First days in Iceland

Friday, July 03, 2015
Reykjavík, Iceland
We have now started the last leg of our trip after today flying from Copenhagen to Reykjavik. Managed to get a few a pics of Norway from the air over the head of a very wriggly but cute young boy sitting by the window. Surprised I was able to see a very winding road in snowy country and wondered if this was one of the ones we had travelled?
 
Iceland looked quite different from the air - flat, sometimes with mountains erupting from the flatness, and coloured in a very muted palette. So different to what we have seen recently.
Our large apartment is in Kopavagur, Iceland's second largest town which blends into Reykjavik. Supermarket and cafes right across the road so very handy. We have gained another 2 hours so a long day. By the time we arrived it was dinner time so we went next door to sample some local cuisine. Bob has the 'fish of the day' and I had an Icelandic dish 'Plokkfiskur', a dish of chopped fish, potato and onion accompanied by black bread and butter. Delicious.
 
Tomorrow we will check out Reykjavik...

 
 
 So, Reykjavik. I am so impressed. Not all like I expected. Pictures I had seen had given me an impression of bareness, coloured and fairly plain houses, and a busy harbour. Well. it does has all of that but a lot more. It is obviously a place well loved by tourists, though it does sound (from a lady in the tourist info) that it has suddenly got busy with school holidays etc. There are museums galore, restaurants everywhere, lots of interesting and varied architecture, a lovely old harbour and snow capped mountains in the distance.
 
On arriving downtown, I was surprised just how many tall buildings there are here. Lots of building going on too, particularly apartment buildings (just like everywhere else). We saw a number of buildings with quite detailed paintings on their sides - very nice too, and of course old style wooden buildings in the old part of town. 
 
Once parked, like many others, we headed up Laugavegur street to the Hallgrimskirkja (Church). There is a lift up the 75m high tower - thank heavens - there are no stairs. From here is a fantastic view over Reykjavik - in every direction. On our meander around the city we visited the sculpture Garden at the Einar Jonsson Museum, saw the exhibition at the National Gallery, and then walked to the old harbour area for lunch (toasted sandwich). 
 
   
 
By the harbour was a display of posters and photographs documenting ships that had sunk in surrounding waters over different time periods. It was interesting to see how many ships from France, particularly Brittany were involved. It seems that a number of countries as well as France did a lot of fishing here when their waters were not as bountiful. We saw photos of fisherman from Dunkirk and Paimpol (where we were a few years ago). What a challenge it would have been to come and fish here. And obviously very dangerous according to the number of ships lost. 
 
A visit to Harpa, the new Concert Hall was also interesting. The exterior is a shining lattice of convex and concave glass panels that change colour. We were surprised when we walked into the foyer that everything was painted black. Such a contrast. But then we walked further and suddenly the the ceiling soared to heights with the same sparkling glass shapes. It is a wonderful design. We have been most impressed with now a number of magnificent new concert halls that have been built with a lovely aspect to the water. But are they a match for our Opera House?
 
To finish this entry I must mention a couple of food items. Firstly, they have SO much licorice in the stores here. Most impressive, but hard to stay away from. And secondly, we love the Icelandic rye bread. It has a sweet taste, dense crumb and dark colour. Traditionally it is steamed underground by geothermal heat for 12 hours, but if not cooked this way it still needs 8 hrs in a low oven. As a result it does not develop a crust. It is beautiful just with butter. So will need to try often here as I don't think I will be trying that at home!


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