From east to west Montana is so huge that driving across it
feels a bit daunting. I like to think of it in stretches with landmarks as
stops along the way. Sturgis to Bozeman is probably about six hours on I-90 and
about the same on the slightly more direct route we took across the plains and Northern
Cheyenne reservation. Leg 1 Sturgis to Little Bighorn, Leg 2 Little Bighorn to
Billings, Leg 3 Billings to Bozeman.
Little Bighorn National Historic Site is famous as the
location of Custer’s Last Stand, the spot where in 1876, the year of the nation’s
centennial, General George Armstrong Custer and around 200 of his troops and
allied Indian scouts were killed on the battlefield in the most famous event of
the Indian Wars in the West. Custer apparently had some prior successes in
battles but was known for his bravado. He was likely also not very intelligent,
having graduated last in his class at West Point. I’ve been to Little Bighorn
several times but thought we’d make a short stop along the way home for Rodrigo
to see one more important piece of American and Western history.
One misconception is that the battle was
purely one of Whites against Indians. The reality is that several tribes,
including the Crows whose homeland and current reservation surround Little
Bighorn, were allied with the U.S. forces against their traditional tribal
enemies. Some people might call it a bow to political correctness, but I find
the Indian Memorial at Little Bighorn to be appropriate and tasteful. That’s
not to say that will stay the case under future Democrat presidential
administrations promoting DEI ideology, but for the time being there are no
good guys and bad guys in the stories told at Little Bighorn.
Between Hardin and Billings there is (or was) a small
settlement named Toluca. Since Rodrigo is from Toluca in Mexico, we took a
little detour to explore his hometown’s Montana namesake. It seems there are a few Tolucas across
America, the best known of which is Toluca Lake neighborhood near Universal
Studios in Los Angeles. Alas, nothing
remains of the one in Montana despite it still appearing in my Gazetteer state
road atlas.
It looks like it was a stop on the railroad that has long since
faded into oblivion. At least we got to take a backroad into Billings as an
alternative to the interstate.
“I want to see Billings!” Rodrigo exclaimed. “Why” There isn’t much there,” I responded.
But Billings is the biggest city in the state and Rodrigo is quite fascinated
with Montana. There are, in fact, a few
things to see in Billings that I have checked out, but ZooMontana and the Moss
Mansion didn’t really fit into a short late afternoon stop. Maybe another time.
We drove up to the Rim Drive on the northern escarpment overlooking the
Yellowstone River Valley for a good view of the city. We then went downtown and, of course, found a
brewery for a drink. Billings has many of them.
After dinner at Huhot, an AYCE Mongolian Grill chain, it was another two
hours drive home in the dark. All-in-all, it was a great nine days and 1,800
miles on the northern plains of America’s outback.
2025-05-23