Orange Walk, Orange Walk District, Belize
Orange Walk
checking
in at the hotel
With
GPS we find the Hotel very fast and by accident park right in front
of it. We book our tour for tomorrow and get explained on how to go
to the cabin: left – at the stop light left – at the 2nd
stop light left nearly to the end of the road and then left at the
Gran del Metzico (maybe I should write it down). Then into the first
supermarket where we are not very impressed: no lactose free milk, no
bread... so we find the 123 Supermarket and there they have a
bakery!!!! we are happy and then we are on the way to our cabin.
Our
Riverside Cabin
we
arrive at the New river and drive along into the resort, Mon &
Tues the restaurant is closed, that means it is nice and quite. We
find the parking and we find the cabin – ok we do have to walk a
bit from the car and after a short night and a long day: it is now 5
pm!!! we make a coffee and sit a bit at the river and decide let’s
have early supper and then early relaxing in the bed – so that
tomorrow we are ready for a big day!!! Supper on our porch until Gine
has the feeling the Mosquitos are here. Shower and we feel better to
get organized and then feel a bit like we are on vacation.
And
for coffee we sit at the river and hope we see some birds or a
crocodile..
Wild
Animals??
and we discover only one more person is at the moment staying here and we learn: the guard got the other day attacked with a machette and has a lot of stitches, also if you go outside when it is dark then bring a flashlight – there are crocodiles: big ones!!! also don’t leave food outside because yesterday she had tons of red ants in her room and the suitcase and everywhere and we don’t want that!!
and we discover only one more person is at the moment staying here and we learn: the guard got the other day attacked with a machette and has a lot of stitches, also if you go outside when it is dark then bring a flashlight – there are crocodiles: big ones!!! also don’t leave food outside because yesterday she had tons of red ants in her room and the suitcase and everywhere and we don’t want that!!
Getting
Ready
here
it gets dark early – that means we have to get up early. Our alarm
clock will go off at 7 am... and then the sun is out and we are ready
for coffee on the river.
On
the New River
- our guide was super nice and explained us a lot – so we learned a lot and saw even more.
- The New river is one of the few rivers who runs south to north
- the river starts at the laguna (that is where the ruins are) from an underwater spring and is the largest river in Belize and goes into the Caribbean all up north at Corozal
- At the shallowest it is still 3 ft deep
- once it was in parts quite narrow, so that the Spanish could go up with their big ships they widened it and made a “new river”
- By the way we are here in the Northern lowlands, there are no hills here and it is one of the thinnest populated areas of Belize
We
started out with going back to town to pick up another family and
then we were heading south towards the ruins, it took us over 2
hours, because there were so many spots and so many things to
discover:
Birds:
ok we saw a lot and I really can’t remember all the names, but
there is one white one which is close to extinction, because the
British lady’s wanted those beautiful feathers on their hats, than
there is the Heron which is here from Nov – April and then migrates
back to Canda (maybe we will see one of them), the snake bird which
is called like that because it so long and thin it looks like a snake
and lets not forget the Jesus Bird – because it looks like it can
walk on water
Crocodiles:
we saw a few young ones which didn’t mind us and the big ones they
were gone before you could even look. By the way we got told, that we
can go for a swim, because the eco system is here so great, that the
crocodiles are not aggressive.. Only during Mating season around
Christmas and when they hatch in April should you be careful,
otherwise you can go for a swim and unless you don’t touch one by
accident they won’t bite you
Cactus
Snake: ok this is a super cool plant, it is a cactus and winds its
way around the tree like a snake – by the way it does not kill the
tree!! Once you know about it, you see it a whole lot.
Sugar
mill: we learned that sugar is the 2nd largest money
maker (after tourism) and we came by one of the big sugar mills
working and soon after we came to a Rum distillery (where they use up
the molasses from the sugar factory). And what is really funny: right
near the rum distillery is an Rehab center :-) good luck waking up
every morning with the smell of rum in the air – and no wonder we
see a sugar mill we are in the middle of sugar cane country
Ship
yard: this is the name of a town because the Mennonites living
here were so talented in repairing the barges... and there is still
no electricity, they have a lot of kids and do nearly all the farming
in Belize: you eat veggies, fruits, rice, cheese, milk products –
guess what it comes from the Mennonites.
- it’s a dutch anabaptist movement named after Menno Simons
- they are against military service and moved a lot from Switzerland – Prussia – Russia – Canada., then during WWI restiriction of teaching German and Anti-German settlements made them move to Mexico, and with the Caste war they moved to British honduras in 1958
- they were welcome because they were eager to work and clear the jungle for agriculture
- Today 8 % of Belizean are Mennonites and they are producing 90 % of all veggies, milk and milk products, eggs, chicken of the country
- as per our guide they have the best land and they do not pay any taxes for it
- they still have their own German schools and don’t mingle – each families has a lot often over 15 children
- Today there are some more traditional Mennonites and the progressive ones: driving SUV’s, using the cell phones
The
orange iguanas: we saw big green and even bigger (up to 5 ft long)
orange iguanas: they are orange because at the moment it is mating
season.
And
then it’s 11.30 and we arrive at the ruins – the last stretch got
a bit fresh, guess that is because it is the cold season here.
The Lamanai Maya Ruins
we
learned that 20 years ago only 20-30 people a year visited the ruins,
today its a lot more and before all the cruise ships and tours arrive
we start out and we also learn a lot about the Mayans and Lamanai:
- when it was in it’s peak there were 2 Mill Mayans living in today’s Belize – today the population is 350.000 with Mayans being one of the minorities
- it is one of the oldest continuously occupied Mayan site from 1500 BC to 1680 AD, they think that the Mayan survived here so long, because they had water, the new river in Mayan was called the river of foreigners because foreigners came via the river for trading – today the river brings the tourists
- Lamanaii means submerged crocodile – and this is one of the few sites still going by original name
- it is the 2nd largest Maya site in Belize
- when the Spanish came in 1544 they built 2 churches using stone from the existin gMaya structures, they still found a thriving Mayan community. The Maya never accepted the Spanish and a rebellion in 1640 left the Spanish Mission deserted and the Mayans burned the church
- the Lamanai ruins were excavated from 11974 – 1986 by David Pendergastof the Royal Ontario Museum, he investigated 70 out of the 730 structures
- did you know that they don’t even use shovels, often they use spoons
- the Belize Goverment initiated the TDP = Tourist Development Project as a part to restore archaeological sites for tourism: they restored the Jaguar temple, ball court, Mask Temple and high temple – they also added the visitor center and picnic area
- most of this site is still unrestored – and yes we did walk between a lot of mounds and over a lot of stones
So where did the Mayans
come from?
- They were one of the most dominant Mesoamerican civilizations – so where did they come from? The earliest Mayan settlements started around 1800 BC: which started the Preclassic
- Did the Mayan’s emerged when the Olmecs disappeared?
- It started with agricultures and farming villages -which slowly became towns and city states
- Otherwise it is a mystery – but there are a lot of speculations
- they estimate that the first humans occupied Belize around 10.000 - 7.000 BC
The
black orchid: did you know the
black orchid is always in bloom and that is why it is Belize’s
national flower and yes we did see one.
Jaguar
temple: up from the dock after a quick overview board we go up a
few steps and there we are on a huge plaze with a big temple: the
Jaguar Temple from 500 AD: because on each side of the steps you can
see the Jaguar masks. And lucky for us, no one there and then we
climb up all the way to the top – ok today’s top, because once
there was another temple on top here – but we also learned that the
earth took over, roots grow in and sometimes the top layers are
destroyed, but the temple below is still there. By the way we also
learned that all the “pyramids” are tombs. As well only one side
is excavated – everything that is excavated erodes faster – so as
long as it is covered under a mound it is protected
- the Jaguar masks are from the 6th century – later there were 2 more temples built over it (which preserved the masks)
Elite
residential area/Royal complex: back down we crossed the grass
towards the living quarters of the elite – we walked through a few
rooms which had a stone bed in them and also here you can really see
how the trees grow into the walls. I really thought this looks pretty
amazing
Ball
Court: Then it goes between some beautiful palm trees with huge
leaves toward the ball court: and see there even Lamanai was such a
big city and occupied for such a long time, they have the smallest
ball court of the Mayans. But they found a huge round hollow stone
here filled with Mercury....
Stela
9 Temple: another temple structures with a stela – guess the
name Stela 9 Temple
- Stela 9 was found at the base of this pyramide and it is the best preserved one in Lamanai
- they found 2 dates but don’t know what they mean, but they discovered a picture of the ruler Smoking Shell with a ceremonial bar across his chest
The
unexcavated temples: Also when walking along here, you walk on
pathways between huge mounds and each one likely has a pyramid
underneath it. There is still a lot of work to do – nowadays they
don’t do any extended excavations, unless a university does a
project
High
Temple: it is king of funny,
when you think about the names – so coming here: yes this is the
highest temple at this site 33 m. Once everyone was allowed to climb
up the front main steps (which is by the way quite steep) – now
they made is easier and also to protect the temple some wooden steps
go along the side over unexcavated mounds up and you come up at the
back and then you are nearly at the top platform, so we can go up the
last steps and we are above the jungle: from here you have a
wonderful view on the lagoon and the forest, it is amazing.
- The high temple is from the Pre-Classis and was one of the largest structure from that period, they started building it 1000 BC
Temple
of the masks: not difficult to discover why they named it: the
huge (which are the largest in the Mayan world) masks are near the
bottom stairs (once there were 2 more above those – but those are
still covered by the temple being on top of it. And because the masks
were made of lime stone and people started to touch and scratch and
destroy them, they build plaster masks over the original ones, so
that they still will be preserved. And yes on the side there are some
steps you can walk up too... and yes if we are here, we will go up.
Did I mention a lot of the groups don’t go up on all of the temples
they don’t have time!! and we were lucky to climb on three of them.
At this temple we also walked up one set of stairs and then when
looking to the side you could see where the next structure once was
and then the next structures
- Mayans built on top: as where today in modern day we tear down what our father did, the Mayan respected it and added their own one over the top, so all is preserved
- the masks survived because a new staircase was built on top of them
- also they covered them in fools gold which is super shiny in the sun, so when the Spanish came they thought they discovered gold
- they thought it looks like the Sun god or Olmec god and is likely from 200 BC
- inside they found some tombs from 500 AD
Guanacaste
tree: we also learned and saw some cool trees – we saw one
super old Guanacaste tree (nearly as big as our huge ones) and we saw
another one where the fig strangler already started to grow around
and then we saw also the fig strangler tree where the tree was all
gone inside. Did I mention there are also some trees with real funky
names like “horse poop”
The
All Spice Tree: coming down
from a temple Coconut Piet gave each of us a leaf to break and cut
and smell – it was a super spicy smell – it is All Spice and
grows here on the tree.
Howler
Monkeys: and then suddenly we saw them sitting there watching
us... and later we heard them howling and you will not miss that
sound - and did you know that they are one of the top 10 loudest animals in the world
After
all that walking it is lunch time: and we get a typical Belizean or
Creole meal: rice with beans, yummy chicken, potato salad, super
spicy pickled onions and plantain.... it was really good and so we
were ready for the
Museum:
where we could see some artefacts they found as well as the original
Stela 9 showing a ruler and some other carved out stones.
Back on the river
and
another hour back – it was quite windy and fresh for that we
thought we are in super hot tropical Belize – but when we were
walking through the jungle you could feel the moisture. Seeing some
more of the huge iguanas and birds, as well we did a short cut
through snake alley – because once there were a lot of snakes...
Coffee
by the River
ok
so it was not sunny – but still nice and warm and perfect to sit on
the Picnic bench at the river with a coffee and catch up with diary
and what we all learned today. As well Paul discovered right away a
yellow iguana!! and see there suddenly it’s 5.30, time to go to
town shopping. Back at the 123 Supermarket we did found butter, but
ham and cold cut was a bit more complicated: ok we found it in the
can!! Fresh tomatoes & cucumber no problem all grown here. And
then you should think it is not that difficult to find a bun,
correct!!! Big suprise later.
How
difficult is it to open a can?
Good
thing we brought plates, knives, salt & spice and tuberware...
all set we went to a nice picnic table in front of one of the cabins.
That is when the trouble started with opening the can: all not that
simple, yes it is rocket science, but we got it done. Then the next
surprise: we bought a cheese bun and it had sugar on top, Paul got a
Mini baquete and it had chicken salad in it, and the cheese &
chive bun had sweet cream in it.... ok so we still have to learn on
how to buy normal buns!!! We had fun and no Mosquitos, that is
something.
By
the way we also met the guard who is here looking after us.
Good Bye Northern Lowlands
early
up and coffee in the sun... we are ready to go. Luckily they have
here a Scotia bank, so we hope we can use our Debit card and can
avoid the Visa... and see there it worked, that being the case and
that we never know on how much cash we need we decided to take out
quite a bit of Belizean dollars, so we can save our US Dollars for
emergency.
And
then we are on the road heading south
2025-05-22