6th - 8th February 2016
 
So, Denmark, 30klm east, we can do this! Mind, we don't break camp until 9:55am just on the checkout time. A quick stop to the Info Centre and we have decided to check out 2 campsites, firstly near Ocean Beach the Big 4 Caravan Park, a group that we rarely bother staying with as they really cater for families and we don't need playgrounds any longer, and then back in town the Rivermouth Caravan Park. As it happened the Big 4 was about 6klm from town so we opted for Rivermouth.

Entering Denmark from both the east and the west you drive downhill to the river, and the town doesn't appear nearly as large as it is. To the north are forested hills and south is the Wilsons Inlet, a lake stretching several kilometres in all directions with a shallow opening onto Ocean Beach when in flood. The town seems to run east/west until you drive around some and discover fingers of communities along the Inlet and into the hills and valleys. The Main Street runs down from the western side to the bridge, on the east riverbank is parkland and the Bowls Club. Our campsite is an easy 2klm walk from the main shopping area, though some of us prefer the luxury and convenience of the Patrol.
 
Denmark is blessed with excellent farmland and natural resources such as the forests, rivers, lakes, bays and beaches and this is reflected in the regional food and wine focus. There are some truly excellent local food producers, butchers, bakers, cafés, wineries and restaurants. On day one we visit the butcher for some of his excellent smoked meats and cuts, and walk away with some local advice for a lunch venue, Estate 807, a small winery and restaurant about 8klm along the Scotsdale Rd tourist drive. While we wend our way through tall forests and lush green pastoral land Evi checks out Estate 807 on TripAdvisor and is concerned regards some of the comments regards poor attitude and service, however, hunger rules and we have no other options immediately in hand, 807 it is.
 
We are greeted by the owner of 807, an affable Swede with a bald head and hearty welcome. Before committing to lunch, there is only one couple in the place, we ask for a wine tasting, not really expecting too much. Swede points out that his Riesling is his pick, followed by the Pinot Noir and Unwooded Chardonnay, so we taste all three and are surprised at the quality of this boutique labels range. That settles it, lunch we must have but Roscoe asks loudly "so we'll stay for lunch, do you back your chef to do justice to the wines", all within earshot of the Chef! Tact! The restaurant occupies a balcony with clear drop blinds and a lovely view over a small valley of grazing bovines. The Chef lives up to his charter and we share an excellent entrée and a main each. The food and wine really made for a great start to Denmark.

http://estate807.com.au/
 
Next stop was the Denmark Cheese & Wine Co another 5klm along the scenic drive, recommended by the Swede. By now we have had enough wine as even the tasting glasses are generous, so we do a cheese tasting instead leaving said business with cheese, sauces and a really huge Gelato each.
 
The natural beauty of this coastal region cannot be understated and we spend a day exploring the western coastline beginning with a 6klm walk along Ocean Beach, then breakfast, then a drive west to visit Waterfall Beach, Mad Fish Bay, Elephant Rocks and Green Pools. Attached photos say more than I can about these spots which are along a 6klm stretch of coast. Mad Fish Bay became our pick both for its natural beauty and lack of people. An open sea channel of about 80 metres width bordered by a low rocky island probably 400 metres long. The middle of the bay is ankle deep in clear water dropping away to a few metres deep at either end. We were to spend the next day here on a small protected enclave of sand alternating reading, walking and swimming.
 
The more frequented spots of Elephant Rocks and Green Pools are truly amazingly beautiful and stunning. Elephant Rocks is reached via a high spur that leads to four or five 10 metre high separate rocks side by side that are elephants, well, rock elephants that is. From the path you view the elephants backs facing towards the ocean, and below are glimpses of deep pools that wend between large smooth rocks, the water turquoise with fine sand floors. A set of steps descends between two huge rocks, then a narrow defile places you on a small beach at the head of a picturesque bay, a few people sun baking and several swimming in the protected inlet that is almost cutoff from the ocean by more large weathered dark rocks.
 
A short walk of a few hundred metres and there is Green Pools, a large series of many shades of green swimming pools separated by smooth rock shelves and boulders. On the east side a long sloping rock shelf almost form an amphitheatre looking a west and north to the sweeping beach. At least a hundred people are on the beach and about another thirty enjoying the cool waters on what is a sunny hot day. Away in the western distance rocky headlands broken by stretches of white sand fade in the ocean mist. The Southern Ocean is quiet and relaxed today and forms a beautiful dark blue backdrop to the Pools.
 
Back on the main road, and a little west is The Toffery & Cidery making, you guessed it, Toffee and Cider. We do a tasting of different ciders from traditional sparkling apple (6%), Apple & Ginger and Apple & Chilli. Evi sights a short lunch menu with Bratwurst & Sauerkraut Rolls, so we order two and a couple of ciders for a casual lunch. The Toffee was good too, however, we are protecting our youngish figures and withstand the temptation to buy a kilo or two.

The day's melt into each other, one evening we attempt to go to the locally recommended Boston Brewery, about 5klm east of town as they have a fundraiser for the recent bushfires and feature a few local bands from 4pm. We say attempt as when we arrive just before 5pm the place is full and they are turning many, many vehicles away, ours included. We do return a few evenings later for a sundowner, a hearty cider for Evi and a pint of a dark, chocolate and spicy beer in a European style. The place deserves its accolades.
 
At some time we slipped in a lunch at the well rated Lake House, a winery and restaurant in the hills behind Denmark accessed by a gravel road and tucked into the folds of surrounding forests and farmland. Named so for a large lake on the property, the restaurant and tasting house sits alongside the lake with outside terraces and pergolas around its rim. The place is renouned for its Platters so we have a look at the menu and select a Platter of local made dips, cheese and chorizo accompanied by their homemade bread, so we retire to the tasting room to select our wine. The wines like so many in this region surprise us with their freshness and distinctive earthy bush flavours. We keep it simple and opt for a Chardonnay which though quite buttery has only slight tones of oak which suit us and the meal very nicely. The place is really pretty, romantic even without the modern refinements found in our cities. The pavers are not quite level, the furniture shows its age, the vines frowning in the pergolas a little wild, but with a view over the lake to the forest, tasty food and delicious wine...we're where you'd like to be!