Gillbunya Rockhole, Nullarbor Odyssey Day II
Thursday, March 10, 2016
Cocklebiddy, Western Australia, Australia
We have begun a series of "over-nite" camps as we streak, in an especially gentile way, across this vast, remote and quiet expanse of Australia. Some travel days just seem to pass without issue, highlight or even as part of consciousness. Today was one such as the standout attraction for us was the 90 Mile straight, 146.6klm of excellent road without the slightest curve and hardly an undulation larger than a carpark speed bump. No stops for fuel or food, no photo opportunities, but if you ask us both we really enjoyed the drive for the sameness and immensity of the landscape.
We began with an aim to free-camp somewhere on this stretch to escape any manmade light so as to enjoy another clear sky this night. Slightly more than 220klm from Fraser Range, 40klm before Cocklebiddy, we explored a Wikicamps site about a kilometre or more south from the road. There were two tracks to choose from and it was the second which yielded the camp we wished for with shade from the afternoon heat, yet an open sky a few steps from camp.
It was quiet, a mild breeze from the SE occasionally rushed through the trees, a perfect afternoon to put the feet up, lay back the chair, read, write and contemplate. Normally we write only about the places we have been, how they appear to us, their history, geography, flora and fauna, but not today! This day became a day of reflection for us both aided by the quiet and the remote, isolated setting. So how are we? How has the journey touched us,the people, places and experiences and us living 24/7 next to each other?
Yesterday we celebrated three birthdays, Roscoe's sister Cheronne whom we rang, Evi's youngest Aunt, Irmgard who we could not call in Austria due to the time difference, and Evi's dad, Adi who had passed away whilst walking in the Austrian Alps four years back and this made for a sad somber mood during last evening as we gazed at the stars, and especially the Southern Cross which for us signifies our bond with our lost eldest son, Nick.
Since we lost Nick just two and a half years back we have purposely kept ourselves occupied as we tried to make sense out of abject loss, sense which we have not found as such things appear to have their own rhythm, perhaps it's own unfathomable sense. Also, neither of us have ever discovered the meaning of the elusive "closure", a term which we all use to soothe the pain of others. But we have discovered much, we have changed as a couple and as individuals.
Nick, Adi and Roscoe's dad, Dick, have harshly reminded us of the impermanence and fragility of life, promoting us to take the opportunity when presented. Loss and grief come to all of us in different strengths but you need to find a way to walk with the loss, not be consumed by it. Our travels have been cathartic as every day brought change and sights and experiences which held us both. We could spend so much intense time in peace together because of the distractions readily available. We enjoy long spells in companionable silence as we travel, walk or sit. We have said so much of how we feel, how we deal with the new reality and interact with others as if all is fine in our world....such words between us are now seldom necessary.
So, where has our journey taken us? The colours are brighter, the sounds sweeter, the tastes pointed and smells clearer? Well, some of that as to experience deep tragedy seems to reawaken appreciation of our surrounds. We can now answer the question "so how many children do you have" and say that together we have two boys, and if pressed can admit that of the two there is one we can no longer hug, and the other hugs us! We have learnt to walk beside a dark emptiness but no longer allow it to overwhelm. We still stumble and the emptiness owns us once more for a time, however, normally it is only one of us who needs the hand and heart of the other to find balance again.
Ours has been a journey of an ancient continent, of adventure, discovery, experiences and contentment, also a spiritual, emotional and psychological journey. We have found deep friendship and understanding along the path. It has been and continues to be a journey of healing and life! Why this revelation now? This story has been the guide of our journey and today we left Western Australia which has played such a huge role for us. We now approach the Eastern States and though we have many days and much travel ahead, this story wanted a voice before we find ourselves on familiar ground once more.
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2025-05-23