Refreshed after a good nights sleep, the loud silence here is a forgotten experience for those who dwell in towns and cities. Bacon and eggs, espresso courtesy of the Honda Generator, and a slow drive back through the bush tracks to the Nullarbor Highway.
Soon we arrive at Cocklebiddy, another large Roadhouse, café restaurant, bar, motel and camp area
. For us this is but a fuel and photo stop. Behind the buildings is a really large aviary that house two Wedgetail Eagles, both victims of the road as they have been hit as they took flight in the wrong direction as a vehicle approached.
Further on we come to the Madura Pass where the plateau on which we have been travelling drops suddenly to the coastal plain of Nullabor. Far to the east we trace the escarpments steep slopes as it meanders in and out forming now dry bays where the ocean once ruled. The occasional dry headland highlights the oceans retreat, the beach now over 30klm to the south.
Once down the pass we face many leagues of flat passage where corners in the road appear as a way to keep drivers alert for surely there is no physical reason for diversion. To break up our journey we encounter a "wide load", actually two travelling together both with huge mining dump trucks the width of which force all other traffic off the road. We give way! As they pass we comment that they soon must Mack the ascent up the Madura Pass, sure would hate to be caught behind them then.
Next Roadhouse in Mundrabilla and Evi has offered to buy lunch there just to break up the trip. As usual a large roadhouse but on this day rather quiet which is good as we are hungry. Hamburgers ordered, and being 11:45am the bar is open so it's a coup,e of ciders to wash down the steak burgers with the lot, and they really are excellent
.
Eucla, a further 60klm along, sits where the aforementioned plateau rejoins the coastline and is reached by a short but steep pass. Down on the diminishing coastal flat there are "beach" camps, supposedly, but the roads are rough, the corners tight and they become sandy tracks wending through and around small Sandhills and hardy coastal scrub! The wind has been blasting in from the SE all day and so we opted for the comparable comfort of the Eucla Caravan Park with a view of the coast. Once up the pass we are surprised by the size of this roadhouse that includes a motel of probably 60 rooms, a large restaurant, public bar and lounge bar, large outdoor beer garden and swimming pool as well as extensive campgrounds.
After a basic setup for the night we head back on the lowlands and checkout the old Eucla Telegraph Station and also the supposed campsites. The Telegraph Station is interesting, built from local sandstone and surprisingly large with about 8 rooms. Built a "mile" from the coast where a wharf was built in an island shelters bay. We did start to walk to the wharf however, the wind howled, the sand was soft and it was pretty hot....back to the Patrol in search of campsites (for future reference). As it happened, the campsites were unimpressive, not near the beach, small and on very rough tracks! Another good decision by Team Lotus. For happy hour we wandered up to the bar, but it was pretty quiet this night so a couple of rums and back home for dinner.
Eucla, Nullarbor Odyssey Day III
Friday, March 11, 2016
Eucla, Western Australia, Australia
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