Mansilla de las Mulas, Castile and León, Spain and Canary Islands
We’re beginning to dread the word senda when we read it in the guide book. Translated from Spanish it means path. To us it means a long, often straight, slightly boring, gravel track that plows on forever beside a road! Today was our fourth straight day of 20+ kms, three of them 25+ on the senda and I think I’d reached my limit today. We walked 26kms in just over 6 hrs. I think we were walking a bit faster today because we just wanted to get it over with!
It was 4° when we started at 6:30. It had risen to 6° by 9 am and by the time we finished just before 2pm it was 21 degrees and blowing a gale. It was a beautiful but cold day up until lunchtime. The wind seemed to come out of nowhere. The force was almost enough to push us off the track at times.
Today wasn’t a particularly scenic day of walking. I found myself forgetting to look up and around at what we were passing by. I just had my head down and was slogging it out. We’ve commented that the land seems poorer and less arable now. There are not so many crops in the ground.
However, we did see our first cows today and a bit of green grass for the first time since starting our walk across the meseta. Tomorrow we’ll arrive in Leon and that’s the recognised end of the meseta crossing so I guess it’s not surprising that the countryside is beginning to change. In the far distance we can see a mountain range. They look quite high. I keep thinking, I hope we’re not going in that direction!
We had two stops today. The first was at El Burgo Ranero after about 7kms for breakfast. We walked most of this way on the road rather than the senda. Luckily it was a very quiet country road with very little traffic. Then there was a long haul of another 13kms before our next stop at Reliegos for lunch. I had to walk on the senda for this leg and I was flagging by the time we finally got to Reliegos. We had a good stop here and then set off to finish the final 6-7kms. I had to resort to the EarPods and a podcast to while away some of the time but we did finally make it into Mansilla.
Our Albergue is good.
Small with only 8 beds in 2 rooms. It’s run by Marisa and Carlos, a charming couple. I think Carlos is a bit of a larrikin. He certainly enjoys a joke. Our Dutch friend, Nicole, had also arrived in Mansilla today. She rushed out of the kitchen to greet us with hugs. She’s been on a different schedule to us. She left Burgos a day ahead of us but she’s been taking her time across the meseta and so we caught up with her again. It was lovely to see her.
Carlos recommended a restaurant in town for dinner. Two Spanish ladies that we’ve been crossing paths with since Hornillos came with us and we had a great meal together. Pili is about 5 foot nothing and a ball of energy. She does all the talking. She speaks English and French as well as Spanish and translates all the conversations for her friend, Manoli. They’re lovely ladies. Usually they leave after us each day and power past us at some point. Amazingly fast walkers! The meal was great. We all enjoyed it.
Chris.
2023-05-18
I hope u get a few easier days ahead Lan. U seem exhausted but amazingly resilient. Love you. Xx
Allan
2023-05-18
I can almost taste the anticipation of a day of rest soon - you’ll probably come back to Brisbane and be like Forrest Gump ….and just keep on walking. XX
leanneroles
2023-05-18
Thanks, Chris. We’re feeling pretty proud of ourselves but definitely in need of a rest day! Love you too xx
Karry
2023-05-18
Nice to see you’re still smiling.
Marl
2023-05-18
Great effort today. Sounds like a hard one
Margot
2023-05-18
El Burgo Ranero is where I did my volunteering gig back in 2017.
Beth
2023-05-19
You continue to inspire me, Leanne. Go girl! x
Suzanne
2023-05-19
Do hope the wind drops down for you tomorrow.
Liz Davis
2023-05-19
Lovely for you to see familiar faces along the way. You'll all be best friends by the time the walk is over, I imagine.
Karen
2023-05-21
Thank you Leanne for your entertaining commentary. The wind must have been challenged a Nd you are to be admired for our determination.🦋