The story of a day trip to Cape Le Grand.....
 
Leaving the Seafront Camp at Esperance at 8am we headed not many kilometres east till we turned onto a road leading to a 30klm stretch of beach taking us to Cape Le Grand, a large NP on a broad peninsula. The trip by road is almost 60klm making this beach jaunt an attractive scenario. To begin the beach is narrow and we are driving over "rack", the name for piled up dry seaweed and sea grasses that lay up to a metre deep along this protected coastal stretch.

After 3klm the rack gives way to sand, however, today it is not so hard packed as expected and we travel along in 3rd gear for much of the journey. Half way and in the distance we see some activity on the beach though what it is we have no idea. Soon it becomes apparent that 2 dogs are excitedly running up and down the beach, and it appears that a third is in the water. As we approached the 2 dogs on the beach ran helper skelter for the bush, leaving in the water.....a kangaroo, a large roo that was chest deep in the salt water and by the looks of it terrified and possibly injured. The dogs were obviously wild and had been looking to the kangaroo for dinner, unfortunately there was nothing we could do as the roo was not coming to shore while we were there, and was too big to approach in its state so we drove off and left nature to her sometimes harsh way.
 
First activity on our agenda, Frenchmans Peak, a pyramid of rock that rises several hundred metres above the surrounding coastal plain which is capped by a hawk head like dome with a huge tunnel weathered through it allowing a rough picture framed view of nearby Hellfire Bay. Even approaching it looks a little otherworldly and climbing to the summit reveals a huge landscape carpeted by the thickest coastal scrub, punctuated by other less inspiring huge stone outcrops. From here you see the shape of Cape Le Grand and its stunning bays and beaches broken by solid rock headlands. We spend a half hour sitting quietly above the tunnel, above all the surrounding horizon stretching so many kilometres in all directions. Possibly not a spiritual place but an outlook and sense of vastness which leaves you moved.
 
Nearby Hellfire Bay is a scalloped bowl of ocean with pure white sandy beach stretching about 400 metres in a concave arch between solid rock slopes that fall at a 45° angle to the ocean, green water waves running along their length to finally break upon the beach. After our excretions on Frenchmans Peak this is a good spot for a refreshing, very refreshing swim. We enter the bay from the eastern side and find a deeper pool where the beach has been scalloped against the sloping rock. Here is little wave action and the cold water washes away the sweat as we enjoy such clear, clean water.
 
A further 8klm east stands Lucky Bay that is normally the site of one of the best NP campgrounds you will find. The road approaches from a high ridge and swinging around a left curve you are greater by what appears to be a very large pool many kilometres across, ringed by the pure white beaches prevalent in this area. Some waves pushing through the centre of the bay belies the pool idea, however, it is a stunning scene. Carved into the lower slopes are the many camping sites of the Lucky Bay Campground that is currently under renovation, upgrades and extension. By the look of proceedings the park will be open in a month or so, too late for us unfortunately as Evi has been looking forward to camping here since we returned to WA. In the day carpark and upon the beach are possibly 20 4WD's enjoying a day at the beach.
 
Lucky Bay was named by Matthew Flinders whose ship took refuge tucked into the western pocket to avoid heavy weather and big Southern Ocean swells whilst the effected repairs. In all they spent only 3 days in this idyllic place, bet they had misgivings about hitting the ocean again.

We continue our drive east to Rossiter Bay, obviously a very poor cousin to Hellfire and Lucky, Rossiter is a vast indent in the coast and though spotted with many islands, the beach is covered by weed and driftwood, not so attractive which is why we find ourselves here alone and of short duration. We did spot Cape Arid in the far distance, the site of our next camp in the coming days.
 
Our new best mate Jim Finnerty has recommended that we call into the Condingup Tavern for lunch, a recommendation confirmed by fellow travellers, so off we set for a 45klm journey north and east from Rossiter's passing back through Cape Le Grand then grazing properties and finally through the vast plantation forests which fuel the wood-chip industry here. Finally we arrive at Condingup, a very small town of about 110 people, apparently,with a Tavern of repute which is also the petrol station and General Store for the town. It's 1:30pm and the carpark is almost deserted, the pub built of a combination of corrugated iron, rammed earth, brick and local timber is rustic but appealing.
 
We enter the bar with its very high ceilings, a timber bar to seat about 12 stools and a huge fireplace adjacent. A young lady, Rachae, is behind the bar and she runs the place. Roscoe introduces us as "mates of Jim" and we settle in for a Snapper Fish Burger and a Chicken Parmigiana with fries and salad washed down with large ciders. Jim was correct, a good way to break our fast, and an excellent finish to a good day out!