2 hrs, 3.0 kms


After Arbid, the path sort of disappears, and I find myself zigzaggin back and forth, figuring out my way through the farm plots . A middle aged fellow calls out to me.

If I were somewhere else in the world, I figure he wants to know what the f— I'm doing trapsing through his fields, but here in East Morocco, I can assume that he’s

Probably just being friendly.

Sure enough. He’s quite pleased to know that I’m hiking through "just to explore the region" and happily gives me insights into the life here. He tells me about the date harvest and how the guys up in the trees sing to each other from tree to tree as the harvest the dates, creating a symphony of song…

He explains to me about the cultural different cultures of this region. Here in this area, people are Berber, women wear light colors, and are free to greet men as they pass (which I’ve noticed), down the road, in Rissani area, the people are Arab, the women wear black and cover their faces, except for one eye, when a man passes (which I also noticed). It’s intriguing to see the clear distinction in cultures just a few kilometres apart.

I ask if there are disputes over water. “People try to work things out peacefully” he tells me “life is difficult here—this year there hasn’t been much rain, unlike in the west of Morocco. But life is clean and the air is healthy—here you can raise your kids to be respectful and well behaved—unlike in the cities.” 

 He pulls out a digital camera—the last thing I’d expect to be in the pocket of a local farmer here—and shows me some nice shots he took of the river, not far away.

Actually, this fellow isn’t a farmer, he lives and works elsewhere in Morocco and comes here on vacation. But clearly this is, and always will be his home.

“I sure wish we could have a picture taken of us together” he tells me. I happily show him how to set his camera on a timer, put it on my pocket tripod and—voila!

He finally bids me farewell and says “be sure you don’t miss the spring at the end of the oasis!”  That was quite an enjoyable encounter.

I continue on through the oasis, until I reach yet another simple little village. No spectacular mud castle here, but still a nice change of scenery.