Hornillos del Camino, Castile and León, Spain and Canary IslandsDistance by the guide book - 21km
Total distance for the day - 23.
3km
Flights climbed - 1
Today starts the beginning of our walk across the meseta. The meseta is a high plateau that intersects the Camino between Burgos and Leon. It has an elevation of between 600 and 700 metres. Opinions have varied among pilgrims on the forums that I’ve read. Some say it’s really boring and monotonous and that you should take a bus past this section to avoid it. While others say it was their favourite part of the Camino. I guess we’re about to find out which team we belong to. I personally am looking forward to some long straight, even stretches of track. I may change my tune after a few days of that. Time will tell.
We have been worried about this stage being very hot, because apparently there are long stretches of exposed track with no shade cover and it can get very hot. So we made lots of preparations ready for the heat. We have our sunscreen and sunshirts ready. We have an umbrella we can clip to our packs so we can walk hands free with it and we planned to get an early start each day so we can be finished our walk by lunchtime and sheltering in our Albergues before the real heat of the day hits.
Well, guess what? This part of the country is having a late cold spell! It was 5° when we left Burgos this morning. The wind whipping across some of the flat land has been bitterly cold. We’re in our Albergue in Hornillos now and I don’t think the temperature has risen above 14 degrees yet. I’ve looked at the long range forecast for where we’re going in the next 7 days and I don’t think the temperature is going to vary much except to get colder.
We are rugging up once again. Unfortunately Sheila sent her puffer jacket on to Santiago, thinking there would be no more cold weather on this trip. I think she’s regretting that decision today. I kept mine which I’m very happy about. I took it off for about 200 metres just after Tardejos thinking it was warming up but I was mistaken. It was put back on pretty quickly. Funnily enough, far from avoiding the sun now everyone is sitting out in the back courtyard of the Albergue soaking up the warmth!
The first part of the walk was fairly unremarkable. We tramped out of Burgos into the suburbs. Burgos has a huge display of cast iron figurines. I wish I’d taken photos of more of them. We passed by more as we left town. One surprising sight on our way out of Burgos, a public toilet! I’m sure they have them somewhere in Spain but that was the first one we had seen on our whole trip. If the bars didn’t have facilities we’d be in a bad way!
Once into the suburbs and then out of town there was nothing of particular note to see. We walked about 10kms to the first village of Tardejos where we stopped for breakfast. After Tardejos the landscape became more interesting and prettier. We’re back among the poppies. They brighten everything up. We had one small climb followed by a long descent into Hornillos. The view was spectacular from the top of the hill with a long, winding road stretching out in front of us. And yes, that song plays in our heads all the time!
Hornillos is just a small village. We’re back in a dorm room tonight but luckily both assigned lower bunk beds. Yay! We’re having a pilgrims dinner at the Albergue because I don’t think there’s much choice in town but it sounds alright. Paella, mixed salad and a dessert. We found one nice little restaurant to have lunch in but not much else. We’ve now booked all our accommodation to Santiago which takes a lot of pressure off. It wasn’t a nice feeling wondering if there would be a bed available in the next town. It also took considerable time each night to organise our next few bookings. So it’s a big relief to have it all done and now just to be able to enjoy the walking.
Chris D
2023-05-11
You're both looking very fit. Must have something to do with all that walking! Glad you've managed to get all your future accomodation sorted. It's certainly a relief knowing where you're going to be able to rest your head for the evening. xx
Eydi
2023-05-11
Some of those photos would make a lovely painting. Your day off must have done both of you wonders as you both looked refreshed.
Claire
2023-05-12
Off again on the next leg, looking energetic and ready! Sheila, shame about your puffer, hope you cope okay with the cold. The ol’ weather can trick you time and again. 😎
Marl
2023-05-13
Love all the poppies! You’re doing well and looking fighting fit!
Suzanne
2023-05-14
Love the photos. Do hope Shelia isn`t too cold. Glad you now have all your accommodation booked up.
Liz Davis
2023-05-15
The food itself is making the walk worthwhile. It all sounds delicious. Glad that you have now got your accommodation booked ahead. Worth the effort to be able to relax without that worry hanging you.