'Back O' Bourke'...or West to Bourke

Wednesday, October 08, 2014
Bourke, New South Wales, Australia
We left the Opal Caravan Park before 9am and the plan was for Peter to give his leg another dip in the Artesian Bath, but there were so many cars down there, we gave it a miss. It was about 80kms to Walgett, continuing on the 'Castlereagh Highway', which hadn't improved over the last few days!

We stopped for a photo of 'Stanley the Castlereagh Highway Icon', that was initiated by John Murray, a Lightning Ridge artist. John's artwork is very unique and 'Stanley' is no exception. He stands 18 metres tall and has been made from three Volkswagens, two satellite dishes and  some recycled steel from the Dubbo Police Station, has been used to construct his legs. Willing locals joined with Tim Parsons, the welder and 'Stanley' provided all the ingredients for the perfect blokes adventure.  It took four years to put together and as the sun went down on a September evening in 2012, the sculpture landed on his feet.  There were a few beers that went down too!  They plan for more sculptures on the 'Castlereagh Highway'. 

We didn't make a right turn at 'Stanley' and head out to the three fossicking fields. It was a consideration last night, but after some internet research and more overnight thinking by my 'Keen Fossicker', he decided to go as we had originally planned and head to Bourke. There are three pubs in the scrub out there, the 'Mulga Rush Mullock' heaps and the town of 'Cumborah'.  Maybe one day it will become part of another visit to the area.

Walgett has two fairly big rivers on either side of the town. We crossed the 'Namoi' on the northern side and the 'Barwon' on the west, as we headed out of town on the 'Kamilaroi Highway'. Peter had read where they actually have a fishing competition in Walgett and he thought it was this time of the year. If so, you would certainly be trying to catch a fish in very muddy rivers.  Both rivers have very little water in them. There was quite a large grain receival facility in Walgett, but we didn't see any cropping north of the town, only very dry grazing country.

We stopped for morning tea about 50 kms from Walgett. I think it was possibly the spot that Kevin and Val camped the night at, in May 2013. I remember Val sending a text message with a photo of their camp spot. Kevin had a big fire going as it was going to be 0 degrees that night. Val fancied pasties for tea, so the Thermi would have been out and the generator going. I remember getting the map out, thinking "Where on earth is Walgett"? Now we have actually seen Walgett!  It was a very pleasant 21 degrees for our morning tea stretch. 

The sign on the road told us we were in the 'NSW Outback' and this country is every bit of  what one pictures 'The Outback' to be!   There are lots of emus in groups on the sides of the road. The countryside is very flat and very dry!

Our next stop was the town of 'Brewarrina', which is 100 kms from Bourke and a halfway stop between Walgett and Bourke. The entry sign said 'Stop a While. You will be Surprised'. So we did! Things that surprised us were:
  • The Visitor Centre has been built on the side of the Sporting Recreational building, rather than the Shire Office.
  • Brewarrina was the meeting place for aboriginal groups to come together and spear fish on the Barwon River.
  • The 'Aboriginal Fish Traps' on the river have been Heritage listed.
  • On the 1st July 2014, the taking or consuming of alcohol in the Memorial Park in the Main Street of the town, was prohibited until 30th June 2018. Our surprise was the 4 year time frame.
We really liked the 'Shearing Sculpture' at the front of the Shire offices and the stones that had been placed there to commemorate the dedicated service to the Brewarrina community of Dr Lopes. The five stones represented the Dr, a mother and her children.  Dr Lopes was the Dr in Brewarrina from 1953 until 1985.  We arrived at Bourke about 2.30pm and decided to stay at the 'Mitchell Caravan Park' on the east of the town.   The other option was to go 7kms out to the 'Kidman Tourist Resort' on the road to Cunnamulla in Queensland.  The Mitchell Park is quite nice with big shady trees and a lawned area in the middle of the park.  The bays are around the side and anyone with pets is in the bays closest to the highway.We decided on the tourist attractions we would like to do on Thursday and went out to the 'Back O' Bourke Exhibition Centre' to book them.  We spent an hour going through the Exhibition Centre and will finish it off on Thursday.  Our ticket lasts for 2 days.To complete yet another full day we did a little grocery shopping at the one and only IGA store.  As we went to walk into the supermarket this little fella came up and said "I need to inform you.  I do need to inform you!  You shouldn't have come in that gate.  That's the entry one over there".  He had a funny little accent and was so serious.  Wouldn't have been much older than about seven.  We have joked about the woman on the car navigator, keeping her eye on Pete if he goes over the speed limit.   Now a little boy in Bourke has also got his eye on him!  The supermarket had a big fence around the carpark and big gates partly obscuring the entry and exit signs.  That's why we didn't see the 'Exit' sign.  The Caravan Park has an electric fence around it.  We are in Bourke!We went down to the 'Port of Bourke' on the Darling River.  It looks like it is the original wharf and you could just imagine the paddle steamers working on the river, the barge behind loaded with bales of wool.  We also did a quick drive around the town and found a large mural that had been done by the quirky artist John Murray, from Lightning Ridge.  It is so good!  We loved the hole in both blokes trousers and the fact you can see the outback through the hole!  And we both agree with the slogan under the mural 'Bourke Gateway to the Real Outback'!
Tonight is the eclipse of the moon and in Bourke we have a lovely clear sky.  I have been in and out of the caravan taking a snap with the zoom lens.  I reckon every dog in Bourke is barking though.  It was a great eclipse.  Hope it was as good in WA too.  18 photos
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