Bercianos del Real Camino, Castile and León, Spain and Canary Islands
Distance by the guide book - 26.9km
Total distance for the day - 26.4km
Flights climbed - 3
The guide book suggested a quieter and more scenic route to take this morning out of Ledigos rather than following the main Camino path. Best of all, it was a short cut that took 600m off the distance. It skirted through farmland instead of following the main road which was very peaceful in the early morning. 3 kms on and we passed through Terradillos. This town was our original choice of places to stay. We’d tried to book here but again there was no accommodation available for us. We think we lucked out really because Ledigos was such a lovely stop. There didn’t seem to be much to see or do in Terradillos.
We’d chosen Moratinos as our first stop for the day. It was about 6.5 kms into our walk. We thought we were going to be disappointed when the cafe appeared to be closed but luckily a nice man outside stamping credentials told us it was open. The door was closed, of course, because it was 4° outside and they had the heaters on, thank goodness. We had the best fried eggs on toast there. A lovely taste of home. We had our credentials stamped when we left by the man outside who was using wax and gold and silver markers to make beautiful stamps. In case you’re wondering what a credential is, it’s like a passport that proves the distance you’ve walked. We have to get a stamp each day along the Camino. At the end of the walk in Santiago our credential will be checked and we’ll receive a certificate of completion.
On the hillside near Moratinos several bodegas can be seen built into the hill. These were once used for food and wine storage, some still are. We liked Moratinos. It was a pretty little village that seemed to have some character and community spirit.
We reached the town of Sahagun just about lunch time. This was a momentous occasion because Sahagun is the geographical midway point on the Camino Frances. We personally think it was a good few kilometres back on the trail but this is the recognised half way point. It’s all downhill from here! The mileage numbers are in the 300s now. Sahagun is also a nice town. Probably worthy of more exploration than we had time for. We stopped for lunch but unfortunately we had another 10 kms to go so had to keep moving.
A lot of the walking today was much the same as yesterday except that there were a few twists and turns and hills to break up the monotony. On the last 10 kms we walked in pretty much a straight line but the path was lined with trees providing shade which somehow made it seem so much better. The trees have obviously been planted for just that reason so well done to whoever started that initiative.
It’s a strange thing when you’re walking, you see, usually a church spire in the distance, and you think, ‘Yay. There’s the village’. And then you walk for another 3-5kms before you get to that village! It seems to take forever sometimes, especially if it’s at the end of the day and you’re feeling tired.
We eventually walked into Bercianos.
Right at the beginning of town we passed a large modern Albergue that looked great. It wasn’t ours. We walked on. We passed another Albergue that looked good. Still not ours. We walked on, and on and the town got more dilapidated and worn looking. Finally we saw a sign to our Albergue. When we saw the entrance we both thought, ‘OMG! What have we gotten ourselves into here’. Picture an old Western movie where the hero is down in Mexico and about to go into a rough and tumble bar. It was the only accommodation left in town so we were going to have to suck it up no matter what it was like. We went through the doorway and into a courtyard where a big old fat Spanish man was sitting looking a bit drunk. He said in a very gruff voice as we passed him, ‘Where you from?’ We said Australia and that was greeted with approval.
We found the owner who took us up to our room which to our surprise is delightfully renovated. It turns out first impressions can be wrong. The place is owned by Maria and Sante. Maria seems to run the show. Sante looks after the bar and does whatever Maria yells at him to do. He doesn’t speak English but he entertained us during dinner all through gesture and his interpreter, another Spanish guy with good English. We’ve had a delightful night here. Sante and Maria have walked the Camino seven times.
We’ve run into a few familiar faces here tonight. You meet people, see them for a day or two and then loose track of them. It’s always nice when they pop back up unexpectedly.
Another long walk tomorrow but one day closer to Leon and our day off!
Eydi
2023-05-16
You both must be feeling very proud of your accomplishment in knowing you’ve made it to the half way mark without any major hiccups. I bet it’s a good feeling knowing you’re below the 400 km mark too. Get lots of needed rest as this daily trekking can be pretty taxing on the body.
Joc
2023-05-16
It must feel good to be eating up those kilometres!
Helen L
2023-05-16
Congratulations on reaching the half way mark -loving all your photos and commentary.
Jenny
2023-05-16
YAY!! Halfway and still going strong…well done girls! So glad your ankle seems to be behaving too.. once again walking under clear blue skies..you definitely chose the right time of year for your trek.x
Helen D
2023-05-16
Halfway, fantastic! Just goes to show, you can't judge a book by its cover! Your mornings are a tad cool but what wonderful blue sky days you are enjoying.
Ange K
2023-05-16
Woo Hoo ... halfway, downhill and best eggs 😉 Don't you just love a surprise when the inside of your accommodation is better than the outside. So happy for you both. I am glad everything is going so well 👏
Karen
2023-05-17
Those meals look delicious…perfect for keeping the strength up. I was wondering about the half way point. Congrats.
Andrea
2023-05-17
Yeah! Once you reach the halfway mark, time seems to fly. You’ll be finished in no time. 👍 The Paella looks delicious. Go girls🥰
Suzanne
2023-05-17
Congratulations, half way! So true, you can`t judge a book by its cover. One of the best things about travelling you never know what you may find behind an old door, wall or gate. Enjoy your rest day. Love the photos.
Carole
2023-05-17
Still really enjoying your adventures Leanne. It all sounds and looks soo interesting. Glad the alburgue turned out to be great. Good luck tomorrow. Over half way yay!,!
Helen
2023-05-17
Big big congratulations on being over half way!
KR
2023-05-17
Brilliant achievement so far girls. Full of admiration, and a little jealous of this unique adventure. And you’ve answered another question, what happens when nature calls?
Chris
2023-05-17
Nice one girls. Halfway is amazing. I walked 7.2 kms yesterday around the bay in the Inner West and my calf’s and buttocks are squealing today. Puts what you are doing into perspective. Xx
Jenny
2023-05-17
Loving your journey Leanne. Travelling and enjoying it vicariously with you!!
Karry
2023-05-17
Yah you’ve made it half way. Well done girls and I love the look of your ALbirgue
Claire
2023-05-18
Great stuff girls! Over half way! That’s seriously impressive 👍. Enjoy your well- deserved and hard-earned rest day coming up.
Ann-Maree
2023-05-19
I feel like a proud parent. Well done girls. Thoroughly enjoying the commentary and photos. Keep up the excellent progress.
Liz Davis
2023-05-19
Was that Paella for dinner? It looked delicious.