Molinaseca, Castile and León, Spain and Canary Islands
Distance by the guide book - 21.3km
Total distance for the day - 20.9km
Flights climbed - 6
This morning as we walked we voted this day our favourite walk on the Camino. It had it all. Mountain views, wildflowers, forests, charming villages and bird song. We took so many photos because everywhere you looked was gorgeous. We’d climbed up a fair way yesterday and still had about 100 metres of climbing to do this morning. It seemed to take no time at all before we reached the highest point of 1505 metres at the Cruz de Ferro. The Iron Cross is a famous stopping place on the Camino. Pilgrims are encouraged to bring a rock from home and leave it at the cross, symbolising leaving your burdens behind. I don’t know if we left our burdens behind but a couple of little pieces of Mount Gravatt now live in Spain.
A short way on we passed the abandoned village of Manjarin, population 1. Tomas is the only official resident of the village these days. I believe there is an Albergue there that you can stay in but the very basic facilities didn’t sounds too inviting to us for an overnight stay.
The walk was so beautiful with the colours and the smells of the wildflowers following us all morning that we hardly noticed the climbing that had to be done. As we looked across at the mountains and valleys we were reminded of how far up we had come. As mountains like to do it went up and down and up again until we reached the second peak of Alto Altar. Just breathtaking! Sheila and I sat on some rocks and ate a snack while just taking in the grandeur of the views all around us.
It was at this point our feelings for the day took an abrupt about turn because what goes up must come down and we began the 650 metre very steep descent off the mountain to the valley below. It was a rocky and treacherous path. Halfway down there was some welcome relief upon reaching the mountain village of El Acebo. We found a great little cafe right at the start of the village selling homemade treats and according to Sheila, the best coffee she’s had on the Camino. We took off our shoes and let our feet and toes have a breather from the constant pressure of being pushed forward in our shoes.
We had another couple of hours of downhill slog before the day was over. Thankfully not quite as steep as the first part down to El Acebo but each step had to be carefully placed to avoid obstacles. Our knees, ankles and feet are going to be complaining tomorrow, I feel.
Tonight we’re in the village of Molinaseca. There was such relief when the village came into view. When Sheila and I made all our accommodation bookings it was such a process that we ended up using different methods of acquiring the bookings. We have a long list now of where we’re staying, who made the booking, via WhatsApp, booking.com or phone, whether or not it’s paid for etc. Tonight’s booking was made on WhatsApp by me. We’re at a Casa Rural. That’s like a rented room in a home. When we arrived in Molinaseca the Casa Rural was locked and no one was around. Not a good start. I found the WhatsApp thread with the booking and re read the message which said to let them know when we were close. So I sent a message to let them know we were here. Bearing in mind that I write in English. They reply in Spanish. I put the message into Google Translate to read it. And then reply again. Anyway the owner turned up half an hour later to let us into the house and it turns out we’re the only ones here tonight and we have the whole house to ourselves. What a treat!
So to break down our day…first half of the day - best day ever. Second half of the day - nightmare! Tomorrow hopefully no more horrible rocky paths.
Helen D
2023-05-23
What a day of highs and lows! So many awesome views.
Joc
2023-05-23
Nice to be back to awesome views even if they do come with mountains!
Jenny
2023-05-23
My feet are aching just looking at that treacherous path! Outstanding views though!
Claire
2023-05-23
Such stunning views, a beautiful reward for some of the boring slog days for sure! I could feel my toes hurting as you described those challenging downhill parts. Those kms are disappearing now!
Beth
2023-05-23
The house to yourselves! Worth all the down-hill pain, I'll bet. What a super day you had, overall. x
Helen
2023-05-23
I particularly love the photo where we see your backs and you are looking to the mountains in the distance. Also love that there is a small bit of Mt Gravatt on the Camino.
Chris
2023-05-23
Spectacular. Such great memories to bank forever. Xx
Karry
2023-05-23
It does look stunning, glad you got a treat at the end of that downhill slog.
Marl
2023-05-23
What a wonderful day. The views are amazing. Glad you both survived the downhill path unscathed too.
Lisa K
2023-05-23
You two are absolute legends! 🤗 Great photos and sounds like you’ve had an amazing day. HAPPY (Australian) BIRTHDAY SHEILA! 🎉💞🎉 Have a wonderful Spanish celebration tomorrow.
Margot
2023-05-23
You don’t get those gorgeous views without climbing upwards. It’s worth the effort, your photos are glorious.
Karen
2023-05-24
You must be so proud of yourselves…such an achievement.it must be ver spiritual at times.🙏🏼
Chris D
2023-05-24
Happy birthday Sheila! I hope tomorrow's trek offers you plenty of highs and no downs.
Ange K
2023-05-24
Happy Birthday Sheila 😍🎂 Good idea about the spreadsheet ... I only used a couple of different platforms to book and was able to carry a paper copy!!! But you guys don't have that luxury. I recall when we got to Monterosso, apparently we had a similar arrangement with regard to giving a notification as to a specific arrival time, however I had booked months prior and so forgotten that little detail 😂 Fortuneately for us there was someone else arriving and they had already called the owner. Take care of those knees and feet you two. Xxx
Carole
2023-05-24
What amazing views, glad you survived the downhill part. Enjoy the accommodation to yourselves shame we can’t see the photos. Xx
Suzanne
2023-05-24
What a wonderful day you have had. Glad you made it safely down the hill. The colours in your photos are so vibrant. A special treat having the accommodation all to yourselves, hope you had a good evening meal. Happy Birthday to Shelia.
Liz Davis
2023-05-28
Beautiful photos again today. The Camino is such a roller coaster of emotions for you both. Glad that there are a lot of ups (in more ways than one) to counteract the downs!