25th February - 2nd March
 
We find ourselves once more in an unexpected place. This morning we set off from Stokes Inlet, headed 7klm back to the Southern H'way then meant to go to Quagi Beach, the turnoff for which was no more than 10klm east. We missed it! We were a little distracted as we were receiving calls and emails of a business nature (yes, we still do that sometimes) and the overshoot was fortuitous as we did need to print out some documents to sign and post, so, here we are in Esperance a few days early.
 
A town of over 15,000 people, Esperance is a commercial hub for the south eastern corner of WA. As we will discover you may find practically any service you require in town. Stretched along a wonderful coastline of bays and rocky headlands, the town has a relaxed low key feel though at times it is obviously a busy place. With 4 large caravan parks, motels, resorts and a multitude of holiday houses and apartments we are thankful we have arrived in low season. We have been given a great campsite with views over Esperance Bay, a vast stretch of water with so many islands across it that it almost looks landlocked from our camp. The islands are part of an archipelago consisting of over 300 rocky islands ranging from the size of a house block to towering mounds of solid rock on islands several kilometres long.
 
The township is nestled into the north west corner of this huge bay, sitting behind a shipping harbour which provides wharfs for loading woodchip, wheat and shipping containers. Though a small port it constantly has 2 ships being loaded, often 3. Adjacent is a small boat harbour that docks many private and commercial fishing boats, cruisers and yachts. On a Saturday the Yacht Club runs a regatta for all class of sailing craft from tiny Sabre's to 50 foot yachts that splash colour over the blue waters into the far distance. We enjoyed an ale at Taylor's Bar & Café with a view over both harbour and the sailing course for small craft.
 
A tour along Ocean Drive that heads off to the west of town then rounds to pass the Pink Lake to the north was full of interest and numerous photo opportunities, some serious editing and deletions was in order. Over high headlands then descending to beaches long and short, always with a view of the multi coloured waters to our south. A bike and walking trail extends some 14klm west parallel to the drive, we promise ourselves we will rent some push bikes and make a day of it, maybe!
 
Travelling the Ocean Drive we stop at West Beach, Chapmans Point, Blue Haven Beach, Salmon Beach, Twilight Bay and Observatory Point. Our favourite beach is Twilight Beachnestled into a hooked headland about 8klm west of town, the bay is protected by both the headland and a large elongated rock islet somewhat in the shape of a aquatic dinosaur laying half above the water, and the water so clear you can easily see the bottom of the rock as it disappears into the sandy bottom many metres below and 80 metres offshore. The islet, the headland and the beach form a swimming pool of football field proportions and it is here we spend a very relaxing day swimming, lazing, reading and then we are joined by Ben and Jan for a picnic lunch before we resume our leisure.

Eastwards towards the middle of Twilight Bay Roscoe found a surf break working quite well off a bank about 100 metres offshore. 41° on the beach but all the surfers wore full wetsuits, steamers, and Roscoe followed the style. Hot head and frozen feet were the order of the day, however, a 2 hour surf session proved a great tonic for the boy.

After arriving in town we needed a Justice of the Peace to witness some signatures and were directed to a Financial Planner in town, a bloke named Jim Finnerty! In Jims meeting room Evi picked up a book from the table, "A Pleasant Stroll To Everest" by......Jim! This began a conversation that led to us buying his book, signed of course, and Jim invited us to join him the next morning for a surprise 4WD trip, a short one, to see and do something that tourists didn't experience! Ok, and at 8am Jim picked us up, drove about 5klm to a beach entrance then about another 5klm up the beach at speed! We pulled up at the eastern end where the beach hooked north a little and finished in a steep rock slope of a huge rock, small headland thing! Jim stopped, put the 4WD in low range and up we went scraping the rear bar on the beach as we ascended. The view from the top was worth Evi's white knuckles during the climb.

A few minutes east of Esperanc is a small boat harbour, a couple of finger marinas, wharfs for larger fishing boats and about 4 seafood processing companies. Accessed by a narrow channel with rocky walls either side, it opens into a man made bay of a few hectares with sandy bottom, a wide beach on the south side and the water is crystal clear. We came here fishing one afternoon but our luck was not in that day, not even when we burly'd them up with a few ciders and beers. Sitting, drink in hand, line out, gazing over the waters we were startled when a large seal surfaced a few metres in front of us. It did the circuit of the harbour and headed back to sea, it had also discovered no fish dinner here today!

Sunday lunch and we have arranged to meet Ben and Jan, and Richard and Liz at Taylor's Bar & Café for lunch. The day is hot, about 40°, and lunch sounds like a good way to spend the time. The Café is in an old Harbourside residence, possibly the Harbour Masters house' and we are counting on some cooler breeze off the water, sadly the wind veers northward and is like a fan forced oven. Ours is an interesting bunch of Nationalities and backgrounds. Ben and Jan are English but have lived and worked in the Middle East for many years and though on a 2 year tour of Australia they actually live in Cypress. Richard and Liz are Scots who have lived here for many years now, Richard was sent to Australia by the company he worked for and ended up the CEO. Evi is Austrian, and we all know her background, leaving Roscoe as the only Aussie at the table, again!

The lunch was great fun and didn't finish till near 5pm when we removed ourselves to reconvene under our awning back in camp for several more drinks and nibbles for dinner. Esperance, we'll be back!