Went into town early and saw the scooter lady My Le. A Suzuki Nuovo for $5 a day but first we went to see a place I could rent if I decide to spend more time here. Down the back lanes of Hoi An towrds Cui Dai beach, a beautiful spot for $350 a month. I think I could do better but time will tell. The scooter was at this new location and I had to drive it back to the hotel which wasn't too bad as the traffic is a lot less out here away from the town.
Before I had gone to town I went to a barber and the barber was out of some different mould to the barbers I have known
. Haircut, straightforward, not much to cut, then a shave which involved every part of my face and neck and even part of my back. All done with an old fashioned cut-throat razor. I asked for my ears to be cleaned so first he cut the hair out and then probed in my ear with some tool that scraped all the wax out which he proudly showed me. Then a liquid was poured in and a fine brush whisked it around to make it squeaky clean. An eyebrow trim and a shoulder and neck massage topped it off.
I went and saw the stuttering camera lady and using the best techique, a stab in the dark, I bought a Fujifilm camera. Hope it lasts longer than the old one. Tonight I looked it up on Amazon and naturally I got ripped off.
Back to the hotel and Johnnie had dissapeared so I jumped on the bike and headed off to Cua Dai beach. On the way I was sad to see the Blue Wave cafe had apparently closed, the family spent some good times there last time in 2011.
Riding through the traffic wasn't as bad as I imagined and my bike skills came back to me, it's 38 years since I've ridden a motorbike
.
Cua Dai is a beautiful stretch of beach and the big hotel companies are building resorts there rapidly. Not all has gone to plan though, I stopped near one to see part of it sliding into the sea and its foundations undermined, probably at least a 100 room hotel. Further along were grey concrete boxes that also looked abandoned.
I came to the end of the road near a light house and saw a small shack and some fishing boats and a drink stand so I pulled over. The lady running it was speaking to me volubly in Vietnamese and her paunchy son sat back flaunting his huge belly.
I had coffee and watched the fishing boats coming and going and when I got up to leave the son made a remark about the usual Happy Buddha referring to my gut and to his which he seemed quite proud of, then made a sucking on a cigarette gesture and said "Buddha?" Buddha grass was popular in the 60's and was a particularly virulent and hard hitting cannabis containing opium. It was an invitation to buy I think. I said no and went on my way. Now the mothers rave in Vietnamese made sense, also when I had asked her to point out some point on the map she was all over me pressing close against me, not very Viet style
.
Back home and I went straight to the pool took of my prosthetics, I have a lot these days, and jumped in. Afterwards I gathered everything up and back in my room I realised I had lost a hearing aid. Went outside again and a German guy there said "I feel for you" he had some too but his were drilled into his head behind his ear. Yeah I didn't know about that either.
No success so sleep and go into town to find the lost beaver hunter from Montreal, ended up again at Tuan Y and had steamed fish in banana leaf. By the way last night I had duck and now I know why people think its a delicacy.
Eating dinner and My Le calls, Johnnie is there. He had walked home, heard I had gone to town so walked back again. that Frenchie can damn well walk! On the way back a young girl comes over and starts her spiel trying to sell bangles. She says she remembered me and my son and Sally from last time when we stayed the other side of the river. Bloody amazing. She said she had a gift for it.
While she was wrapping up her sale, as I had weakened, again, the boat people who tout for rides on the river , came over and grabbed her bangles and took them and we had to hide the money as 3 big guys walked past
. They were local inspectors and she said if they caught her she would have all her money and stock confiscated and have a 1M dong fine. She didn't have the correct permits.
On the way back some Aussies we vaguely know called us over to a riverside restaurant. The main guy has a Vietnamese wife who sat in silence while the husband and his mates talked about how the Vietnamese rip you off all the time and those who aren't in the know are more or less fools.
I got sick of it and nudged Johnnie and we left, I made a point of saying goodnight Madame to the Vietnamese lady who wasn't introduced to us.
Back at the hotel we got torches and were joined by the concierge also with a torch, combing the grass for my aid. No luck. It'll turn up somewhere, as long as people are on my right hand side I will be able to converse.
Scooters and more
Monday, March 10, 2014
Hoi An, Quảng Nam, Vietnam
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Comments

2025-05-23
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sista&bro2
2014-03-10
love photos, especially PBC street, our old stamping ground