West Bay, Bay Islands Department, HondurasIt was a windy day and the surf was churning.
Elenka and I were walking along a beach where the local families swim when a lad of maybe three crossed our path and charged for the water. Mommies and daddies would never let such things happen back home in the land-of-plenty, but there was something odd about the kid that distracted me. He’d ran past us as gracelessly as any three year-old might, but he seemed way too short. After getting smacked and knocked arse-over-tea-kettle by a wave, the lad got up with a big smile on his face and ran back to his non-worrying parents. The boy had no legs from his knees down.
***
In years gone by, Elenka and I would oftentimes do a beach-hike from West End to the far southern tip/wall of West Bay for the excellent snorkelling. The other day, we decided to re-live the experience. As we entered the water and snorkelled along the wall I noticed Elenka’s head in constant motion, from side to side. After 10 or so minutes she turned to me and pointed north.
I followed. Ten minutes later she signalled she wanted to talk. When we raised our heads above the surface she was swearing with tears in her eyes. I knew it would be about the state of the reef; I’d recognized what it had become as soon as I stuck my head in the water. Alive and thriving with sea life just seven years ago, today it’s dead-brown and almost fish-less.
Seven years of cruise ship day-trippers on an already over-crowded beach with a reef that was too close to shore for its own good and that’s what happens. Newbies snorkel out to the massive reef, which sits in some spots less than a metre below the surface, and then take a rest from the snorkelling by standing and walking on it.
The business owners, the ones who make their living from people who come there for the reef, don’t seem to care one way or the other. And I guess the government must be on the same page. That’s humans for you.
Before heading home, Elenka and I popped into the local groceteria and picked up a bottle of Nicaraguan Flor de Caña rum. Twenty-years ago, on our first trip to Nicaragua we discovered this treasure. A couple of trips later, after arriving home, I offered a friend who worked for the LCBO (Ontario’s spirits monopoly) a sample and he liked it. Next thing you know Flor de Caña became available in our Ontario. In everything that is alcohol, it was my proudest moment. To this day, on weekends, I make Elenka a pre-dinner daiquiri using this wonderful flower of the cane.
While the West Bay reef has gone to Hell, Elenka and I are happy to have our own healthy, people-less reef, just a few metres down the beach from our apartment. There’s a lionfish who fins there daily. He seems to be as happy staring at us as we are, staring at him.
Peter
2022-01-17
I think there might be a bounty on the head of the lion fish, it's quite far from home. May have contributed to the demise of the reef.
Monica
2022-01-17
Wow such amazing pictures. Enjoy your good weather, warm waters and beautiful sunsets
Irene
2022-01-17
That looks so tranquil! You both sure know how to enjoy all that life has to offer the best way! you always find you own little paradise, I'm green with envy and never as brave as you guys. Beautiful pictures sure tell a wanting story. Shame though the cruise ships are so menacing. We're in the middle of a winter storm, lots of snow, road closures, yaddy yadda! you picked a great time to get away! Stay well and enjoy Thanks for sharing
Pablo David
2022-01-17
Glad you are capturing the reef before it is entirely wiped out... #TheSixthExtinction
Rodger
2022-01-17
I understand Elenka's sorrow about the condition of the reef! We experienced the same sorrow last year one hundred kilometers north of West Bay at Punta Uva Costa Rica. Hoping the same doesnt happen to Raja Ampat....
Margo
2022-01-17
Shows to go you, that little 3 yr old grabs his moment in life and runs fearlessly into the water. Sometimes it takes a moment like that for us to stop and appreciate what we do have. Re the sad state of the coral reef. That is definitely heartbreaking. You'd think that the government would have protection and control in place. We know that it can't be undone. As you know, Rick also enjoys "flower of the cane" and is glad you tipped off your man at the LCBO. Now where are we on a new red wine taste treat? Nice shots Elenka, always look forward to seeing your pics.
Margo
2022-01-17
Re Coral Reef, do you you think Climate change played a role?
Valerie R
2022-01-18
I love these photos and your entries from warm exotic places . It takes me away from the rigours of the snow
Cate
2022-01-19
I love going on these trips with you and Ellen and the pictures are always perfect…..sad about the conditions…..just keep looking forward and enjoy every moment…