Just a few years ago, Azerbaijan, Armenia and Georgia were just semi-forgotten little pieces of the gigantic Soviet Union. People outside had not idea how unique each of these countries is, and how rich their culture and history is. Each not only has its own language, but a different alphabet as well! The Georgian alphabet is particularly exotic, with the mysterious loops and curves in the letter it looks more like a language you'd find deep in the heart of India.

But Georgia is definitely Europe . In case there's any doubt, when you enter the country there's a big billboard that actually says so (in English) "Georgia is part of Europe!"

However, from the Traveler's perspective, Georgia is part of his Asia journey. Why? Because the border between Georgia and the rest of Europe (via Russia) is closed to tourists. The only way to travel in and out of Georgia by land is through Asia.

Unlike Armenians and Azeris who have a bit more of a Middle Eastern look, Georgians actually live up to their name: Caucasians (or at least what nowadays people typically define as "Caucasian"... fair skin, blond hair). They also seem much more laid back than their neighbors. While Azeris are obsessed with looking very classy when out in public, here it's not uncommon to see a middle aged man in shorts and unbottoned shirt, showing off his beer belly, strolling down the street in Georgia.

It's a short walk to the town of Sadakhlo, which looks fairly poor, with a run down little plaza. Not really much different than an Armenian town. But one building does really catch his attention: A brand new police station with a big glass window in front.

Later he learns that this is not merely aesthetic, it symbolizes the transformation Georgia is undergoing. Recently the government decided to get serious about fighting corruption... fired its police officers. Then it hired new police officers, and has been building big window stations so people outside can see clearly what's going on inside.

Quite a bold and risky move... you wonder what all those old police officers are up to these days...

He pulls out his guitar a couple of teenage girls gather to listen. As it turns out, Georgia offers some of the best Parkbench concert audiences in the world... They sit at a respectful distance... listen attentively listen attentively and don't interrupt in the middle of my songs... and instead of badgering him to sing "Hotel California", they actually ask him to play his songs over again!

A police officer joins them. But he's not there to serve a noise complaint, he just want to listen--in fact afterwards he offers to show the Traveler around once he gets off work.

They chat for a bit. The girls' faces brighten when he tells them he's from America (Later he learns that the joke is that Georgia considers itself the 51st American state!) and when he tells them he's an English teacher, they say he should come and teach in their country. The young police officer seems pretty frustrated with his job prospects for the future.

"We used to go to Russia to work, but since the war we can't"

"I've seen a lot of people going to Turkey, what about going there?"

"We can't speak the language... and nobody likes Turkey" (Well... not nobody... Azerbaijan likes Turkey...)

Clearly Georgia is going through an identity crisis, Once ruled by the Turks, it doesn't feel any cultural connection with Turkey... then ruled by the Russians, now has just fought a painful war with them--and Georgians can no longer go there (although Russian tourists can still come to Georgia). Georgia is trying to forge a new cultural connection with The West--by learning English and Westernizing its country in many ways...

Only problem? The West is very far away... and The West is not all that concerned about Georgia.