Capri, Campania, ItalyToday will rank as one of the experiences of our lives. Yesterday was one of the best days of spring, which had come late to most of Europe, including the Amalfi coast so the locals tell us. So we decided to book a private boat from 'Lucibello', from the beach at Positano, for today.
The day started fine but with high cloud. We joined our boat around 9.30 and met our Captain, Salvatori, who advised the sun would come out in the afternoon. He outlined his plan for our trip to Capri and suggested we book a taxi tour around the island that he could arrange and we agreed. Feeling like royalty, we set off for the half hour crossing to Capri in our private boat, 'Frela', that could cruise at 28 knots and came with towels, refreshments, toilet and plenty of room. The boat was not cheap, but as it was its first outing this year we got a 30% cash deal and worth very euro.
When we arrived at the port in Capri our open-top taxi and driver Alessandro was waiting for us. Alessandro took us all over the island dropping us at the main square to browse shops then over 'mama mia' road to Anacapri, so called because of the shear drop to the sea. Alessandro said mama mia road was built for the tourists and took 15 years. Prior to the road, the only pass between Capri and Anacapri was by a 2000 step path that his grandmother - still living at 99 - and her generation would traverse up to four times a day.
Alessandro encouraged us to take the chairlift to Monte Solaro, the highest point on the island, at 589m.
Susan, the girls and I took the chair to the top, while Rob and Rena waited for us in a bar. Alessandro said the sun would come out and the view spectacular; he was right on both counts.
After Monte Solaro we returned to Salvatori and Frela for a cruise around the the whole island, stopping at the Grotta Azura (blue cave) - a bit underwhelming for the twelve euro pp price; although the singing oarsmen were characters. We stopped to toast our trip while we waited a clear passage through the famous Faraglioni Arch.
We stopped again in a sunny spot that was clear of jellyfish for a swim. In 10m depth, the water temp was a shock at first but became bearable, but not pleasant. It took Allan to dive in to encourage the girls in.
It was now mid afternoon and Salvatori suggested we have lunch at the beachside restaurant we passed on the way over to Capri.
Ristorante La Conca del Sogno is in a private little bay near Nurano, on the western end of the Sorento peninsular. What a culinary experience that was. Again we felt like royalty having the place to ourselves, except for another party that departed by boat midway through our two hour three course meal; seafood antipasti, followed by a local pasta and seafood ragu, then zucchini and basil spaghetti, washed down with local vino bianco and finished with ferno branco (fennel digestive liqure). PS the bill was quite expensive.
After a wonderful day we quietly motored back to Positano after circling Li Galli, a small group of rocky islands just off Positano that were once owned by by Russian balet dancer Rudolph Nureyev.
After such a day we couldn't face the 720 step climb to our villa, Torre Quattroventi, so the girls caught a taxi from Positano square and Rob and Allan, who could not fit in the taxi, caught a bus. Home to a quite night blogging and no need for another meal.
Mike
2013-04-17
What a fantastic day, looks like a lot of fun - I'm green with envy!!
Sarah Cahill
2013-04-18
Looks like you are having a fantastic time. Shame you can't bring us a doggie bag, the food sounds amazing.
Jan
2013-04-18
So glad the weather is warmer. Very envious of the Capri outing - as Rena commented the Italian drivers are crazy, but gorgeous . I don't envy you all those steps, but the view must be fantastic, and the exercise good to burn off all those extra calories.
Pam Glubb
2013-04-18
Brings back memories of our visit to Capri ..all looks fabulous..love reading your blog x p