Of all the amazing places, sights and scenery we have experienced in this awesome country of Australia, Lake Ballard rates right near the top for it's raw beauty, stunning landscape, isolation and the amazing 51 sculptures set over a 7.5klm path out onto this muddy salt-pan. leaving Kalgoorlie this morning we had an easy hour drive north to Menzies, an almost ghost town. We traversed very scrubby plains enlivened only by the occasional rocky outcrop, but more often by tailing mounds from numerous Gold mines, large and small.

We stopped at Menzies, a small settlement that like so many had been a bustling centre in the Gold rush days, now, it boasts the Council Chambers, a café, pub/general store, caravan park and an Info Centre Library catering to about 90 locals scattered within many kilometres around. We have visited some townships on our journey that are going through some pain due to drought and the mining downturn, but on the Goldfields the true impact of boom and bust is clear for all to see. Menzies is now a skeleton of its former self, and we leave town a little melancholy considering the could have been's and the empty blocks of land where houses had proudly stood.

About 12klm out of Menzies we halt before we hit the gravel to deflate the tyres and we are soon covered by flies despite a solid wind. Another 45klm of good gravel road passes quickly and we arrive at Lake Ballard's camping area, a free camp at that! Being the rear end of the touring season there are only two other campers in residence in a sprawling designated campsite area of firm sand between small scrubby sand hills. The campsite has a rough beauty about it, however, that is overshadowed by the view across Lake Ballard. A vast dry lake stretches into a mirage broken by numerous scrub covered islands, and immediately in the foreground a perfect conical rugged hill rises about 80 metres high.

Why are we here? To view a stunning collection of 51 sculptures by British Sculptor Antony Gormley to commemorate the 50th anniversary of the Perth International Arts Festival. So spread out are these near life size figures that from the campsite no more than 16 are readily visible, from the crown of the conical hill a further 10 or 11 come into focus but the remaining are far out on this impressive salt pan which stretches from horizon to horizon.

A storm is brewing as we climb down from the hilltop and begin to walk on a well trodden trail around the near figures which, now that we are walking from one to the other, they seem further apart. As we complete a wide loop back to the camp the first spots of moisture can be felt in a stiffening wind. We stop briefly to say hi to our fellow campers then retreat to the Lotus Inn, admire a stunning sunset as it peaks between thunderheads, and the storm hits!

We have not had rain in 8 months, just 2 brief showers, hardly enough to wet the roof. This is serious rain and is accompanied by some very serious lightening. The first of many lightening strikes is the hilltop no more than 200 metres away, and the accompanying thunder clap lifts Evi from her seat and shakes the Lotus. After no more than 20 minutes the campsite resembles a pool and we are trapped inside till morning. We open the door and stick our heads out some time later and a full moon finds a break in the clouds and the conical hill is perfectly mirrored on the now watery lake surface.

Next morning dawns clear, our pool has receded enough for us to have a firm footing. The air is totally clear, the sky cloudless and the lake shimmers in the morning light. This has been an incredible journey seeing the outback and nature at its rawest coupled with a humans statement cast in steel.