Our aim is to reach one of the most beautiful spots of the African Rift, on the way to lake Nakuru. As Nakuru is to far for us, we will try to reach lake Naivasha to spend the night. Shortly before the lake we will cross the rift, and look down into the valley.

We leave the town and soon enter the Nairobi Mombasa highway. In spite of the poor quality of the road, we are able to occasionally reach a sustained speed of 80 km/hour (55 mph) - for us an unheard-of speed. 

The day is mostly one of driving and avoiding potholes. Passing is a risky adventure, because the road has two lanes, one direction for each lane. So passing means facing opposing traffic.

Most traffic consists of trucks. Most old and many very old. So going uphill routinely means going back to second gear.

Regularly trucks brake down, and we pass many who are replacing tired or much more. Usually the axles are resting on stones or concrete, and one driver sits in the shade of the car while someone else is getting a ride to the closest village for parts.

What keeps me on my toes are the small buses, or large vans, called 'matatu' in Kenya. They are packed with people, and often with substantial luggage on top. They are trying to break speed records, and recklessly try to pass any vehicle they can.

Often, while passing a truck, they are faced by a truck coming from the other direction. Then they throw themselves between the truck they are trying to pass, and the vehicle following or in front of that truck, even if there is no room. 

Understandibly, the brake has to be applied vigorously in those situations.

And since these matatus - painted in vivid colors, often with faces of rock stars, and/or religious statements, both Christian and Muslim - continuously pop up out of nowhere, driving is not for the faint of heart.

If either the matatu or the truck about to barrel into the matatu realizes that there is no time or room left to avoid a collision, the first to realize it gives a long light signal. 

Upon this signal, all involved start manoeuvring: the matatu speeds up or slows down, the approaching truck slows down and moves halfway off the tarmac, which usually causes a cloud of dust. The truck being passed may do something similar, and we (usually behind the truck and being too timid to pass) prepare for any of the consequences of any of the actions of the others. 

It makes for a long day of traveling. In Nairobi everything slows down, but the northern bypass is an almost European road where we make good progress.

When we reach the Rift area, the landscape becomes greener, cooler, and more mountenous. 

Suddenly the road starts to climb, and traffic virtually comes to a standstill. Passing is useless, because there are no more open spaces between trucks. 

With the speed of the slowest truck we crawl up hill, which is no problem for us, because the landscape becomes stunning.

While we occasionally pass trucks that didn't make it, the mountain wall on our right becomes vertical, the valley on our left, drops straight down.

Since we drive on the left, we have a fantastic view over the deep valley. And it is with some emotions that I watch the Rift Valley below us.

We move at a snail's pace, and there is no need to stop to take pictures. Also, the valley has dust or humidity, which make pictures not so clear.

By the time the descent starts, we have had our fill, and another couple of hours later, we reach lake Naivasha, where a campground on the water has been recommended by friends.

Remarkable is the number of large 'shadow hall' greenhouses, owned by foreigners. Most are at least several hectares, maybe ten or more. 

This is an area of rose and flower growers. However, the poor quality of the road, and one or more large abandoned greenhouses, give me the impression that the economics of the business model is weak. 

Right outside our tent and the water of the lake is an electric fence, to keep away the hippos. A local gets us firewood, and while the flames are the only light source, Didi and Kari read World of Warcraft, while I finish Maneaters of the Tsavo - a must-read for any Kenya traveller. 

Hoping for some hippo action we fall asleep.