Altun Ha - Belize Zoo

Wednesday, January 22, 2020
Altun Ha, Belize District, Belize
Altun Ha – Belize Zoo
On Belizean Highways
after paying again our 50 cents of toll, we are driving down the Northern Highway. I may should mention Belize has 4 highways: the northern Highway – The Western Highway – the Southern Highway and the Hummingbird highway. And after the end of today we already drove half of Belize’s Highways.
Junk yards: we also came by several one, so we stopped and checked if we can find a local lisence plate – so far we did not got lucky... so we are still on the search. And as Gine pointed out how many tourist go in each country they go to on a jun yard?
Ok we are nearly proficient now: pass when you can, remember there are speed bumps and often they have a yellow sign, so always keep on lookout: they are high and hard (yes we know we missed one and were not even driving that fast) – also often at the speed bumps they sell food or drinks: guess you already have to slow down. Another thing not to miss are the potholes: they can be deep and some are filled with stones which are higher than nearly as deadly.
Left turns: one very unique road rule was pointed out to us: when you turn left, you go on the right shoulder until the road is clear and then you turn – because the roads are so narrow, that you would block the traffic
Our final leg to the ruins went via the old highway, which was narrow but very good and already we could see a lot of busses... guess the cruise ships are in town. We were wondering why that one guy passed the bus when we are that close, but then after the bus was so super slow at the first pothole we knew why and passed them too.
Parking is free, but someone came by and asked Paul for his name and it got written down: Guess Paul is now known in Belize. And then we worried a bit about all the busses: ok only 5 and the tour groups – but in the end it all worked out pretty well. Even we discovered there were at least 3 different cruise lines in port today.
  • It got settled 200 BC until 900 AD: it was a mayan trading post and a religious center – they assume that around 10.000 people lived here, with 3000 in the Core area
  • The real name is unknown, it got the name Altun Ha = Stone water – previously it was called Rockpond: because of the large reservois constructed by the Mayans: it was lined with clay to hold water and it shows the advanced knowledge of the Maya to collect water and allowing the stream to continue on it’s track
  • Archaeologist arrived in 1964: they found around 250 structures and 500 identified mounds – ok we saw several of the mounds – the site was excavated by Dr. David Pendergast from the Royal Ontario Museum
  • it is the best excavated site in Belize – and also the most visited one
  • even it is only a medium Mayan site it looks from what they found that it was extremely wealthy
  • we also learned that the Mayans understood the concept of the wheel, but there were no horses or oxen to pull a wheeled carriage trough the rugged terrain
And who is David Pendergast?
  • Born in 1934 he was an American Archaeolgist and got famous for it’s excavations in Altun Ha and Lamanai
  • while pursuing his doctorat he worked as a Museum Curator and already in 1957 he started excavations in Tikal – and then he did more excavations in California, Mexico, Arizona, Utah, Belize as well as Cuba
  • he began excavations for the Royal Museum of Ontario from 1964-1971 in Altun Ha where he found the Jade head in the B4 structure he then named the Sun god Temple
  • from 1874 – 1986he directed archaeological research in Lamanai – constructing it’s time chronology
  • and to be fitting he also married an archaeologist
ok, we know it had 2 plaza’s: A & B – how exciting – guess the Archaeologist are not that fancy when it comes for naming – after we came in, we discovered on how small the site is once we came in: you start walking between some round mounds and then on the right we see stairs going up on a mound: ok that must be
unexcavated mound A6: it’s unexcavated and one of the highest buildings, on top there are a few remains of some buildings, otherwise it looks like a huge grass covered mount: but what is the most amazing is the view from the top: in front of us is Plaza A and on the right the temple of the green tomb and right across we see the A3 pyramide and the A4 stairs and behind the Plaza B with on the left the huge temple of Masonary – wow it is so absolutely super cool. And one of the guides was up there and told us that he will take some pictures of us and that he knows the best spot to take them... oh and we could already see the Cruise ship tours (by the way they didn't had time to go up here)
A1 = Temple of the Green tomb: and yes you can go up, so we went up, and here in this temple they found over 300 green jade pieces: beads, earings and rings. They also discovered some human remains and traditional funerary treasures – actually up there on top where we were, that is where they discovered the tomb. And as everywhere here, there are super photo opportunities
  • Jade is an ornamental mineral, known for it’s green varieties and it is naturally occuring in Belize’s
  • Obsidian is a natural occuring volcanic glass, and it is produced when lava is colled rapidly
A3: having only names and numbers shows how no-one clearly knows what they are: this pyramid has some stairs going up again and from here we can see down the back to Plaza B as well we have super views on the huge Temple of Masonry altars. Up here are again some rooms – what for??
A5: so they say it is partly excavated – I would say not at all but you can imagine where stairs and walls were – I mean it is all overgrown with grass – you can imagine how they came here and then start to dig
A4 – rooms: from here we go over A4 which extends to B1 they say that here were once interior rooms – guess you need a lot of imagination – but it’s perfect to sit down for a drink. But from here we can go through
B3 – rooms: so you go up and there are a lot of little rooms, I mean you can see some walls and then we decide because we are totally on time that we visit what made this site famous:
Rock stone ponds: they say it’s a 10 Min walk we did it faster and it is going right through the jungle and then we come to that huge pond: a spring starts here, and the mayans diverted the creek and build the huge pond so that it can then can run off into the old track once the pond is full and overflows. Here we also saw some huge palm leaves: I mean Paul is tiny compared to them!! And then it is time for a last climb today:
B4 – Temple of masonry altar or the temple of the Sun god: it looks amazing from the front and then we walk up wooden stairs on unexcavated site and once you are up you stand in front of a round altar: ok we had to see how it looks like if we sacrifice Paul. Inside this pyramide they found likely the most impressive tomb of this site: in 1968 they found a solid jade head also referred to as Kinich Ahau – the sun god: what made it so famous is that it is solid jade, weighs 9 pounds and is 6 inches high: we saw a replica in the museum (the original is in the vault in the bank of Belize worth between 5-10 Mill $)) And because everyone comes up here there are 2 sets of stairs one up and one down....
Ceiba Tree: and right at the bottom is a huge Ceiba tree and with listening in on the tour guides we learned that this was a sacred tree of the Mayans
Now it’s time for the museum: to read up a bit more – about all we haven’t known: like that the Mayan’s knew about the wheel but didn’t know how to use it... Did I mention that it is totally sunny and we soaked up a lot of sun!!
On the road again
today is one of the 2 big driving days: 180 km in total – and so we are again for one hour on the road but this time we get a bit of a break because we drive by the only prison of Belize in Hattie ville (by the way this town is named after Hurricane Hattie in 1961 when they made here a refugee center for the people who got homeless in Belize City and it looks like some stayed. Paul’s question was: do you think they treat them well.
Another cool thing we saw a brandnew road they built and the electric poles are in the middle of the road – guess you don’t drive to often over the middle line or pass a vehicle.... And then Gine complained about Paul because he drives to fast and constantly passes someone – until one of those old busses passed us, guess I can say that we are the fastest (even we are a bit faster than google map)
And then we are on the western highway, until we come to the:
this is a must do for all tourists coming to Belize, or this is what we read. So why is this zoo so famous:
  • it is considered the best small zoo in the wrold and the most visited place in Belize’s
  • the zoo began when Richard Foster shot a wildlife documentary entitle “path of the raingods” in Belize in the early 1980s. After the shooting was over the animals had become partly tame and they wondered what to do with them. So the Biologist in charge of the 17 animals started the Belize Zoo to display native Belxean wildlife in their natural surrounds
  • today you find here all native animals to Belize.
With only 125 animals it is a quite small and in a few hours you can see all: so we started out and I have to say we did not see all but we saw nearly all of them and by the way some of the animals we never even heard about: the little grey fox, the Jaguarundi and the Happy Eagle, the Crested Guan and Curassow, the Jabiru Stork: which is huge and we could hear it when he cleaned it’s wings. We had fun looking for the Black Howler Monkey – but today we haven’t heard dem, admired the Puma sleeping, found the ocelot (which is more like a kitty cat in Leopard look). What I really liked were the tapirs – and we saw several once of them: at one spot he always tried to push his nose through the fence:
  • it has the shape of a pig with a short trunk
  • they live in the forest of Central and South America (and South Asia)
  • there are 4 different tapirs: I think we saw 3 of them: the Bairds or Central American Tapir, the south American Tapir and the Mountain Tapir
  • they eat fruit, berries and leave and use their nose to search for food in the ground
  • when looking at their feet from the top they have 3 toes and from the bottom 4 toes
Walking along the freshwater pond with turtles and we saw more tapirs, as well as deers when Paul discovered a jaguar: sitting there and posing. We then watched the spider monkeys walking along on the ground and sitting in the tree...
by then 2.5 hours later we really needed a break and then decided we don’t need to see al the birds and rather keep going – so after another busy day we needed a break!! Oh and then we wanted a cold drink, that is when we discovered that Gine bought Coconut water instead of water!!! not our favourite.
What I really liked about the zoo were all the nice hand painted sign and the rescue story of each of the animals, also the walks were all like going through the jungle and not like a zoo with cages made for the animals... you had the feeling all they did was put up fences and make walkways through the jungle... so yes it is very unique and cute
our little cabin
ok 30 more km and also by two small totally overgrown cemeteries and then we are there: first challenge was the construction site in the circle – but we could drive after going once in the wrong direction through to the western highway. Then it was a bit more exciting because our cabin was: behind the hydro lines: no street name or number... and so once we were close to where the Camelote Village were on the lookout for the gas station: because the 3rd gravel road after the gas station before the Hydro we turn right, at the end left and then there is a gray house with a gate: through the gate at the end of the property is the cabin: and so at the end of that street we turned left and I said to Paul it is right now on the left side: yes there was a cabin with no walls.... but we found ours too!! it is a super cute little place, right away we made coffee, we would have liked to sit outside so we used the stairs....
Chicken on the Run
What’s for supper, we decide tonight we go out: ok so what is all here we found the Chicken on the run... driving by they don’t speak English but we got it that they are open until nine.... there was another place Gine found on Google map and so we followed the instructions and we went into the middle of the Roarng Creek town I mean you can’t go any more into the area were the locals live – gravel with huge potholes and mostly super old buildings, once the GPS said to turn right – but that path was only for walking not driving... and where the restaurant should have been were only super old houses... so we slowly made our way back through lots of turns in that town and came by a open sign for a restaurant “Chicken wrap 1 $” - I would say that it as local as it can be, so we stopped and checked but it looked a bit weird especially when she told us it is no meat it is bones...
Let’s fill up the gas yes it is 10 BD so not so cheap... but there was a lot to see at the gas station because besides having a sunset there were thousands of birds on the palm trees and on power lines.
Back at the Chicken on the Run: it was super yummy and for sure local – we absolutely loved it.
Time to head back and do our evening duties; trip advisor, finances, diary, downloading pictures....
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2025-05-22

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