8 hrs, 23.0 kms     

Day Totals: 14 hrs, 26 .0 kms

 

A few kilometres down the road is another village that's a good ways off the main road, but I decide to check it out too, and am glad I do. Ksar Jabel is a very cool castle village. Built along a long, straight ridge that slopes on the south side. I wander through the semi ruined section to the top and… to my delight, I find a sheer drop on the north side! I gaze out through a crack in the wall at this straight, rugged cliff that goes on for more than a kilometer, with houses perched along the top all the way, gazing out to the serene palm forest.

I find a little path to climb down, and follow the base of the cliff, soaking it all it. I try to not let the trash people chuck over the edge spoil the moment. I was starting out this hike assuming it was going to be all about getting from point A to point B—so this discovery is a very welcome surprise. I continue almost to the edge of the village, where the cliff starts to peeter out, then head on back on the south side .

A couple young fellows call out to me from the ridge above "come and see the view!". Been there, done that. Now I’ve got to pick up the pace or I’m going to end up in Arfoud very late at night.

One nice thing about starting a long hike at 3 PM is you avoid the hot hours of the day. 26 kilometers in cool weather is nothing. It’s hiking in the direct sun that really wears you out. Over the next 22 kilometers I see little more than the stars and an occasional headlight coming my way. Who cares—I’ve ridden through this stretch and it’s all flat, barren desert. My only concern is that I might twist my ankle on the ragged shoulder or step too far off and into a ditch when avoiding oncoming traffic.

Finally a bit after 10 PM I reach Arfoud, and quickly look for something to eat before the restaurants shut down. All I can come up with is a lousy chicken sandwich.

A fellow sits down next to me—he tells me he’s a musician, and asks to borrow my guitar—in fact he’s in a band with Samir, the drummer I met here 4 years ago! He plays some of his original songs—which are quite good, songs about religious themes and social issues, mixing traditional and western styles. He says they play at festivals and events in this area, and people really like their songs. It’s heartwarming to see “real” musicians with original, meaningful songs, finding an outlet for their music, even in out of the way places like Arfoud. He suggests that we get together tomorrow and maybe do a little jam session—maybe even do a little video or something.

And with that pleasant end to my day, I go look for a hotel, and call it a day.