Santo Domingo de la Calzada, La Rioja, Spain and Canary Islands
Distance by the guide book - 21.3km
Total distance for the day - 24.4km
Flights climbed - 2
By 7:30 this morning we had walked 6km and were sitting down to have some breakfast in the little village of Azofra. We saw the sun rise behind us as we left Najera. It was crisp and cool and perfect weather for walking. There was a long hill outside of Najera to send us on our way but the slope was gradual so it wasn’t too taxing. The busy little bar was serving the first wave of walkers to hit town with coffee and pastries. I had a buttery soft croissant to die for with my cup of tea.
We are definitely in farming country now. We passed some cow sheds exuding that rich aroma of the country. But mostly today we passed acre after acre of rich red soil planted with grapes, wheat, beans, asparagus, canola and peas. Busy farmers were passing us by on their tractors. The road we were travelling stretched out in front of us, gently undulating over the ground around the crop fields.
They say the Camino is busier than it’s ever been this year and if the line of pilgrims walking in front and behind us is any indication, I’d say they are right.
We walked and talked with quite a few people today. At one point I stopped to take off my top layer as it was getting hotter and to check on a toe that was giving me a niggle and Sheila was so involved in a conversation with another Canadian that she didn’t notice I was missing for about half a kilometre. I wasn’t worried. I figured she’d eventually look behind or wait for me in the next village.
We ran into the other Newfoundland ladies again today. They did sleep in that morning and did manage to find their way back onto the Camino. After a conversation with one of them at our second coffee stop in Ciruena, Sheila’s sussed out their lineage and now knows exactly who they’re related to and what their stories are. As one of their friends said, give them enough time and they’ll find out they’re related in some way!
We walked the last couple of kms with a man it turns out is from the next suburb to us in Brisbane, Carindale. He’s recently retired and fulfilling a few dreams. Tonight he’s staying in the Parador.
One of the swankiest hotels in Spain. We’re a bit jealous! Even though our place is very nice tonight also.
We’d finished our 20kms by lunchtime so we had time to wander around Santo Domingo and do a bit of exploring. We enjoyed the squares, the shopping streets and the cafes but the main attraction for me was the cathedral, not for the heavily ornate carvings or the gold encrusted alters but the hen and the cock in the cage. Legend has it that a couple and their son passed through Santo Domingo and stayed at one of the inns. The innkeepers daughter took a liking to the son but being a devout young man he shunned her advances. Enraged, she hid a silver goblet in his pack and reported him for stealing it. He was sentenced to hang. Returning from Santiago the parents found their son still hanging from the gallows but alive. They rushed to the sheriffs house and found him about to tuck into his dinner. On hearing the parents story he retorted that the son was no more alive than the fowl on his plate. Whereupon the cock stood up and crowed. The son was cut down and pardoned. Since this miracle a cock and a hen have always been kept in the cathedral.
Off to Belorado tomorrow. Another 20 something kilometres. Better get some sleep.
Marl
2023-05-05
Another successful day, I am loving the landscapes! Good idea to start off earlier too, more time to explore and then relax ready for the next day.
Jenny
2023-05-05
More beautiful scenery! You are really settled into life on the Camino now…lovely to see you relaxing and enjoying a glass of vino! x
Claire
2023-05-05
You girls really seem to have hit your stride now, and seem to have a lovely balance of all the Camino offers. Cheers 🍷
Allan
2023-05-05
You seem to have gathered your walking rhythm now - love the cathedral shots - fab columns etc. XX
Andrea
2023-05-05
You’re modern day explorers with a twist girls. Exploring new landscapes, facing challenges, meeting new and interesting people and tasting new culinary delights. You’ve really now found your groove and we’re lucky to be enjoying it with you. A toast to you both🍷
Chris
2023-05-05
I must be getting old and soft , every time I read your posts I start to tear up. I’m so proud of you Lan. Looks and sounds amazing. XX
Katherine Reilly
2023-05-05
Yes, like everyone else here I’m so pleased to be able to follow your daily walks and soak in the sights and sounds of the Camino. Quick question, how much are you paying for a bed each night, knowing that a hotel will be more costly than a hostel?
Karen K
2023-05-05
You are both looking so well and relaxed sitting enjoying lunch in a local cafe. It is easy to forget you’ve just walked over 20 km! Photos and commentary are terrific. Thanks so much Leanne.
Jodie
2023-05-06
Beautiful and relaxing lansdscape. Enjoying your updates. Take care.
Suzanne
2023-05-06
Love the "Miracle" story. The walk is becoming very social.
Beth
2023-05-06
Hi, Leanne. 20km/day is nothing to you girls now! I'd love to 'try out' staying in the Parador, ha ha. Love Beth x
Lin
2023-05-06
Loving your blog and photos . You should look into staying in a Paramore at some stage …you may have plans already. Ken and I travelling with sarah and Lucy stayed in three of them in Spain and they weren’t that expensive …subsidised by government and special rates for golden group …seniors,!!!!!! Stay safe xxxx
Liz Davis
2023-05-07
You are looking very relaxed. Good to see. Liked that story about the hanged but still living boy.
Tomasina
2023-05-07
Love the Story of the Inn keepers daughter, keep the stories coming Leanne Love to see you are supporting the local industry of wine making. I hope it went down well. Enjoy
Karen
2023-05-09
Love the story of the cock and the hen in the cathedral. 🤭