He continues on past one last peaceful village of Ptghavan, then on the the border, where he pauses for a bowl of borsht. Here he thinks back on all he has experienced and seen over the last 15 days of exploring Armenia. Much like Azerbaijan, there's a mix of appreciation for the kindness and nobleness of the people... and the dystopian system that they live in.
 
Both countries seem seriously mismanaged . But Azerbaijan at least has a functioning economy--and a strategic economic alliance with its neighbors. People and goods can flow freely between Azerbaijan and Russia, Iran, Georgia--plus Central Asia across the sea. Armenia feels crippled by self-imposed isolation.
 
In both country the emotion of hate seems very strong--towards each other. Both seem to have a complete unwillingness to even consider the other sides' point of view, thus creating an almost impossible to solve situation. Both seem locked in this outdated idea that a one can only belong to ONE ethnicity, ONE religion, rather than the modern idea that, MULTIPLE faiths, ethnicities and cultures can live together peacefully, each having their rights respected.  
 
When two groups of people claim that the same patch of land belongs to THEIR people, because THEIR people ruled it at one time in history, this creates a scenario for endless conflict, hate and violence. And it's all really quite silly, when you stop and think about it. Land really doesn't belong to any one person or people group . We belong to the land.  
 
Who not, instead of endlessly digging up old conflicts and land claims, why can't people just focus on working together to make better lives for everyone... now?
 
It really should be very simple here in the Caucasus to resolve these conflicts, since these countries aren't overpopulated like, say, Rwanda. There's plenty of room and land for everyone. And there would be plenty of jobs if they could just work together to create an efficient system.
 
Should it really matter if this land is ruled by Armenians, Azeris, Turks, Russians or Iranians... as long as people's individual and communal rights are protected and their basic needs are taken care of?
 
Here, Armenian "self rule" seems more of a sad joke. Everyone the Traveler has asked says that life was better back when they were ruled by outsiders. The Russians invested massively in Armenia. Now, with Armenian rule, little more than ruins remain.
 
The Traveler knows he will be an Armenian or Azeri. He will never know the pain, anger and frustration they feel as they look at their neighbors and and the cruel things that have been done. Perhaps if he were one of them, immersed in vicious cycle of revenge he would see things much different.
 
But he's not. He's just a passerby who has the chance to to look at this entire region with an eagle perspective. And from this perspective, the conflicts look quite foolish. The solutions quite simple.
 
Now he's going to continue on, to explore more of the world. Have other countries and cultures done a better job and breaking out of this tribal mentality and cycle of violence? Or is this pretty much the standard human experience? There's much more to learn. And he will always reference the new observations with his sometimes sad, sometimes inspiring... sometimes just frustrating journey through the lands of these two sworn enemies: Azerbaijan and Armenia.
 
He immortalizes this experience in a song:
 
Two brothers living close to each otherSo much in common so much that bonds themTwo brothers sharing the same heartbeatPeople’s expectations of a future that’s better
 
We can be stronger by working together We can see beyond to a tomorrow that’s better By focusing on what we have in common as brothers
 
Two brothers it’s only natural, Sometimes there are problems, it’s part of being a familyBut as brothers we must keep our focusOn what is important on what it is that joins us
 
We can be stronger by working together We can see beyond to a tomorrow that’s better By focusing on what we have in common as brothers
 
When a brother falls down, the others gather around Help him up to his feet, there in his time of need