Day 3-049
6 hrs, 3 .7 kms

It's still early after noon, but the last minibus to Vryburg has already left. Luckily the guy at the station calls him to come back an pick me up. On the way I then get shuttled twice to other minibuses before finally heading off.

I think I got this all figured out: I'm going to get off near the center of town, and walk straight to the nearest hotel. Sounds simple, right? It's still daylight when we arrive, so it shouldn't be a problem.

But when I cross the street I decide to ask directions at a gas station, and they point me in the other direction, so I head back to the minibus station. A tall fellow with dreadlocks and a rastafarian hat offers to help me, and I politely decline...

But something doesn't feel right when I get back to the station. People are looking at me like "you really shouldn't be here..." When the Rastafarian came and told them he was going to show me the way, they seem to suggest I go with him . My instincts tell me I'm in a risky situation. We walk a little way, then he stops and stares at a couple of guys watching us.

"They want to rob you." he tells me, "and they're not happy that I'm protecting you"

Holy crap. I quickly assess the situation. I'm not sure I can trust this guy. But trusting him seems less risky than not doing so. Finally he determines its safe to go on, and we walk down a quiet street together.

I try to make conversation. He tells me that Rastafarianism is quite popular--and well accepted here in South Africa. "I'd like to go to the US someday, but I'm concerned about it being dangerous."

I almost laugh out loud. "Don't worry... it's a lot safer than here..."

Finally we reach a hotel which is way over my budget, but I'm not going to push my luck any more. Only problem is I don't have cash with me, so my new friend offers to accompany me through the empty downtown to an ATM machine ... which he does.

And it turns out my doubts about him were unfounded... he doesn't even accept a "tip" when I offer it.

I feel both relieved and frustrated when I get back to my room. It's not even fully dark yet, but I'm trapped in a hotel room and don't even feel safe to go out to look for something to eat. And this isn't some slum, or urban ghetto... just your ordinary South African town....

Next morning things feel a bit better. People are out and about. No suspicious characters lurking about. I even find a well maintained little park for my Parkbench concert. When I head back to the minibus station, I run into my "guardian angel" again. He tells me it'll take way too long to wait for a minibus to Kuruman, the next town, but shows me a spot where I can "hike" (hitchhike) for a set fare...