Atapuerca, Castile and León, Spain and Canary Islands
Distance by the guide book - 18.3km
Total distance for the day - 19.8km
Flights climbed - 14
We were a little worried we wouldn’t sleep last night with the sound of the trucks whizzing past our window, but surprisingly both of us slept very well. We started our day with a steep climb up Montes de Oca, through a lovely forest of oak and pine. We had lots of early morning birdsong, none of which I could recognise, except the Cuckoo. Until just recently, never having heard one, I thought the Cuckoo was a made up bird just for Swiss clocks, so it was wonderful to hear them in the wild. Their cheerful sound followed us almost all the way to our destination today.
For the first time this morning, we didn’t see any other hikers on the trail for at least two hours except one girl who passed us just as we were leaving town. It was so nice to be walking totally alone. Although I have to say some of the dark forest off to the side of us looked a little bit spooky at times. The pretty pink, purple and yellow flowers in the underbrush made a nice contrast to the deep greens of the trees.
The first stop of the day wasn’t until we’d walked 12 Km to San Juan Ortega. Our longest early morning hike yet. We could have stopped about 4km before that at a van but he didn’t look to have anything particularly appetising for sale and his only seating was outside. In 5 degree weather that was even less appealing! We enjoyed our break in San Juan where the seating was still outside but in the sunshine and the food selection a bit more varied.
The coffee apparently was worthy of a second cup, at least according to Sheila! Who, by the way, didn’t meet another Newfie this time but a Canuck with a Newfie best friend why just happened to live next door to Sheila as kids. Sheila knew the whole family very well. It’s a small world!
The Camino is so busy this year. Everyone is fighting for the available beds. It was sad to see some walkers cueing already at the municipal Albergue. It was only 10am and the Albergues don’t usually open until 1pm. Sheila and I have prebooked most of our accommodation now. Just a few places at the end we still have to secure. Hopefully by tomorrow we will have them done and then we can stop our nightly ritual of searching for beds. It has been quite labour intensive finding places.
We passed through the charming village of Ages about 4km further on. It would be one of my favourites so far. So much charm and character.
We’re staying the night in Atapuerca. About 3km from Atapuerca they discovered the earliest human remains in Europe. The archeological dig, which is still ongoing, points to human activity going back 1.4 million years. We didn’t get to see the site. That will have to wait for another visit.
The sign at the front of our Albergue tonight says 501km to go. It’ll be exciting to hit the 400s tomorrow. Today we looked at the distance we had to cover and thought 18km was a short day. We had a laugh at ourselves! Really looking forward to reaching Burgos tomorrow and having a day off!
Karry
2023-05-08
No pictures of the charming village?
Marl
2023-05-08
I can see why you are loving the villages. That hill is a big one, lucky you did it early. I’m glad you’ve got your accommodation sorted, it would be a worry otherwise.
Jenny
2023-05-08
You girls are moving along now so well and I hope you are getting as much enjoyment from the Camino as I am reading your blog…YOU’VE GOT THIS!!
Helen Leben
2023-05-08
Love the look of some of the villages you are passing through & by the sound of it your bodies are getting used to the daily walking. Fantastic effort for sure.
Margot
2023-05-08
I’m loving the photos, especially the villages. It’s a shame you missed the dig in Atapuerca but you’ll see of lot of the stuff they’ve found in the museum in Burgos. Enjoy your day off.
Jayne
2023-05-08
I think you certainly earned a day of rest !
Chris
2023-05-08
Pictures are a great additive Lan. I’m really getting to recognise Shiela from behind. 😎😎
Helen
2023-05-08
Leanne, I now have two friends following your blog and also loving it. You are getting quite the following!
Beth
2023-05-08
You continue to amaze and inspire me, Leanne. Would love to hear a cuckoo in the wild one of these days. x
Karen K
2023-05-08
You are really into the swing of the walk now Leanne. I’m pleased you’ve secured accommodation ahead - you can enjoy your evenings more if you are not constantly trying to find somewhere to sleep. Well done to you both.
Ange K
2023-05-09
You two are incredible and inspiring. I can just picture the spookiness of walking through the middle of the forest with no other walkers. Great now that your accommodation is sorted so that night times are now for partying 😅 Thanks for so much sharing 😃
Liz Davis
2023-05-09
Such a variety of photos, Leanne, all very interesting. You have a good eye for a charming photo. Walking along that path with the forest on either side looks great even if you felt it was a bit spooky.
Kathryn
2023-05-09
Halfway- well done. So many lovely photos. How will you cull/ sort them. Playing bridge at the moment- on a bye!!!
Suzanne
2023-05-09
I am impressed by how many people Shelia "knows". It`s a small world once you go travelling.
Karen
2023-05-10
You have a fine way of describing the trail Leanne. I can almost hear the cuckoos and feel the spirit of the forest. Stay safe. Love to you both 🦋
Jackie
2023-05-10
Some of the villages look like time has passed them by-but they all seem to have such a charm about them. You girls are really hitting your stride now & nearly at the halfway mark. It was 8 degrees here yesterday morning & I couldn't get out from under the covers-so I am in awe of you two!!
Jenny
2023-05-10
Haven't commented before, but have just read your last week of posts - What a lovely experience you are having. I can see that all that training is paying off!! Your photos are so enjoyable, especially since you have captioned them. Vicariously making the journey with you!!
Tomasina
2023-05-13
Hi ladies, The villages remind me of my home land, The food looks mouth watering, Sheila you look deep in thought and a little tired. I think you have it all down to a T. Keep the photos coming Leanne. XOXO