Day 3-053
8 hrs, 2 .4 kms
Day Totals: 16 hrs, 6.6 kms

Today's Saturday which means that businesses shut down early. I'd been thinking of spending the night here in Okahanja, but as I walk the short, empty Main Street, I realize it will be a really boring afternoon and evening here. And although I haven't felt threatened here in Namibia, I don't want to push my luck too far...

So I head back to the gas station to see about getting a ride to Windhoek. I'm told there aren't any collective taxis around. "You can ask that guy" the attendant told me, pointing to a customer "You pay 60 to go to Windhoek"

I go over to the driver, and he happily agrees to drive me to the capital. He's a Zimbabwean professional who works here in Namibia, and is an excellent source of information on what's really going on in this country.

First, he gives me a breakdown of the tribal, social hiearchy, "The Owambo tribe has the political power. They are in the best positions, their children have the best chances of continuing their education. The Nama, on the other hand, seem to be resigned to be low wage farm workers. They rarely continue their education. The Herero have cattle... that is their wealth and identity"

"Do they have land to graze their cattle on?"

"They share collective land... Then there's the Himba, they pretty much just want to be left alone and live in the traditional way. As long as others aren't interested in taking their land, they pretty much can live as they please..."

"Then there are the Basters... it comes from the word "bastard"... they're the descendants of white male farmers and their female workers. They have their own distinct identity--and lately have become a bit more ambitious and prosperous."

"And what about the whites?" I ask "where do they fit into this scheme?"

"The whites always have the real money and power." he explains "I'll give you an example: the white owner of a poultry farm was starting to lose business due to cheap chickens brought in from South Africa, so he pressured the government to ban chicken imports... and they did... And when we started getting cheap cement from China, the local producer pressured the government to ban it... and the did. That's one reason why construction is so expensive here. Everyone participates in the corruption"

Maybe this is why Namibians don't rise up and revolt... because of these tribal divisions, its hard for multiple tribes to join together for a single cause.

I ask about the shantytowns. "There's a big housing crisis here," he tells me "but it's artificial. Homes could be built for these people... but when there are low income housing projects, these houses end up in the wrong hands, due to corruption. And even those you see with houses and nice cars, most of them are deeply in debt. They could lose everything at any time."

"If someone speaks up, they risk having trouble further down the road. At least it's better than in Zimbabwe... there if you speak up you simply disappear. Here, when someone is granted a contract for building a road, they will use substandard material and overcharge for the project... in Zimbabwe, the road won't get built at all..."

"But I still love my country" he continues "Here I will always be a foreigner, always insecure. I hope to go back to my country... maybe buy a farm there..."

Finally we reach Windhoek, and we part ways... I head up the hill to "Cardboard Box Hostel" which is a hostel/bar/pool/party house. Lo and behold... here I find the Japanese guy I met in Upington who is on his way to Japan overland! We head out for a walk around town together, then when we come back, a join a couple of other fellows for a jam session by the pool... and call it a day...