A few highlights await today's journey, the Border Village (read Roadhouse), the Treeless Plain and the Head of Bight Whale Centre. Ultimately we will travel over 250klm through landscapes we love, but really there is no more I can say about them. The Border Village, where you pass from WA to SA, is a set of gates and a quarantine station for those travelling into WA as there are restrictions on transportation of fresh fruit and vegetables and honey. On the SA side is yet another large roadhouse with a large statue of a Kangaroo (of course).

The Treeless Plane sort of creeps up on you as the continuos forest becomes isolated stands then more scattered until you realise that they have now disappeared and the horizon is an open line broken only by metre high bush and the occasional undulation in the vast coastal plane . Along the Treeless Plane we stop briefly at the Nullabor Roadhouse and are confronted by several hot rods and vintage cars each towing old caravans or camping trailers. They provide dazzling colour in their reds, yellows, greens and electric blue of both vehicle and trailer.

Not far east of the roadhouse is a turnoff to the Head of Bight Whale Centre where, during the winter months, the Southern Right Whales come to birth. Wrong time for us, however, reports were it was still a must see. The complex is very modern and provides much information on the whale migration, other sealife and fact about the coast. A boardwalk extends about 100mts from the Centre to the ocean cliffs where it then runs both east and west to different viewing platforms and lookouts. It is spectacular in both landscape beauty and manmade construction, well worth the visit.

We had intended to camp at the entrance to the NP where the Whale Centre is based, however, this still being the Treeless Plane the gravel camping area provide no shelter from today's insistent 30kph wind. From a small rise we could see trees in the distance and so continued about 22klm till we found a bush camp sheltered by a forest of tangled trees that nestled between two low ridges. We drove through a carpark with garbage bins and picnic tables and back about another 30 metres and found a flat clearing just perfect for our rig, and so sheltered you could light a match. This was part of the Yalata Aboriginal Reserve and it was obvious by the vehicle tracks that it was a popular camping spot for Nullarbor travellers.