I did not expect Africa to be so cold! Our small sleeping bags are definitely not made for this temperature.  It must be less than 10 C (45 F), and the whole night we keep waking up because of the cold.

Before 8am Moses and a new driver, Isidory, appear. They start replacing the timing belt, but after replacing it, the car still has a problem,  so they will tow it to Keratu. Isidory has an extended Toyota landcruiser (it must be the most popular car in Tanzania) and will take us to the crater. 

The 'new' bathrooms have no hot water, and after a cold shower, I am ready for something warm.

Fortunately Sisi has hot tea and pancakes, and with Moses and Isidory we have breakfast. 

Then we empty our old car and put everything in Isidory's car, and we are on our way. 

The entrance to the crater is only 10 minutes away, and suddenly we are on the edge, and 610 meter (1900 ft) below us extends the flat bottom of the caldera.  

In a wide circumference the remnant of the old volcano circles around the flat plain, with a diameter of 100 kilometer (60 miles).  

I have an emotional moment as I gaze at this giant caldera,  and dedicate a moment to my old geography teacher,  Arjen Brouwer, who created my interest in seeing this caldera so many years ago, when the world was still young. And when a schoolboard was made of shale, and he wrote on it with a piece of chalk. 

It's now, when I get older, that I see more clearly who have been the influential people in my life. 'Uncle Arjen' was definitely one of them. 

The view also gives a staggering idea of how large this mother volcano must have been: the remaining walls of the volcano rise steeply,  but stop 50km before the center of the crater. The whole 100km diameter central part of the volcano has exploded, leaving this flat plain,  with a wildlife concentration that is unique in the world. 

The explosion/eruption must have been of Krakatau proportions and the old Ngorongoro mountain must have dwarfed the current Kilimanjaro. 

Isidory clears the entrance permits, and in an endless row of identical vehicles we descend. Only 4-wheel drive vehicles are allowed.  

The whole day we enjoy the view of countless animals.  Most we have seen already,  but it remains impressive to watch elephants, lions, zebras and gazelles in their natural habitat. 

On the other hand, I also feel like a tourist. There are so many people,  most of them in kaki Safari outfits,  equipped with cameras and lenses like a bazookas, all in the same kaki landcruisers, with raised roofs so you can stand up and have better viewing. 

In Moscow,  our friend Olesya bought a kaki hat for me, that I always wear with sweet memories.  But now for the first time I feel a little embarrassed. I feel I am becoming one of 'them.' 

At a location where twelve lions are resting,  there are maybe 50 landcruisers, causing a traffic jam, and a ranger has to come to regulate the traffic. 

But altogether it is a wonderful experience, and for me the fulfillment of a lifetime desire. 

Which reminds me, that I was talking with a visitor in Serengeti,  and mentioned my interest in finally seeing the Ngorongoro.  Her reply was so fascinating to me: "Wow! So you heard about it before?"

We see many animals,  but are really hoping to see a rhinoceros.  

Most people have a tighter schedule than we do,  and have purchased a 24 hour permit when they entered Ngorongoro yesterday afternoon.  So they must now leave the crater. We are spending two nights here, and have the full day available. 

That is important,  because rhinos sleep during the day, and are invisible in the yellow grass. In the evening they wake up, and as the sun goes down, and most people have left the crater,  all remaining vehicles are scouting for rhinos. There are about 15 in the area. 

With radios the guides communicate, and with binoculars we are scanning the surroundings.  But no luck. 

At six we have to be out of the gate, and at 17:30 still nothing spotted. We need to start moving and are the last vehicle in the park when Isidory sees one. It's on the horizon,  but clearly recognizable, with a young. 

We are very excited and take pictures,  but then we need to race to the gate, where we arrive ten minutes late - just as we catch up with another vehicle,  that is stopped by the guard. This guard, in semi military uniform is shouting at the driver, and only opens the gate after a long tirade.

Isidory immediately wants to follow,  but the guard quickly pushes the gate between the two cars, and Isidory hits it. 

A longer tirade follows. 

Why did you hit the gate? Because you pushed it in front of my driving car. Why did you drive? Because you let the previous vehicle out, and since we arrived at the same time, it is logical that if you let them out, you let us out as well. But you were late! That's because I could not pass the other vehicle on this narrow road. Not true, I saw you watching the rhino! At that moment we had plenty time to return before 6pm, but the other car blocked the road.

On and on it goes, but finally the gate opens and we return to our icy Simba campsite. 

We are very satisfied,  and after a meal of rice porridge we quickly go to bed. 

I stay longer in the large dining place, while all our phones and cameras are charging in a bundle of wires and splitters from a single outlet. 

The night again is bitter cold...