This afternoon I was exploring the historic walled port city of Famagusta. Normally these are offered as day tours from the south including a visit to the ancient city of Salamis but I wasnt a fan of big bus tours and wanted to stay overnight to spend time on the Turkish side and not be so rushed.
The outer walls of the city are more intact and visible than in Nicosia which has a lot of urban development masking the walls. I made my way to the centre to reach the historic landmarks.
First was the medieval St Peter and St Paul Church but it was closed. Beside were the ruins of the Venetian Palace. Adjacent was the Nemuk Kemal Dungeon but it had closed for the day.
Making my way to the centre was the imposing gothic St Nicholas Cathedral, the main landmark of the city. The Kings of Jerusalem were crowned here. Under Ottoman times this was converted to a Mosque and renamed the Lala Mustapha Pasha Mosque.
As with the converted Mosques in Nicosia, as they were built as Churches the orientation is not towards Makkah.
Heading out from the centre I lost my bearings on the winding streets and thought I was a different spot on my map. I came to the ruins of St George of the Greeks Church but thinking I was further north on my map.
These were just derelict ruins and used by locals to walk across or kids to play. I made my way to the other city walls and was trying to find Othello's Castle.
I was now getting very confused trying to follow my map as I was further south than I thought and ended up at the Canbalut gate in the south east corner. I then made my way up to the Porte del Marc bastion. Here you could climb up and see the old town skyline or look out to sea. Famagusta faces the Holy Lands hence its importance.
I then found the Othello castle but it was closed. Across was the ruins of St George of the Latins. I then followed my map for a walking tour to the north west where there was a cluster of more buildings.
I was able to find them all but they had all either closed for the day or do not allow public access. Tired of walking in the sun I made my way back to the centre.
Next I made my way back to the Canbulat Gate in the south west to exit out from the old town. Adjacent you can get to the militarized zone and see some of the damaged buildings from the civil war of 1974.
There were soldiers on lookout and warning signs about taking pictures. You cant actually go into the military zone where the damaged buildings are but can see a few from the distance. Others have been taken over the military.
This was meant to be a 'ghost city' but as I couldnt see much and there was too much military presence I didnt want to do all the walking so just went back to the old town.
I didnt see much choice for dinner so just went back to my hotel to rest. Unlike the walled city of Nicosia there was less to see in Famagusta as so little survives and is mostly in ruins. I also hardly saw any tourists here. Perhaps they are less comfortable coming to the Turkish north alone and only come on bus tours.
I will probably come back to visit next time I'm in Nicosia as its only an hour by bus, or maybe come on a bus tour to get more of an explanation of the ruins though I hate bus tours moving in slow motion as my pace is much quicker.
2025-05-23