Dave chose to stay in the uncomfortable Hassel Island anchorage knowing that Pete's flight would arrive after dark on April 2. The dinghy ride back from nearby Crown Bay Marina in the dark seemed less worse than landing the dinghy on shore and re-launching in the dark in Lindbergh Bay – the anchorage location we would prefer in the future for daylight arriving guests. There is no secure way to lock the dinghy on the beach at Lindbergh Bay – even if one person could haul it out of the water and far enough up the beach.

Dave directed Pete to get a taxi from the airport to Crown Bay Marina, and then find him in "Tickles" bar located within the marina. Pete arrived as scheduled and we were able to make our way back to Pas de Deux after introducing him to the local beer….

We departed the Hassel Island anchorage as soon as possible the next morning, before most of the ferry traffic started, and motored in light winds to an intermediate stop in Jersey Bay where we made a dinghy visit to the St. Thomas Budget Marine chandlery. Dave purchased enough length of the line needed to replace the mainsail halyard. After that short stop we motored and then sailed on building east wind to the day moorings at Henley Cay, adjacent to Caneel Bay, St. John for a lunch and snorkel stop. Then it was a quick motor to a mooring at Caneel Bay for the overnight. Pete was settled in by now and was well into his box of cigars.





Pete had never visited the Virgin Islands before, so he was willing to go anywhere. His one specific request was to get in some fishing. Ask and ye shall receive. Then again, “fishing” is not the same as “catching”….

On April 4, we departed Caneel Bay and headed straight south out into deep water towards St. Croix to get in some of that fishing. A drop off to deep water – and deep water fishing – is only a few miles south of all the US and British Virgin Islands. Our plan was to sail and fish straight south, reaching on east winds, then turn around mid-day for the sail back on a close reach to Salt Pond Bay, St. John for the night – and hopefully a fish dinner.

With modest winds at only 5-10 knots we could not troll fast enough to attract any fish--not even a strike. Almost back into shallow water on the return trip we finally hooked a pretty sizable Blue Marlin. Doing a tail walk for us, we could tell it was a Blue by its pointy tipped dorsal fin versus the rounded tip of a White Marlin. Pete held on for about a minute until the big fish threw the hook – maybe a good thing for us. Neither one of us were looking forward to getting it off the hook by hand. In hindsight, this could be an example of a perfect fishing trip: hook a big fish, watch its acrobatics, then “release” it unharmed - all without getting a bill thrust through your chest. Then eat the last catch you thawed from the freezer, ready to throw on the grill!

Our fishing trip over, Pete was able to get in some snorkeling at Salt Pond Bay after our arrival. Wanting to expose him to more of the Virgin Islands, we planned to clear into the BVI for a few days and get all the way up to North Sound, Virgin Gorda, visiting the popular site known as The Baths on the southern tip of Virgin Gorda along the way. We planned our first stop at the island of Jost Van Dyke—home to Foxy’s—as we could clear in there at Great Harbor. That was the aim, anyway….

We departed the next morning, April 5 for Jost Van Dyke. We had a nice sail around the NE tip of St. John and through the scenic Thatch Island Cut at the west end of Tortola near the harbor of Soper’s Hole. Always looking for a backup anchorage, Dave was concerned that Soper’s Hole looked very crowded as we passed. In fact, there seemed to be more boats everywhere – with lots of kids. Alas, it was Spring Break. This could mean big crowds - and crowded anchorages – everywhere in these popular islands!

Sure enough, arriving in Great Harbor, there was not a vacant mooring ball to be found. And where there was water shallow enough for anchoring in past visits here there were now more mooring balls – all occupied. We implemented Plan B and backtracked to Soper’s Hole where we could also clear into the BVI, hoping the mid-afternoon timing of our arrival would coincide with the daily “charter boat shuffle” as charterers seeking endless variety depart their “daytime” anchorage in mid-to-late afternoon destined for a different “nighttime” anchorage. Unfortunately, Soper’s Hole was overflowing with Spring Break charter boats as well. Similar to Great Harbor, the water is too deep for anchoring outside the mooring field. On to Plan C: motor a short distance to Leinster Bay on the north side of St. John. Being on the USVI side, BVI charter boats would not likely fill this anchorage. This turned out to be a good bet and we finally settled in for a nice evening around 1500 in beautiful Leinster Bay. And it was probably much quieter as well….

Our troubles clearing into the BVI continued the next day, April 6. We departed Leinster Bay, St. John at 0830, passing up a re-try at Soper’s Hole, and had a terrific sail up Drake Channel to Spanish Town, Virgin Gorda, another port of entry. Pete got a good look around Drake Channel in beautiful weather and got in some good sailing as we tacked upwind in ESE 5-12 knots. Our plan was to clear in at Spanish Town and then continue on to North Sound, Virgin Gorda. A pretty significant north swell was running but a short term anchorage off Spanish Town for clearing in purposes seemed tolerable. We arrived late morning off Spanish Town to find the anchorage crowded. We tried several times to get a good hook outside the crowd, but the holding wasn’t good. We even motored the short distance a bit south to Valley Trunk Bay – where we know there’s good sand close to the beach, but the north swell that close in looked problematic. Finally, we had to bail out again to Plan B for that day. We would sail across Drake Channel to the Marina Cay mooring field/anchorage for the night, then return the next morning to Valley Trunk Bay after the north swell was to dissipate and dinghy in to the government offices from there. At least Pete was getting plenty of practice on the anchor windlass!

Arriving at Marina Cay after the short downwind sail we found the same situation as in Great Harbor and Soper’s Hole. Every mooring ball was taken and every shallow anchoring spot outside the mooring field occupied. On to Plan C! We would try nearby Trellis Bay, adjacent to the Beef Island Airport. This popular bay is always crowded, but last year we found a place to anchor in good sand just inside the Bay off the east beach in shallow water suitable for cats and small boats only. Cutting through the anchored boats already there in deeper water was a challenge, but once in water less than eight feet deep we found room enough. We anchored in six feet at low tide. Several charter cats watched and copied us but none positioned upwind of us and we were finally set comfortably for the night.

The next morning we finally succeeded in becoming legal in the BVI after motoring back to Valley Trunk Bay upwind in light conditions. The swell was gone and we got a good hook on the first try in soft sand about 50 yards off the beach. This is a beautiful palm lined white sand beach just north of The Baths. Now our plan was to dinghy into Spanish Town, not too far up the coast to the north, clear in, and buy some groceries. We would then visit The Baths before continuing on to North Gorda Sound later in the afternoon. With the delays we had already encountered clearing in we could now clear in and out simultaneously for three days to cover the rest of our intended stay in the BVI and, thankfully, not have to try to visit a BVI customs location again to clear out.

Everything went as planned this day until we decided to swim to shore from the boat and walk the short distance to The Baths instead of taking the dinghy. You’re not allowed to land dinghies on the beach at The Baths; you must tie up to a communal dinghy mooring off the beach, so we knew we had to swim ashore no matter what. But we erred in assuming that, once on the beach, we could walk along the beach all the way to The Baths. A short beach walk isn’t possible for the full distance as the famous Baths-type boulders completely block one section. From there the walking route requires you to detour to the main road, then to the parking area above The Baths, then back down to the beach. This hike in wet water shoes wasn’t very comfortable!

But reach The Baths we finally did, and Pete enjoyed this marvel of the BVIs. We completed the full round trip route through the boulders and re-traced our steps back to the beach for our return swim off the beach to the boat. The return trip didn’t seem too bad; anticipating the cold beers waiting for us helped! Back aboard, we set full sail for what would be a nice afternoon close hauled in east winds 5-10 into North Gorda Sound, anchoring in Robin Bay. We spent two nights anchored there, traveling by dinghy to visit Saba Rock and The Bitter End resort. It seemed the Spring Break crowd had thinned as there were numerous moorings vacant at both locations.

On April 9 we departed Robin Bay and North Gorda Sound at 0830 via Saba Rock Cut and motored out into Eustatia Sound upwind towards Pajoras Point, at the northeast tip of Virgin Gorda. We exited Eustatia Sound via the cut through the reef at Oil Nut Bay. Rounding Pajoras Point we set the Code 0 in east winds at 8-12 knots. Our plan was to sail south from Pajoras Point until we got to the shelf bordering deep water then turn southwest and follow the shelf, trolling all the way to The Bight, Norman Island, where we’d spend our last night in the BVI with a fresh fish dinner. This would also give Pete the chance to visit the renowned Willy T, a floating bar and restaurant.

Along the way some squalls developed and we had to “downshift” to the genoa as we were going too fast with the Code 0 (a light-wind sail) in the strong winds on the periphery of those squalls. A large pod of spotted porpoises escorted us for awhile, which is always a treat!  The fish weren’t biting, however, and we arrived at the Bight around 1400 without a catch. Many moorings were available and, without adequately considering anchoring along the edge of the mooring field, we picked up a mooring ball. We visited the Pirate restaurant, but skipped the Willy T as we were both too tired. It would be freezer fish for dinner again but, heck, when you have your choice of tuna, mahi mahi, or king mackerel who can complain? During dinner preps the mooring fee collectors arrived and the price was now US$30/night! Perhaps this fee is not much for a charter boat with eight occupants to share; for us we could only regret not exploring for a spot to drop the hook. Thirty dollars will buy a lot of beer….

The next day we departed Norman Island for Cruz Bay, St. John to clear back into the USVI, trolling along the south coast of St. John outside of the charted National Park boundaries. Not even a 'cuda took the bait. After clearing in at Cruz Bay we continued on to St. Thomas to prepare for Pete’s departure the next day. We chose a longer route that would give us one last chance at fishing by sailing south towards St. Croix again out into deep water. We had no luck again until entering back into shallow water near St. Thomas where Pete landed a Little Tunny. It was small and not the best food fish so we threw it back--but not quickly enough to prevent it from bleeding all over the deck. Good thing we were still having fun! We cleaned up the deck and arrived at Lindbergh Bay just steps from the airport at 1700. We had a last relaxing evening together and went to bed exhausted after nine days of nearly non-stop activity. It was a good visit for both of us.