Stage 37 - Portomarin to Palas de Rei

Tuesday, May 30, 2023
Palas de Rei, Galicia, Spain and Canary Islands
Distance by the guide book - 24km
Total distance for the day - 26. 2km 
Flights climbed - 9
We thought we’d get up and away a half hour earlier this morning and try to beat some of the crowds onto the track. So just as the sun was rising we were walking out of Portomarin. It seemed like a few other people had the same idea but the numbers were down which was nice. 
We’d decided that since we had 24km to do today that we’d try to get a good portion done before we stopped for breakfast. Sheila set a cracking pace early on and even with a few hills we were averaging just over 12 mins a kilometre. She walks a lot faster than me on the flat so I’m used to pulling up the rear. I can generally catch up a bit when we hit a hill but today she was on a mission!  The first cafe popped up after about 7 kms and we lost 90% of the crowd as they stopped for a break. We walked on until about 12 kms before we stopped and apart from 1 or 2 other people we had that section of the track to ourselves. 
We were feeling quite good about our decision to leave early at this point since it seemed for the most part to be working. However, just as we finished eating our breakfast and were getting ready to leave again we watched a large coach pull up and thirty Japanese tourists got off it and started to hike!  You can’t win, you just have to embrace it!  They were all a bit doddery (probably in their 60s and 70s like us! Haha) and we caught up with them quite quickly.  As we walked passed them their tour guide asked Sheila where we’d started our walk. She relayed the information to the pack that we’d started in the Pyrenees and there was shock and awe at our strength and stamina!!
The cafe we’d stopped in was serving a delicious potato tortilla. It was huge and very filling. The powerhouse at the front of the pack was slowed down by a full stomach so I got to take the lead for a while. The walk was very enjoyable but not many photos were taken today since the scenery was very similar to yesterdays with forests, woodlands and farmland.  One interesting sight that seems to be common to Galacia are the Horreos. These are an above ground granary and were, and still are in some cases, used to store fruit and vegetables. They’re built on stilts to keep the rodents out and the sides of the very old ones generally had wooden slats that allow the air to pass through them and ventilate the space. The newer ones often seem to have brick sides. The bricks have holes in them for ventilation as well. Some are quite decorative with carvings etc on the sides.  
Again we were surrounded by fog for most of the morning. It seems to lift around midday and by mid afternoon the rain has set in. We got quite a steady downpour for a couple of hours this afternoon. Luckily we were already in Palas de Rei and settled in our Albergue. We’d gone out to do some exploring of the town but had to take shelter in a bar when it started to rain. It took a couple of glasses of wine before the shower had cleared enough for us to venture out again. 
We’re back in a dorm again tonight. This will be our last dorm for the trip and it’s quite a nice one. Our room has beds for 7 but only 5 are occupied at the moment. From now on its twin rooms all the way to Santiago!
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Comments

Chris
2023-05-30

Now I’m getting really excited for you. Xx

Helen D
2023-05-30

A cracking pace set by Shiela! Well done you, Leanne. Glad you beat the rain to town.

Karry
2023-05-30

Tourist buses? Wow thought you would have escaped that. I love the tree avenues.

Beth
2023-05-30

Sending you both love and encouragement, Leanne. X

Kathryn
2023-05-30

An average of 12km per hour. Great stuff! A busload of tourists is unexpected,but nothing should surprise these day! However, you have achieved the 'higher ground ' no matter what. Enjoy those remaining kilometres.

Allan
2023-05-31

The granaries are gorgeous - all rural areas in Europe seem to have their own construction specialties - you’ve done an amazing pace throughout! XX

Marl
2023-05-31

Sheila can see the finish line! 🤣

KR
2023-05-31

Getting closer and closer to the end. What’s the plan after you get to there? A week at a five star hotel? You deserve it. When are you home?

Suzanne
2023-05-31

Well done for beating the rain. Lovely photos, it must be quite mystical walking through the fog. Hopefully you avoid the bus load of Tourists tomorrow.

Ange K
2023-05-31

Phew... I was a bit concerned yesterday ... for some reason 'Stage 36' didn't come through ... so I was relieved today when I saw that something came through today. I've never seen that type of granarie before - certainly built for conditions. The awe and wonder that the Japanese tourists felt is also being felt by this armchair traveller 😅 I'm sure you'll be a talking point around some Japanese dinner tables. Have fun as you near the finish line.

Karen
2023-05-31

I,too am shocked and awed by your strength and stamina. I salute you.

Chris D.
2023-05-31

Amazing progress Leanne and Sheila. So good that you've been able to appreciate the bulk of the journey without having to share the experience with too many fellow travellers.

Liz Davis
2023-06-03

You'll be talked about in Japan when they pass on the information on about your fabulous stamina. Not long now before a well-deserved rest.

2025-05-22

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