Cacabelos, Castile and León, Spain and Canary IslandsDistance by the guide book - 20km
Total distance for the day - 25km
Flights climbed - 8
Happy 70th birthday, Sheila.
How many 70 year olds can say they celebrated that milestone by walking 800 kilometres across Northern Spain?
We had a lovely stay in Molinaseca in our own private little casa, what a treat that was, but after that downhill slog yesterday we were feeling a little battered this morning. There were a few more aches and pains than normal. We took it easy and just set a steady pace towards Cacabelos, our stop for the night.
Our first break for the day was in Ponferrada. Compared to most of the small villages we’ve passed through lately, Ponferrada is a thriving city. It boasts a large castle built by the Knights Templar in the 12th to 14th century as its centrepiece. We seemed to walk for ages through the satellite suburbs surrounding Ponferrada, some of them looking quite well to do.
Once back out in the countryside it was obvious that grapes were the most important crop being grown commercially in this area. Wine making is a major industry locally. It was great to see also all the small backyard vegetable plots being tended lovingly by their owners.
Some of the plots were quite large actually and didn’t seem to have a house attached to them. They reminded me of the vegetable allotments you see in England. They seemed to be a plot of land bought specifically for growing fruit and vegetables.
It was warmer when we got up this morning, 10° as opposed to the 4° we’ve been starting off with lately. As we were coming into Cacabelos though we could feel the temperature rising. It reached a high of 28° today. That was hot enough for us to be out walking. It made us all the more grateful that we didn’t have to deal with those sorts of temperatures while crossing the Meseta. Luckily most of our day’s walks are done by 2pm so we’re able to check in, shower and relax through the hottest times of the day. It still surprises us that the hottest time of the day is usually around 6 pm in the evening!
Cacabelos is a lovely village. It only has about 5,500 people but it’s a thriving small town with lots of facilities and services. We’re staying tonight in a twin room in a very nice hostel.
Strangely, we had to check in 500 metres away in one of the hotels, where we were given the keys and sent off down the road to the hostel. Because it’s Sheila’s birthday I’d decided that a massage would be a great way to celebrate the occasion especially given the descent we had yesterday. I’d tried a couple of places online and had no luck booking in but I thought I’d try my luck with the girl on reception and see if she could recommend someone. She gave us Felix’s contact information. Oh what a find!
We had a funny conversation over the phone. He didn’t speak English and we can’t speak Spanish but we hoped he was saying he could fit us in at 4:30. We sent him a Google translated message confirming the appointment and just hoped it worked out. As it turned out there was just him and he did the massages back to back. 45 minutes each for 28 euros each. He was excellent. Worked all the sore spots out and found a few we didn’t even know about!
We went back to the hotel where we’d checked in for dinner and had a lovely birthday dinner for Sheila. A big plate of roast veggies with beef cheeks and pork ribs, delicious. I think Sheila will remember her 70th birthday.
Enid
2023-05-24
Oh a massage 💆♀️ would be divine and your dinner sounded awesome too...love beef cheeks. A great way to celebrate a new decade . So we met 54 years ago Sheila not a lot of people can beat that . See you both in Santiago for another celebration.
Marl
2023-05-24
Sounds like a great day to celebrate your milestone birthday, Sheila. I think it’s amazing you’ve done 600kms, not far to go! Happy Birthday again!!
Lorna
2023-05-24
Happy birthday Sheila. What a way to spend your special day! I’ve been following your journey thanks to Eydi. She sent me the link. 😁 I actually look forward to it daily. We finally had a warm spring day here in Gander. 19 in my yard this afternoon. The capris came out today!! Enjoy the rest of your adventure. You both are accomplishing something that I’d never attempt. You’re doing great!!
Lin
2023-05-24
Well done ladies on your great walking and a very happy birthday to you Sheila xxx
Karen K
2023-05-24
Happy birthday Sheila! A memorable milestone on the Camino.
Allan
2023-05-24
Sounds like a memorable birthday for Sheila on all counts - glad you were able to relax and enjoy after your last few days. Great photos. XX 🎉🥂🎂🥂🎉
Claire
2023-05-24
Well done Leanne for finding a massage- what a treat that must have been for the birthday girl and yourself! I love the lippy on you both when you were out to celebrate as you headed out to dinner. A wonderful day for a significant birthday and now into the 100s to go! So impressive!
Joc
2023-05-24
Happy birthday, Sheila! A memorable massage, day, and meal. 🥂
Jenny
2023-05-24
Good on you girls for treating yourselves to a well deserved massage! And, Happy Birthday Sheila…perhaps our paths may cross one day..what a memorable birthday this one will be!
Nellie
2023-05-24
HappyBirthday shelia on your big day ,hope you enjoyed the massage.
Andrea
2023-05-24
So glad you were able to celebrate with relaxation, good accommodation and a good meal on your 70 th birthday Sheila. Live it up … there’s not far to go now. 🎉🍷🎶
Chris
2023-05-24
Happy Birthday Sheila. What a way to spend it. 70 is a big one to celebrate. You are an inspiration to all of us about to get there.Xx
Helen
2023-05-24
Happy 70th birthday Sheila. You are an amazing woman. 🌻
Kathryn
2023-05-24
Happy birthday Sheila, a very memorable way to celebrate that milestone. Well done Leanne. Thank you for keeping us all on the trail with you.
Beth
2023-05-25
An incredible way to celebrate your 70th, Sheila, and I can think of no lovelier a person than Leanne, for you to be spending this amazing birthday adventure with. x
Chris D
2023-05-25
So fortunate to get that well deserved accommodation, massage and hearty meal ladies. Happy 70th Sheila...a birthday you'll be guaranteed to remember!
Ange Kerr
2023-05-25
Wow, Sheila - I didn't realise you are now 70. Enid you win in these comments anyway - Philip met Sheila 44 years ago while we were teachers in Cunamulla and Shiela was a teacher with the PCAP (Priority County Area Program) and often slumming it in very fancy homesteads where one dressed for dinner (I do believe she actuallly had some othere experiences as well). I am so wrapped in your journey. You guys have seen so much. That massage was just the ticket for you both and what a wonderful thing for Sheila's birthday. I'm pleased you girls are looking after yourselves so well. I personally would find walking in 28 degrees very hot and it is interesting that it is hotter at 6 p.p. - who would have thought. It sounds as though you guys have planned the wals very well too. Cheers
Karen
2023-05-25
Leanne you are the perfect traveling companion…..in fact , you are perfect for each other! You certainly made sure Sheila had a wonderful birthday. I will miss these daily blogs as your journey has been so full of adventures. Stay safe and happy! Not far to go now.🤗🤗
Carole
2023-05-25
Fantastic birthday memories to have Sheila, well done Leanne xx
Suzanne
2023-05-25
What a wonderful way to celebrate Shelia`s birthday. Massages are the beast after a hard walk.
Jodie
2023-05-25
Happy 70th to Sheila. I am glad you had the much needed massage and the lovely meal. Ready to move on- stay safe.
Karry
2023-05-25
What a fabulous way to celebrate your birthday Sheila!
Jenny F
2023-05-26
Dear Sheila & Leanne. I met up with Daphne, Karen & Teresa tonight at the Billie Brown and they were telling me about your travels and your blog Leanne. Daphne shared with me tonight. What a monumental and very memorable experience you are having. How wonderful. Happy Birthday Sheila wishing you much joy. You are very special to us all; I recognise and feel that, even though we have only know each other a comparatively short time. I look forward to catching up with you both and hearing all about your travels.
Liz Davis
2023-05-28
Happy birthday Sheila. Glad that you had the opportunity to make it a special day with that massage and delicious dinner. Great architecture in all your photos. Amazing views too.