HIGHLIGHTS Sat 30 Nov: Chamula & Zinacantan

Sunday, December 01, 2013
San Cristobal de las Casas, Central Mexico and Gulf Coast, Mexico
Today's tour of two nearby villages (Chamula & Zinacantan) and a fascinating insight into their pre-Columbian beliefs and their daily struggle to be heard in what is one of Mexico's most isolated regions.

Firstly Chamula where Cesar was our local guide. One of the key things that he stressed was no photo in some places, especially inside the church or probably the place of religious practice. My 2 inside photos were taken from brought postcards!

I have seen hundreds if not thousands of churches or places where religious beliefs were practiced around the world and this one would be near the top. The darkness, thousands of lit colourful candles on the ground and tables, statues with mirrors on their chest to deflect evil, no pews, a carpet of pine needles on the ground, smoke from burning copal resin incense coloured religious banners hanging like arches, people praying in their own way, live chicken and sharmans going about their ways, soda (mostly Coca Cola) just peace, .... I suppose that it was in a building that was once a Christian church and now used for a slightly different religious purpose that made this place unique. The local form of Catholicism is a blend of pre-conquest Maya customs, Spanish Catholic traditions, and subsequent innovations. No weddings or funerals are held here. Jesus is the sun and Mary is the moon.

Chamulas also have their own police force.

Over the hill in Zinacantan where they grow flowers verses vegetables grown by the Chamula. Textile weaving still done by hand is another important income stream.

In this town everyone is dressed in shades of purple. In other towns we saw people dressed in blues, reds, yellows and browns.

Their church is Vatican controlled. Again no photos inside. It had pews, allowed weddings, in fact there was confetti outside on the ground. Decorated with flowers, religious banners, statutes with again mirrors on their chest. Some were heart shape .... and not so many candles were burning. Not as impressive as Chamula but still different.

Cesar our guide explained more about this native or indigenous group and their local weaving.

Here the women have long hair, wear no make up nor nail polish, no public affection is shown and only allowed 1 wife unlike the Chamula who allows many! Intermarrying between the Zinacantan and Chamula people does occur. They do get on well together.

Fresh-made tortillas made from corn and water.

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