Katherine & Kakadu

We stay 10 km west of Katherine at Manbullo homestead, not only the cheapest place to stay its so easy going . Large shady sites short walk from the river . They allow us to bucket wash the car and van as we are on grass that they water from river anyway. I bought some home grown tomatoes, zucchini and fresh eggs. The granddad has a vegetable garden, and one of the granddaughters helps
so she can sell some of the produce to get more money as she is off to America next year as an exchange student.
The couple parked beside us may be here for awhile as they are having to do repairs to the front overhang of their fifth wheeler. The people from the homestead are so good they are lending him tools, grinder, welder etc as metal has fatigued and broken in places.

I keep forgetting to say the speed limit on main roads, out of town, here in NT is 130km and they are no better roads than the one from Benalla to Shepparton. A bit scary at times when things overtake you at such speeds, We do are normal around 80km with van, use too much fuel otherwise, but we can get passed by car and vans going a lot faster and you see them wobbling all over the road. Then there is the 4 trailer road trains coming around bends on skinny roads , I am not driving with van in tow, not here.

Anyhow we spend our first day in Katherine cleaning, going shopping and on way back checking out the hot springs. Next day up early to walk around the hot springs and nature park and of course go for another dip . The hot springs is a number of clear pools with running water of about 32 c when it comes out of the ground. The water winds through the trees getting colder before joining the Katherine river. The shire has put in little ladders into the various pools which are no more than chest deep but very relaxing which is surprising on hot days of 30- 34c.
Forgot to take picture of us in pools
 
We leave Katherine and head to Lellyn-- Edith falls, which isnorth on our way to Kakadu. This is part of the Nitmiluk NP and Katherine Gorge is in the south part, we will call in there on our way back south.
Edith falls has a camp ground next to a waterfall and plunge pool, just 5 min walk from the van.
It is no surprise that after setting up camp we go snorkelling in the plunge pool. It is deep and a little bit cold, we can not see too much under water unless it comes close, but fun.


This is part of the Edith river and we walk to the top pool and on to Leliyn pool with its small waterfall. This is about 8km of the track that goes to Sweetwater and links up with Katherine gorge trek of 5 days, not for us.
We do get in this Leliyn pool and swim to the waterfall but don't stay in long as I have all these little leeches all over me , just little baby ones but thats enough to make me leave. 
 
 So we walk back down to the top pool stopping on the way for 2 lookouts. To get to the top pool you have to climb over large rocks and the larger boulders have metal steps or ropes, and then you make waters edge and slide in on your bum as rocks are slippery. Stay here swimming but back a bit from the waterfall as some young people being fools jumping in from the top. As usual there are underwater boulders and rocks so it is not a safe past time.

We then walk back down the other side of the waterfall and back to camp for late lunch. We are dry by the time we are back and ready to go snorkelling again in the plunge poll after lunch.
Gold was found at Driftwood creek 15km north of here in 1878 but nothing has been found in the park.

What a shame we have to leave this place, well we do not have to leave but Kakadu awaits.
We have decided to go up the Kakadu highway and around to join the Arnham hwy to go to Darwin then down the Stuart hwy south again. This is because it is the end of the dry season nearly and kakadu is drying up fast before the wet starts, so we need to be in there to see what we can plus not so many people this way around as it is not only hot but beginning to get muggy as it builds up to start of wet season. Only trouble is we can not swim in Kakadu , only 3 places, as there are too many saltwater crocodiles and as rivers, creeks get less the more concentrated they get in billabongs. Billabongs are the areas of water left as the rivers and creeks dry , leaving waterholes or Billabongs.
We stop at Pinecreek to get our Kakadu pass which is $25 each for 14 days and you get checked to make sure you have one. At Pine creek they a water gardens in the middle of town so we break the drive and walk around , we will stay here on the return trip so we can go see another gorge without the van.
We stop outside the park at Pussycat flats on an old race track its not a nice place but it means we start Kakadu in early morning.
The idea was we go to Gunlom camp at the base of the falls but some people say the road is not good so we stop at the Mary river roadhouse and find different stories so we unhook the van and leave it here to go and check the road. we are told of a waterfall and pool not far from here that is not sign posted just has metal tool box on a post to show the way in . We can swim here . We find it and have a swim, there a a set of table and chairs and a cleared area so do not know why it is not sign posted, but we are glad as we are the only ones here.


Next we find the ranger station and its empty but find a notice that says due to burning off procedures the waterfall and the top pools at Gunlom are closed. So that rules out are trip in there so we go back and collect the van and head to the next camp. Which is Gungurul. There are Indigenous names for all places here.
With a stop at a lookout on the way. It was still smoking when we get there , making for not so good photos.
Kakadu is federal govt. run with the Indigenous people not state run. Talking to an Indigenous guide latter we get told that the burning is by permit only in NT for weeds straight after the wet and not again until start of wet to get grass growing to feed wild animals. So why they burning now when everything is so dam dry, it is burning too hot killing plants and wildlife that have no chance of escape. Its not only the cane toad killing off things.
Gungirul is walking distance to the south Alligator river. Funny name seeing how Australia dose not have alligators. The walk from camp area branches of to a lookout , not worth it it still smoking, and to the river . It is 34 degrees and just after lunch so Larry walks without me for awhile. I should have gone as he found a dingo and while he was creeping up to take a photo the adult had disapeared but he found 3 pups playing and chewing on an old wallaby carcass. When we went again latter in the afternoon we only found all their footprints and some buffalo.

Maguk plunge pool was next for us to visit, we only got half way down the dirt road I before we had to unhook the van and leave it on a clearing at the side of the road. We drove to the car park and then there is a walk in of a couple of kilometres, the last bit over and beside the Barramundi creek over rocks, as usual. Well worth it to swim here, we were glad a couple of young men got in before us just I case of the presence of salt water crocodiles. This is a very deep pool and cold over below the waterfall. 
 

 Unlike most waterfalls there are no rocks at its base to stand on or hold onto to be under the falling water. We can see plenty of fish close to the rock walls and little lizards on the rocks getting the suns heat, but we did not bring the waterproof camera just the other cameras.
There is a campground in here but not for the van so we have to walk back out then go back and pick up the van to head on.
Our campground for a few days is Mardugal, it has solar hot showers and flushing toilets and not too busy. Its a park camp so no power but plenty of sun on our solar panels and $10 each a night so not bad. There are 3 big tourist resort parks where you pay a lot extra to be jammed in close to each other . Here you can walk down to the Mardigal Billabong on Jim Jim creek that has its own salty so no swimming. We do walk down to billabong one night and only find lots of cane toads.
 
 
Last time we were here we went on a yellow water cruise with an indigenous guide so this time as the water is down a lot we thought we would walk the board walk around the wetlands.
 
  Yellow water is also part of Jim Jim creek which in turn joins the west alligator river flowing to the sea.
During the tourist season the rangers do talks,walks and slide shows of the park on various days. We had missed out all the way , missing the one at Edith falls and the next one being cancelled so we were all ready for the talk and slide show here. Taking our chairs and mosquito stuff to set area for the 7.30pm start, by nearly 8pm we gave up and thats when we did the night walk. She was late and apparently it was all over in 20 mins instead of an hour.
One of our days was spent on a definitely 4 wheel drive track looking for 3 different Billabongs The Alligator, The Bucket, and the red lilly. Well we left the van at just after 7 am and started down the old dirt road that goes to Darwin we find a wing of a spotted nightjar [related to owls ],on the road , do not know if it was hit by a car or a bird of prey, close by was a creepy thing with ants getting breakfast.

  
 
You might have guessed by now we stop for strange things on the road. We had been told that the turn off this road is easy to miss, you have too turn right at a water crossing but you turn while your back wheels are most probably still in the water. We found it and yes turned up the bank as left water onto a small car width track. Anyhow it took 3 hours to go 38km.
We came across small billabongs but no signs so got out and looked at all the birb and wildlife collecting around ever diminishing water holes. Finally we found a sign for the first named billabong and then the next and on to red lilly billabong. 
 
 
The dilemma now is do we return the way we came or do we push on another 28km to the bitumen Arnhem Highway then to Kakadu hwy back to camp. Probably over 100km . This last bit of dirt road we were told is not so bad. Time is now past 2pm so we go on to the highway this will only take maybe 2 hours whereas going back will take 4-5 hours. We check the next camp area as we pass it and arrive back to the van around 4pm and have a nice cold shower , a swim would have been good though. The only thing was is I had planned roast potatoes and vegetables and steak for Larry cooked outside in the cob oven, so before a shower that had to be started. Then sit down and do nothing before another warm shower before bed. We had been told the government where doing counts on wild horses, boar and buffalo by helicopter in the park and this area was today and then a cull would take place from the helicopters. We did hear and see them but we also have seen horses, pigs and buffalo.
We move to next base camp so the next area can be seen which includes a steep walk to Nawurlandja lookout over looking the Nourlangie range and wetlands of Nourlangie creek.
 
 
Another trip out is to Abangbang billabong and to rock art sites in the ranges We find plenty birds, skinks and butterflies ,art and wild boar. The Nourlangie rock art site is the 2nd most famous in Kaadu and has a 20,000 year old shelter site.
On our way to the last place we will base the van in Kakadu we stop at jabiru village for bread and fruit. Jabiru has a resort, a pool , bakery and a little supermarket.
Our base camp is close to the border of Kakadu and Arnhem land, to which you need a permit, we will not go in on this trip. The crossing is on the East alligator river at Cohills crossing and many documentaries have been made of this river crossing and at high tide the crocodiles that arrive.

We find a nice place to park in the campgrounds that gives us enough sun on our solar panels and make a beeline along the walk to the crossing. The river is tidal and it is about 30km to the estuary and sea. There is a viewing platform now sopeople are safe looking down on what happens. At high tide the salt water comes along the river towards the road crossing and brings with it the mullet, this brings the Barramundi . Both fish get to the crossing with the flow of water and now have to get across the piece of road . Even with the high tide the crossing is not as deep as the river and has rocks deposited in the way so they rush across in a narrow band of water straight into the mouths of the waiting salt water crocodiles.
 
  The crocs spend their days on both sides of the crossing up and down the river.
 
  As the salt water tide flows in they gather mostley on the fresh side of the river and wait.


  They now it is easier to catch the fish as they wriggle across in the small area. The larger crocs taking best spots.
 
  There are two about 4 metre crocs ,with trackers on them , that take up front running , just laying there mouth open ready to snap shut on a fish. When we watched we would have seen about 50 crocs. The little ones and probably the ladies staying out of the way of the big boys. The water gets to about 1 metre deep on the crossing and some people drive across or stand very close to the water, some fishing, stupid as you don't see the crocs unless they want you too.They can hide in knee deep water waiting to grab whatever comes close.
 
   
 

There is also a walk along the river which we did , you don't get close to the waters edge without a barrier. There is a large red flying fox daytime camp along here very noisy but fun watching them argue over space.
 

On one of our days at this place we go to Ubirr pronounced OO-beerr , the most well known of the rock art sites. On our way there it was low tide so we drove over into Arnhem land turned and came back and we did spot a croc on our way back.
 
 
The area of Ubirr is right on the border with Arnhem land and under indigenous control and not burnt all the time and it was full of life both plant and animal. I have put photos of what I thought was the best so read the photo of sign too. 

 
The area of the camp site has aBorder store that not only sells the usual drinks ,snakes, fishing gear, souvenirs it is also a Thai take away restaurant but a bit expensive .
We stop at Mamukala wetlands on our way out of Kakadu and found a big monitor lizard under the bird hide., then watched a couple of kingfishers pluck tiny frogs out of the tops of the pandanus plants, life is hard.
 

 
Our next stop is at the Bark hut inn still on the Arnhem hwy but just out of Kakadu. We stay here so we can go look at The Mary river National park.