2118. A Very Different South Africa

Tuesday, April 19, 2016
Cape Town, Western Cape, South Africa
Day 3-056
Day Totals: 16 hrs, 5 .2 kms

Next is a long, long bus ride to Cape Town. I was tempted to stop at a town or two along the way, but then I remembered my near miss in Vryburg, and decided I'd really better stick to the touristy areas.

The scenery is quite spectacular. Vast desolate areas with jagged, rocky mountains... Little isolated towns that would look quaint and picturesque, if it wasn't for the very obvious apartheid era divisions you can see even as you speed past...

Then the semi-desert scenery abruptly changes, a valley opens up with lush, irrigated vineyards and reservoirs... Then over a ridge, and a vast open plain far below, with more mountains on the other side...

Yes, South Africa is a beautiful country, I must say. Finally, iconic Table Mountain becomes visible on the horizon. We have reached Cape Town.

First we make a stop in the suburb of Bellevue, and the driver warns "Make sure you get off at the right stop! They will rob you quick here! You're not in Namibia anymore!"

Yeah, thanks for reminding me .

I stay on red alert as I wander through Cape Towns huge train/bus/minibus terminal. The hostel is just two blocks away... but my memories of Vryburg are still fresh.

The first hostel is filled up... I head to the second one... I'm in luck. Now I can ditch my luggage and go out and enjoy the city. I gaze out from the balcony to crowded, eclectic Long Street. I'm ready to give South Africa a second chance.

This is clearly the tourist hub of the city, with tourists overflowing in the bars and restaurants. There are a pair of security guards on every block almost. Yes there are beggars and hustlers as well, but with a firm "no" they'll usually walk away. Here you see people of all races walking, mingling... It's a complete different feel from the rest of South Africa that I've seen.

The architecture is quite fascinating, with a mix of Victorian along with early century British, neo-classical squeezed between modern buildings and buildings covered with African art . It feels great to be able to walk in relative ease on the streets.

Further up the road, the restaurants get a bit more upscale as I approach the wealthy neighborhoods at the base of Table Mountain. Evening is setting in, so I decide I'd better head on back...

In the hostel I have a couple interesting conversations. One is with a white farmer who attempted to set up an eco-farm in which everything was recycled and self-sustaining, including a fish pool... Unfortunately he ran out of funds. Suddenly I have a different perspective on white farmers in South Africa...

I talk with a young German fellow who spent the day hiking up table mountain. Turns out it's a lot easier for the solo hiker than I thought... Definitely going to have to try that out tomorrow...
Other Entries

Comments

2025-05-23

Comment code: Ask author if the code is blank