Luwuk, Central Sulawesi, IndonesiaWe awoke Friday just after three in the morning. Our first flight of the day was scheduled to depart 8:00 a.m. so we needed to be at the airport by six o’clock. When we got there we found the airport didn’t open until seven o’clock. No problem, there was a nice morning breeze. When the doors opened we learned there’d be a one hour delay because none of the passengers were there two hours in advance. No problem.
We knew right from the get-go that the B737 we were on wasn’t one of the newer Max ones, the ones that had been crashing regularly when they first came off the airplane assembly line. You could tell by the grunge and age-frayed upholstery that this one was probably built in the early to mid-60s. As it turned out, the flight was marvellous, not a single fasten-your-seatbelts demand. Our second flight, to the town of Luwuk in Central Sulawesi went tickety-boo as well.
A driver named Udo had been hired to take us from Luwuk to Ampana, where we’d catch a boat to the Togian Islands, off the coast of Central Sulawesi. It was just a six hour drive, no problem. The first portion of the journey went over hill and dale, where roads were windy and waterfalls plentiful. Dogs slept in the middle of the road, while seemingly wiser goats and cows kept to the perimeter. When we got to the sea coast, the route was dotted with pleasant little, almost vacant villages. At six o’clock, when the sun went down, that all changed. Humans know enough to stay out of the heat, but come out in droves after sunset. But they’re rather like the dogs, in-that they think nothing of walking on the roadway while cars, trucks and motorbikes zoom past them at speed.
Elenka and I were both nervous as Hell. She buried her head under a pillow in the backseat of our seatbelt-less car, while I sat in the front answering Google translation questions for Udo. I was frightened to tears we’d run over or into something because of his not-so-bright headlights, coupled with him typing the bloody questions on his hand-held device while motoring along. “No problem,” were his only two English words. It was oh so fortunate for us all that I was constipated.
When we arrived in Ampana, Elenka and I clapped like charter-flight passengers arriving at a Caribbean Island. Udo didn’t know what to make of us. But I do have to say, Udo might well be the best car pilot ever. He drove fast as Hell, all of the time, running over not a single living creature. The James Bond-like way he maneuvered around a cat, a kitten, a child and a chicken, was something for the eye to behold. During the journey I smoked my first cigarette in years—all the way to where my lips got burned. And when we arrived at our sleeping place in Ampana, we both had our first drink of the trip; nice big glasses of Grant’s Scotch Whisky.
The following morning, after a sushi roll-like breakfast, we rickshawed it down to the boat terminal. To get to our Togian destination, rather than taking the four-hour fast-boat, we went for the adventure of a six-hour cargo ship. Scheduled to leave at nine-thirty, along with 15 locals who spoke no English and didn’t seem to like foreigners, we set sail just three-hours late at half-past-twelve. No problem!
On another note: Whether they have a pot to pee in or not, every Indonesian, probably beyond the age of 10, has a hand-held Google/ telephone device—which begs the question. Are Elenka and I the only adults on the planet who don’t use one of these things?
No photos for this entry. Uploading doesn’t work so well where we are.
Cate
2023-02-09
No problem…….I know Ellen’s photos will come later…😂. Marvellous story….wonderful adventure…it beats the hell of sitting here watching Vancouver and NY Rangers playing… I’m assuming the driver gave you the cigarette……and probably the last………was Ellen constipated also….😂. Have a good time and stay safe…🥰
Stephz
2023-02-09
Are Elenka and I the only adults on the planet who don’t use one of these things? Retorical question indeed Jack. Thanks for the laugh out louds! Harilious!
Daniel
2023-02-09
A lot of travelling for you guys this time around. It's always a bit wearing but so much sweeter when you finally get where you are going. Especially if that place have a hot shower and a bum gun 🥳.
Majka
2023-02-09
There are only few of your “no-device” kind Jack. Then there are those like me, who admire you for that and will join you one day. Thank you for great reading :)
Magnus
2023-02-09
Ahoy Jack & Elenka THis brought back fond memories. The cargo ship I got was the Pegasus, I asked the captain to wake me as we crossed the equator. He did and took me to the bridge where he appeared to be in a rather bad mood. Togians were splendid and very run-down. Thanks for the update. Excellent use of "tickety-boo".
Valerie
2023-02-09
Interesting descriptions of your adventures . Truly exciting and unpredictable travel . So hilarious about your first cigarette in years !
Tony
2023-02-09
No Smoking Your travel so far sounds very interesting , be safe and have fun.
Irene
2023-02-09
Jack, you never disappoint! happy to have sat this one out mentally LOL! looking forward to Elena's excellent pictures!