Triacastela, Galicia, Spain and Canary Islands
Distance by the guide book - 20 .7km
Total distance for the day - 21.5km
Flights climbed - 36
So when they tell you O Cebriero is the last big climb on the Camino it turns out they don’t mean the last climb! Today, just for fun, they took us up and down two more mountains! Now that we’ve had a good look at the topographical map we realise we can expect quite a few more ups and downs on our way to the finish line. After boasting about our fitness yesterday, today we’re knackered! We weren’t expecting that kind of workout after our hike yesterday. We didn’t go past the height of yesterday but we almost did.
After about 3 kms of descending we had our first ascent to Alto de San Roque at 1270 metres where an imposing statue of a pilgrim looks out over the valley below. Another couple of kilometres on, descending all the way we came to the village of Hospital de la Condesa. Even though we’d only gone about 5kms at this point, remembering missed opportunities of the past, when we saw an open cafe we decided to grab the chance for some breakfast. So glad we did! Eggs on toast, breakfast of champions!
Now that we’d descended a couple of hundred metres, of course we had to go up again to the next mountain top, Alto do Poio, at 1335 metres. As much as I complain about having to walk up mountains, the rewards of doing so are the spectacular views of the surrounding countryside. Galicia is known as one of the wettest areas of Spain and you can certainly tell from the green, green hills and lush forests that this is the case.
From there it was on to Fonfria and probably the hardest part of the day, the descending. Thank goodness the terrain was nothing like coming down off Cruz de Ferro but even with a softer path the relentless pressure on the knees is telling after a while. I said to Sheila that my anti-inflammatories won’t know which part of my body to target tonight!
There were a couple of stand out moments today. One was the herd of cows being driven through the village for milking just as we were walking by. They were a quite disciplined herd, following a well trodden path with their handlers. That is, except for Mabel at the end! She was dawdling along behind the rest and got left behind. She kind of looked around as if to say where is everyone? And then she seemed to be heading off in the right direction. Sheila and I started walking on but when I looked behind a few moments later, Mabel was following us out of the village! She didn’t get far. Two farm workers were in hot pursuit, one on foot and one in a car. They herded her into a paddock by the side of the road and I think she was getting a tongue lashing from the young girl who had followed her on foot.
In another village, an old Grandmotherly type was handing out pancakes which she was sprinkling with sugar. Of course she expected you to pay for them after she’d handed it over to you. How could you refuse, she was so sweet.
Tonight we’re in the village of Triacastela. There were apparently in the dim distant past three castles here. There’s no evidence left of them now. The village is very pilgrim friendly with plenty of Albergues and eateries. We arrived at about 2 pm, checked in to our Albergue and then went out to find some lunch. We figured if we ate something substantial now we could just have a snack for dinner later, which is what we did. We’d not long gotten back to our room when the heavens opened with a huge thunderstorm. Brilliant timing on our part. We were very glad not to be caught walking in it. It had passed by 6 so we were able to go out and have a walk around the village.
Neither of us slept well last night. A combination of having to share a double bed (only option in the accommodation sweepstakes) and the room being too hot. We’re hoping for a a better nights sleep tonight.
Claire
2023-05-27
Gosh! More big challenges of up and down as you wind your way to the finish line! That country is really beautiful though and the rewards are certainly there. Love the cowfest. Go naughty Mabel 👍😎👍!
Marl
2023-05-27
A challenging day. Hope you sleep better tonight. The landscape is gorgeous and hope Mabel didn’t get into too much trouble! 🤣
Margot
2023-05-27
Galicia is gorgeous. There’s a bit more evidence of the Romans having been to that part of the world too. Have you noticed the changes in the language? It’s a bit more Portuguese in that part of Spain, buggered me completely.
Eydi
2023-05-27
Beautiful photos as usual. Just think of next Saturday and where you’ll be—- with any luck, at the finish line! Tomorrow will likely be your last Sunday trekking. Despite the ups and downs left through the mountainside, excitement must be starting to build as you head into your last week.
Allan
2023-05-27
Such beautiful countryside and continue to love your dialogue, Leanne. Don’t you just love cows! XX
Karen K
2023-05-28
Unbelievably green countryside. Really picturesque - thanks for the great photos including Mabel the wanderer!
Kaen
2023-05-28
That has to b the most awesome tree of all . The sights you have seen, not to mention the views. You are right of course…you only get to see them by going up,but my body aches for you. Stay safe. Love Karen💕
Ingrid
2023-05-28
You two should be very proud of yourselves for all the distances you've walked. Unbelieveable! And the countryside... spectacular. I travel vicariously with my friends. LOL! xx
Beth
2023-05-28
I'll bet Granny's pancake tasted delicious, Leanne. So close now... Shall think of you finishing the walk as I laze at an apartment at Mission Beach. x
Helen
2023-05-28
Love those cows!
Liz Davis
2023-05-28
Definitely stunning views both of the scenery and the eggs on toast. Lunch time here might have eggs on toast!
Suzanne
2023-05-28
Those eggs look delicious, and then to top it off with sugar pancakes. Perfect!. Great photos, though it did cost you with the ups and downs of the mountains. Do hope you sleep well tonight.
Helen D
2023-05-28
A beautiful but taxing day!
Ange K
2023-05-29
Oh dear Mabel, I sure she was just really impressed with you two and decided she wanted to join you for the rest of your trip 😍 I can taste the pancakes ... a pleasant surprise ... but then I would want a coffee 🤣 Once again stunningly views. Thank you 😀
Chris D
2023-05-29
Certainly very green and beautiful.
Laurel
2023-05-29
The greenery certainly turns on the beauty. Gorgeous country.