Deadwood - The Restored Wild West

Monday, October 07, 2024
Deadwood, South Dakota, United States
I believe this is my fifth trip to South Dakota since I first took a trip to the West in 1988. I have been in South Dakota numerous other times en route to other places, but this is the fifth time I am actually touring around the Black Hills and Badlands regions in the western part of the state. However, the most I think I ever saw of Deadwood, the region’s historic mining town, was likely just driving through. I am quite certain I did not previously stop and look around at what there is to see.
Once a gold mining town and one of the wildest towns of the Old West, famous as the place Wild Bill Hickok met his demise, since 1989 the town has been best known as a gaming destination. It was in 1988 that the state’s voters passed a constitutional amendment allowing for gambling in the state with the first casinos opening the following year. I’m not much of a gambler, so the gaming is not much of an appeal to me, but certainly the historic town, now largely and attractively renovated, should have attracted me for a visit on my previous trips. Well, the good thing about travel is that there is always something new to see.
In picking accommodation for Deadwood, I chose the historic Franklin Hotel in the heart of town, very atmospheric and only a few dollars more for the night than less historic and conveniently located places on the outskirts of town.  The room was fine, but the corridors felt old and kind of spooky.
I imagine Deadwood is pretty busy during the summer, but Deadwood was rather dead on Sunday night and Monday in early October.  And dang, we just missed the Oktoberfest held that weekend. Deadwood is full of small kitschy attractions like a visitable former brothel and a mine tours. However, most of the small museums and a historic home were closed on Monday. We contented ourselves browsing tee shirt shops, tastings at a brewery and a distillery, a lunch of bison burgers, and wandering around admiring the late 19th century architecture. Afterwards we stopped at Mount Moriah Cemetery, Deadwood’s own Boot Hill over looking the town where such famous Wild West characters as Calamity Jane and Wild Bill Hickock are buried.
A few miles up the hill from Deadwood lies its sister town, Lead. Whereas Deadwood has become a real tourist town, Lead is a more typical mining town, site of the Homestake Mine which produced more gold than any other mine in the country by the time it closed in 1989. Lead’s Main Street is less lively than Deadwood’s but has similar architecture, a mining museum, memorial to all the miner’s who died in accidents over the years, and an overlook to the open pit mine. In my opinion, it’s like a mini version of Montana’s Butte.
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