Day 21 - Walking the Path of the Gods, Positano

Friday, April 19, 2013
Positano, Campania, Italy
This was our last day in Positano and Rena had one more activity to tick off her bucket list; the 'Sentiero degli dei' (path of the gods), which is a goat track turned tourist walk between Nocelle high above Positano and Bomerano, high above Praiano.

We were up early for us to catch the Bus to Nocelle . The time always seems to disappear before a scheduled departure and before we knew it we were rushing out the door to the bus stop, 50m from our villa where we waited 20 min for the bus. The first mix up of the day, Rob had misunderstood the advice when purchasing tickets earlier; the bus was due at our stop 10 min after Positano square not 10 min before. The second, was to leave the map behind, not a good plan when heading for a walk in the mountains; however we understood this was a well trodden and signposted track.

Where we were heading was shrouded in cloud and at first we weren't sure that we would see anything; might even be above the clouds like real gods. We got off the bus at Nocelle, which at 430m was cooler than Positano at sea level, and were met by a man and his donkeys, obviously the ubiquitous little three wheel trucks were no use at this altitude.

We made our way through the village and found the start of the track. The walk of the gods was spectacular in the views it offered weaving its way in and out of deep reentrants and over and around bluffs. At times it was easier and indeed necessary to keep your eyes on the track at your feet, so as not to trip or look down the sheer drops to our right.

It wasn't until later that day, when discussing our trip with others, that we realised we started the walk from the wrong end, against the slope and into the morning sun . That didn't really detract from our experience, but it did explain why most of the people and groups we met on the track were headed the other way. What did take the shine off our experience was the decision to take the fork to Praiano rather Bomerano; again we were under the misguided belief that there were no buses to/from Bomerano and without our map we didn't realise how severe the drop was from the fork in the track at 578m to Praiano at 257m. The going was pretty much straight down and stone steps most of the way; also curious, we met no one coming up the other way.

By the time we reached the edge of Praiano we had been walking over three hours and our knees and ankles had just about had it, but there were more steps down through the town. We found a bus stop just in time to see the bus depart, so a decision was made to call Stefania, who looks after the villa, to organise a lift from her neighbour Umberto. It was a very quiet ride back to the villa.

The adventure was over, we had made it, although I can't say we felt much like gods. Hot showers and siesta for the remainder of the afternoon. Allan and the girls bused down to Positano beach for a gelato. As they got off the bus back to the villa, Rena and Rob got on the same bus, heading for the beach for a drink, some time to themselves and to book our evening meal. We joined them having cocktails about an hour later.

We had our last meal in Positano at La Tre Sorelle (The Three Sisters) right on the beach. It was a fantastic meal and all six of us struggled with very full stomachs, followed by a 500m uphill climb to the bus stop.
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Comments

Ann
2013-04-23

Really enjoying your blogg of all your adventures...and envious as well! We've had very heavy rain through most of the country so I think we can safely say the drought is over so much so that there has been quite a bit of flooding. EnjoyParis and the birthday celebrations

Jan
2013-04-23

Absolutely not for octogenarians. - not this one anyway. The vertical views are magnificent, but I would have to be blindfolded to walk a dozen yards.

2025-05-22

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