Santo Domingo de la Calzada, La Rioja, Spain and Canary Islands
Distance by the guide book - 22.4km
Total distance for the day - 22.3km
Flights climbed - 0
Well how about that! For the first time the guide book has more distance than we do. My app doesn’t credit me with any stairs climbed today but we definitely walked a number of rolling hills today so I feel a bit jipped by that! Our Albergue is just outside of town so I guess we didn’t walk that final .1 of a kilometre. But don’t worry it will be waiting for us tomorrow! We talked about walking into the village to see what it is like but it’s Saturday and everything will be closed and we’re enjoying this afternoon off so much that we haven’t moved anywhere. We’re in a dorm room tonight with 8 bunks. Not too bad though. Quite spacious and we both have a lower bunk which we’re very happy about. We haven’t been in a dorm for a few days so it’s bringing us back to reality. The complex is quite large but they have plenty of seating areas so it doesn’t feel too crowded. They also have a pool. Much too cold to get into but it was great to sit on the side and dangle our weary feet in.
Again we made an early start and left Santo Domingo early at 6am. It is still darkish for about half an hour and by then the sun is coming up. There was a full moon still in the sky which was nice to see. We passed a number of small villages today on our way to Belorado. We stopped at the first, which was Grañón, for breakfast. The cafe was a converted bus but they were very well set up with tables and chairs on a grassed area. It was very pleasant. Much to Sheila’s excitement, while she was lining up for the bathroom, she discovered two more Newfs were walking the Camino. So now there are five of them. Who would have thought!
We also walked through the villages of Redecilla, Castildelgado, Viloria and Villamayor. We stopped again in Viloria for a cup of tea. This time at a cafe that was a donativo, you make a donation for the food you’re given. I had a cup of tea and a lovely homemade shortbread biscuit. It was run by a lovely lady who had all the time in the world for each customer. The villages all had their own unique character.
Someone asked where were all the locals. We rarely see anyone other than the cafe owners in the mornings but come 5 o’clock people start appearing after their siesta. Most Spaniards don’t eat until after 8pm by which time we’re all getting ready for bed after a hard day on the road. The few times we’ve managed to stay up a bit later we’ve seen the bigger towns start coming to life.
One of the reasons the Camino route was revived was to bring life back into the small villages along the way. Many of them were dying, with their young people moving away to find work. The pilgrims on the Camino are a great support to their economy. In 1986, 1800 people walked the Camino. Last year, 414,000 walked it. It is very well supported.
We walked for a while today with a Dutch lady named, Nicole. We met her a couple of days ago in Najera. But today she was having a hard day. She was suffering from bad allergies from the flowers falling from the plane trees and was sniffling and feeling tired. We walked and talked with her for a couple of kms, geeing her along a bit. She made it to Belorado and is sharing our dorm room. She keeps apologising because she knows she’s going to be snoring. Have I talked about the plane trees? I can’t remember. Don’t ever plant one. They look great but the fluffy dandelion-like flower they drop floats around in the air and leaves piles of fluff in places. In some towns it was floating around so much we felt like we’d be swallowing it if our mouths were open!
Kathy, you asked what we are paying for the Albergues. For a bed in a dorm, 12 - 15 euros each. For a private room for 2 we’re mostly paying between 35 and 50 euros. Mostly around the 40 Mark but in desperation for a bed we have gone as high as 65.
Tomorrow we only have a short walk, 12 kms, but both of us feel like we’re getting into the groove now and handling 20ks quite well.
Karry
2023-05-06
Another gorgeous day! You are both doing so well. Enjoy your easier day tomorrow.
Margot
2023-05-06
I’m loving the photos. It’s so not Australia.
Helen
2023-05-06
You girls impress me so much. I think I had better up how far I walk on my beach walks.
Lisa K
2023-05-07
How wonderful that so many people now pass through the small villages every year to inject new life into those communities. Looks like another lovely day there!
Beth
2023-05-07
Keep on keeping on, Leanne & Sheila. You're doing brilliantly. I can understand the 'allergy lady's' woe. x
Ingrid
2023-05-07
Amazing. I know that I certainly wouldnt be able to walk the distances you two are doing. Have you ever thought to do the 4 day march in the Netherlands? 200 km overall. Lots of people do it, so much so, that they closed the registrations for it early. You get a lovely little badge/medal by way of certificate.
Liz Davis
2023-05-07
Yes, it definitely seems like you are both getting into the rhythm of the walk. Lovely that you have a relaxing day tomorrow. You've earned it!
Marl
2023-05-07
Enjoy your easier day tomorrow. Love the entrance with all the flags to your albergue.