Flores, Petén Department, Guatemala
Into the Today’s Guatemala
We
are in Guatemala:
- it’s the land of the Maya: if you walk here in the jungle you may even discover some “undiscovered ruins” - and we visit the most impressive of all Mayan sites: Tikal
- the largest of the Maya cities is here: El Mirador – so why don’t we go there? Because you have to walk for 5 days through the jungle: 2 days in 60 km one way through nearly 100% humility, over 35 C and no real path, oh and you have to carry everything in and out.
- Spanish is the official language
- they invented the chocolate bar – by the way chocolate has health benefits like lowering your blood pressure
- Here instant coffee was invented: as where in 1901 a Japanese filed a patent in Chicago it was undrinkable. George Constant Washington an English Chemist ived in Guatemala and inveted the first mass produced instant coffee it got sold under Red E Coffee in 1909
- Blue Denim was first invented in Guatemala – shortly after their invention the Levis brand began distributing Jeans around the world: the blue jeans trousers were patented by Levis Strauss in 1871
- they are the largest jade producers in the world (yes already Mayans used it)
- the name Guatemala translates into “land of trees” - and they do have the largest tee reserve in Central america
- Guatemala has the most UNESCO world heritage sites in the world
- 35% of all people work in the tourist industry
- they got independent in 1821
- the 36 year gerilla war ended with signing a peace agreement in 1996
- Guatemala has a population of 17 Mill and almost half of the popultation is under 19, Guatemala has the youngest population in Central American14 % live on less than 1 US$ a day, it is considered one of the poorest countries in central America and over 50 % live below poverty line and 60 % of the population does not know how to read or write
- it has one of the highest crime rates in the world
- the currency is Quetzal (GTQ) and named the national bird
In
Northern Guatemala – El Peten:
- this sparsely populated and junge-covered province is Guatemala’s largest and most northern part: it’s 1/3 of Guatelmalas land but only 4 % of the population live here
- this is the place of the Maya’s Classic Period -the cradle of Maya civilization: the arrival of the Spanish changed little, they jungle and wildlife kept them away
- the big change started in 1970 when they guatemala government saw the opportunity to market tikal as a tourist destination and they began to built a road; within 50 years the population increased from 15.000 to 600.000
- the Reserva de la Biosphere Maya is the largest tropical forest reserve in Central American
- During the civil wars the guerilla armies were based in El Peten
El
Remate
it’s
a tiny little town on Lake Peten, lots of restaurants and when
driving along we could see some cute docks sticking out, they say:
- it’s a sleepy little lakeside village at the eastern end of Lago Pelen Itza: Guatemala’s 2nd largest lake
- if you haven’t seen enough reuins: there are 27 Mayan sites around the lake
our
Hotel Bon Ami
a
bit outside of town and there it is: it is funny but they don’t
speak English at all. I show her the printout out from Booking.com –
but she couldn’t find it, until we looked together in the book and
see there is Paul Deane. We have a cute room with balcony – parking
“si, si ok” and yes there is swimming.
on
the dock
we
walk over to the dock: I have to say it’s a bit scary: all the
planks are painted, some are narrow and some are wide, sometimes the
gap is bigger. And the dock is not too wide and fairly high (I’m
surprised the thing is not moving), since the end is already occupied
we decided we would like to find another spot.
Biotope
Cerro Cahui – Playa
we
drive towards and into town, but here was no perfect place either no
spot for swimming (Gine) or no spot to lay down (Paul), so we checked
the other side and after turning Paul found the perfect spot. It is
part of the park, the fee is 5 GTQ pP, but it is only open until 4 pm
and it is already 3.45 – so when we check with the guy he told us
in Spanish that the playa part pf the park is always open, and yes it
is 5 GTQ but we can go in for free – we said Gracia and then
discovered that he closes for the day, so yes the park station is
closed, that’s why it’s free).
Here
we have picnic tables, green grass for Paul, benches, a beautiful
dock and crystal clear water.... everyone is happy, so Gine swims,
Paul relaxes and we enjoy also the beautiful scenery.
It’s
Pizza night
Since
Paul was not too well, we decided he can decide what he thinks his
Belly is ok with and so we ended up with Italian Pizza in Guatemala.
The place was super cute, the older lady spoke a but English: so the
Pizza you pay by size and the topping is as per customer request...
it was one of those supercute local places. We loved it.
Lake
front Morning
Since
Paul was not feeling to well yesterday: Gine said you can sleep as
long as you want. We slept in: 8 am!!! then down at the restaurant we
met Santiago, who told us it’s Sunday so there is less staff (I
think we are the only people in the hotel) we have breakfast with
lake view and then get a great beakfast Gine eggs with bread and
beans and Paul with omlette and fruit (he didn’t want the
beans!!!). Before leaving we had to go back down to the dock and
enjoy some last views on that beautiful lake – as well sit in the
hamock and check out more of the property – it’s a beautiful
place.
Flores
– the colorful island city
everyone
talks about this cute island town and so we went there – over the
bridge and yes there is a lot of parking. And then we start wandering
around the little island on the Malecon: we had some beautiful lake
views – halfway around we met the Norwegian couple – this is the
4th time we met (but likely the last time, since we go
different ways): first time we met on top of the temple in
Xunantunich when they took our picture and we talked, then we came
across each other in Caracol – met then near Temple II in Tikal and
now today: they are super ambitious it is there 2nd week
of travel and they want to go through Central and South America and
end up for New Years in Rio – they go along as they want no plans.
Every day they decide where to go.
Then
we go inland up to the church and the central plaza: now we deserve a
cold coke!! here we enjoy some more views down the island towards the
water – down some streets, up here we also discovered a few remains
from the Mayans: 3 stelae. Nowwe wander around some more cobble stone
streets – some are so narrow you can’t drive a car – back at
the water we complete the circle on the Malecon and back into the
little town and that is when we did
What’s
so special about Flores, that we came here?
- It was the main city of the Itza: when they came here from Chichen Itsa probably in the mid 15th century. At that time they had defesne walls protecting the island, during this golden age the city was packed with temples, palaces and houses – it is believed that around 2000 people lived on the island: it was called Tah Itza = Place of Itza, which the Spanish called Taysal
- it was the last conquest of the Spanish: the Spanish started to conquest the Mayans in 1523 but it took them 170 years until they were finally able to take Tayasal in 1697: they destroyed the pyramids, temples ands statues – only few remained: they named it Nuestra Senora de los Remdios.
- in 1831 it was named Flores by the Guatemalan government and became the capital of El Peten
And
what happened after the Mayans?
- the Spanish Colonial Period lasted from 1523 – 1823: the Spanish enslaved the indigenous people, refusla to work meant death, the colonists believed themselves omnipotent
- when the Spanish arrived the Mayans population had already decreased with people moving to smaller communites
- by 1600 war and European diseases wiped out 10 Mill Aztecs and 75-90% of all Mayans
- 1823 – 1840: the united Province of Central Amercia was formed by El Savador, honduras, Nicaragua, Costa Rica and Guatemala – they became independen from Spail
- after long struggle in the 1980s four mainly indigenous guerilla groups united to form the URNG: Guatemalan National Revolutionary Unit. Huge numbes of people mainly indigenous men from more than 400 villages were murdered in the name of anti=insurgency, stabalization and anti-communism.
- On Dec 29, 1996: they finally signed a peace agreement and ended the 36-year war: over 100.000 refugees (mostly Mayans) fled to Mexico, and it is estimated that 200.000 Guatemalans died
Some
last bargaining
here
we saw a few stores with souvenirs and in the 3rd one we
not only saw a beautiful magnet, but we also saw the Jaguar Temple –
so bargaining starts: first we bargain in Quetzals, we find a price
but then he only takes cash – so we have to bargain in Belize
dollars since Gine only has 10 GTQ left. The problem is they use the
3:1 conversion, but as per Gine’s currency exchange it is a 3.8 : 1
– so that makes a huge difference when we also convert it in CAD.
So some more bargaining and finally we do get the price we are ok
with. Hopefully we are both happy.
Back
through Guatemala’s countryside
now
it’s time to go back – one hour through Guatemala. And again we
see a lot on motorcycles. Came by a few police checkpoints. And we
discover that in one area they really like the Corner signs as well
as the arrows in the corners – even the road barely curves....
Back
at the Border
This
time we cross the new bridge and then drive up at the border and park
and there is Fernando. I think we could have done it without him, but
still it was nice to have a little bit a help: first stamp to leave
Guatemala. Then we take off our sticker and bring the paperwork back
to the vehicle permit. Now Paul drives to the Fumigation – Carwash:
which was not on when we came, so we had to wait until we got
sprayed. All clean we paid our 10 BD for it. Then Gine walks and Paul
drives to the Belizean border. We go inside and get our stamps for
Belize. Fernando said don’t do custom, only get your stamp. After a
good buy to him, we are on the road to the border check: and there we
had to show our passports – one of the guys wanted to check the
car, so we go both out: Paul had the serious guy who complained that
we didn’t bring the suitcases inside – Gine had the friendly
flirty type and we had a wonderful conversation.
2025-05-22