Castle Mountains & White Sulphur Springs

Saturday, June 20, 2020
Castle Town, Montana, United States
Well, my second road trip of the summer season is upon me.  It’s only partly a road trip, though, centered around a six-day canoe trip through the Missouri Breaks, something I’ve been interested in doing for a while.  I always try to make a bigger and more relaxed trip out of such things, rather than just rushing there and back, in this case planning some hikes on the way to and back from Fort Benton where the trip starts in what are called the “Island Ranges”.
Montana’s general topography is mountains in the west and plains in the east, but it’s actually far more complex that that.  There are broad dry valleys between the mountain ranges in the western part of the state but also mountain ranges in the center well east of the main ranges of the Rockies. That keeps things interesting. They are called island ranges because they are like elevated islands of green, each surrounded by prairies and plains, unlike the interconnected ranges of the spine of the Rocky Mountains.
The Castle Mountains are one such range a little southwest of center of the state, truly in the middle of nowhere. One of my guidebooks includes a hike in the range I thought I’d try.  I have to admit that my expectations for spectacular scenery were not high, but I was still hoping for some good views as well as pretty surroundings.  And the unpaved road through the range is definitely rugged, one I’m quite sure I wouldn’t have been able to tackle in my Buick.
Maybe the most interesting thing in the range is the ghost town named Castle, briefly a significant mining town during the 1890s.  It went bust as quickly as it boomed when the ore ran out.  What remains now is just a handful of atmospheric decaying buildings on what’s apparently private property. There doesn’t seem to be any attempt to preserve what’s still there.
I concluded from my drive that the Castle Mountains are far more popular with motor sports enthusiasts than hikers. I passed multiple groups of people on ATVs but didn’t see another hiker on the route. I’m guessing it appeals largely to the same kind of people who are into snowmobiling.
My hike turned out to be a bit of a disappointment. The trail was rerouted from the Grasshopper Creek campground along a not very scenic road that’s closed to motorized vehicles. I probably walked three miles to a spot that was very unclear how to reconnect with the route described in my guidebook that I hoped to take.  And what started out as a beautiful morning clouded over and started to get sprinkly.  Luckily, the steadier rain didn’t begin until after I abandoned my quest and got back to the car much earlier than I expected.
Well, they say that when life gives you lemons, make lemonade.  White Suplphur Springs is a tiny town without a lot to do, but they do have a decent microbrewery that was worth exploring.  It seemed like half the town was at the 2 Bassett Brewery that afternoon, social distancing somewhat and also spilling out onto the covered front deck.  And why is it so cold on the first day of summer?
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