Zubiri, Navarre, Spain and Canary Islands
Distance by the guide book - 21.9km
Total distance for the day according to my watch - 25.6km
Well tonight we are feeling our age! Day three of the serious walking and it was not a walk in the park!
The forecast said no rain today so we were a bit wary when we walked out from breakfast at 8am to overcast skies and misty rain. Thankfully, the mist soon cleared without us having to get the ponchos out again and we had a day of lovely sunshine and blue skies.
On leaving Roncesvalles we followed a woodland path passed moss covered trees following the farm paddocks with the cows and their bells tinkling in the distance. There was quite a crowd of pilgrims at this point as we all left Roncesvalles at about the same time. It was only about 3 kms before we walked through the first village of Burguete, a pretty village with a stream channeled down both sides of the narrow main street. We would have missed a turn at the end of the village had it not been for a helpful elderly local leaning out her front door and directing wayward pilgrims towards the right hand turn.
She’s obviously had to do this a few times.
Our first stop of the morning was at Espinal about 7 kms in. We enjoyed a tea break at the local cafe before resuming our hike through a forest. We were lulled into a false sense of security by this time. Strolling along passed daisy meadows, crossing streams, enjoying the sunshine and appreciating the views. Then we came to the first climb! We thought the hard part was over! No one warned us about this day!
We climbed two mountains, one at 955m and one at 810m. All day we ascended and descended. We’d climb up and then we’d climb down and then we’d climb back up again and then we’d climb down again. And so it went for the rest of the day. We were both completely exhausted by the time we finally arrived in Zubiri just before 4pm.
The climbing probably wouldn’t have been quite so bad, had the coming back down not been just as hazardous. There was still a lot of mud around from the previous day’s rain which made things slippery but also we were contending with paths of rocky outcrops where each foot step had to be carefully placed.
I guess after three days of strenuous hiking it’s not surprising that our bodies are starting to object a bit. It will be interesting to see how stiff we are in the morning. Anti-inflammatories are our best friends! It’s also reassuring to talk to fellow walkers and to know that everyone is feeling the same way. Luckily tonight we had booked a private room at the Albergue so we’re really enjoying that treat. Especially after last night where we were completely surrounded by load snorers!
Tomorrows hike into Pamplona looks less challenging. Let’s hope that’s true!
Ange K
2023-04-26
I'm exhausted just reading your blog. I do feel as though I am with you though so that might be appropriate. Your landscape sounds very beautiful.
Jenny
2023-04-26
Hang in there girls…you are doing so well! I am loving this walk via your blog, Leanne! x
Carole
2023-04-26
Wow a big day and tough going, but amazing photos. Hope you recover overnight.
Helen
2023-04-26
You girls are so impressive!
Margot
2023-04-26
Lucky you getting a private albergue. I had to sleep on the floor of a sports stadium in Zubiri, sick as a dog.
Lin
2023-04-26
Wow sounds like I big day …glad you had your private room booked and hopefully an easier day ahead . Really enjoying blog and photos xxxx
Karry
2023-04-26
That does sound like a hard day., hope it gets easier for you. Thank goodness for the sunshine at least.
Allan
2023-04-26
Wow - testing your mettle indeed! I hope thé bodies hold up well for you both. Beautiful countryside. XX
Kathryn
2023-04-26
Nothing will worry you after all these challenging experiences!! Fabulous scenery. Thank you for sharing.
Katherine Reilly
2023-04-26
Let’s hope these first challenging days are followed by some easier walks. Bloody great effort, and yes to anti inflams!!!
Nellie
2023-04-27
Sounds like abit of arough day but tomorrow will be much better I'm sure .Have a good rest
Beth
2023-04-27
One day you'll both look back at that signpost 'Santiago de Compostela 790' and simply think, 'We did it!.' Go girls! Love Beth x
Tomasina
2023-04-27
Well done girls , you are my hero. hopefully will get a little easier for you, thank you for all the great photos. xoxo
Suzanne
2023-04-27
What beautiful countryside. A pity about the mountains, hope you have a flat walk tomorrow. Did you need lots of Voltaren? Hope you walk out the stiffness tomorrow.
Jayne
2023-04-27
That sounds exhausting. Well done to you both
Chris D
2023-04-27
Enjoying tales of your hard slog from the comfort of my armchair.
Joc
2023-04-27
Very arduous so far! You must be getting close to the easy part surely.
Liz
2023-04-28
Well, you are both still smiling after your arduous day. And even with all the ups and downs you got to your accommodation by 4pm. Great work!
Marl
2023-04-29
Keep going, girls. You’re doing well!