Siliguri, West Bengal, India
When Bengal was partitioned during India's independence, large portions of East and North Bengal became East Pakistan and then Bangladesh. However, a small corridor, called the chicken's neck was left for India, to provide connectivity to Bhutan, Sikkim, Nepal and the North Eastern States. At the heart of this narrow strip lies Siliguri, which is where I reached today.
I knew today was going to be a long and tiring drive and it proved to be just that
. The distance wasn't too much, but it took 14 hours to cover 550 kms. The problem was the crossing of the
mother of all Indian rivers.
There aren't many bridges to cross the Ganga - there were only two possibilities - the Farakka barrage near Malda or the Vikramshila Setu at Bhagalpur. Both have terrible roads leading to them and awful approaches and are a nightmare. I chose the lesser of the two evils, the route through Bhagalpur. There are two problems with this - one is that the roads to Bhagalpur are some of the worst roads in the country and in places I had to crawl at 10 kmph. Potholes, craters, lunar craters, martian craters, sinkholes and every other monstrosity was thrown at my faithful companion. And then there is Bhagalpur town itself - one of the messiest towns in all of the land. It seems the entire population of India is there in a narrow street 1 mtr wide with rickshaws, autos, cars, cows, and every imaginable object , all jostling for the same space
. But once you cross that, is the majestic Vikramshila Setu, named after the famous university that was established here. I would have loved to pause and visit the university ruins, but only a madman would stop at Bhagalpur.
The bridge at 4.7 kms long is the third longest bridge in India. That's how wide the Ganga is at this point. Although about 2 kms of this has been converted to fields cultivating some crop or the other - that's how much the river has withdrawn, although I suspect during the occasional floods it will widen to its full majesty. There's only a little water now, but I am sure during the monsoon season, it would be a sight.
Once the Ganga was crossed, it became a little easier, although I was caught again at yet another state border crossing - Dalkhola between Bihar and Bengal. Another 500 trucks lined up to present a miserable sight. It was dark by the time I reached Siliguri, so didn't venture out into the town. But as I can see, its a major stopover point for tourists proceeding to Darjeeling, Kalimpong, Gangtok and to Thimpu. Lots of tourists coming in and out. Bustling mid town, with the inevitable mall !!
Tomorrow is another tough drive, so calling it early. Managed some photos today while driving.
PS : Anne/Thomas/Mutli handle man (ha ha) - Ganga is the Indian name for the river known to you as the Ganges. Its the mightiest river in all of India and one of the great rivers of he world. Hindus consider it a very holy river.
At the Chicken's Neck
Saturday, February 07, 2015
Siliguri, West Bengal, India
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Comments
2025-05-23
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Vincy Joseph
2015-02-07
oh so much info on that part of our country and especially about Ganga in this single post. Truly if someone had taught Geography interestingly ( liek the way you have written your post) in those school days, i would have scored better in that subject.
Your companion seems more wishes than you I guess, with all those road conditions there. :-)
Anne in Salem
2015-02-08
Offroading looks more comfortable for both you and your faithful companion that staying on the roads. I think she deserves a treat when she gets you home safely. I hope you do not have to return on these same treacherous roads.
This is a much different view of the Ganges than I have seen. Usually the pictures show filthy and polluted water with thousands of believers bathing during the holidays. I read a story in National Geographic about a town that grows 1000X with pilgrims wishing to bathe in the Ganges. It is edifying to see pictures of beauty.
indigoite
2015-02-08
@Vincy - Oh ou are way too kind. This is far from a geography lesson - just the ramblings of a wanderer. And yes, my car needs some TLC all through this trip. There are worse roads to cross :(
@ Anne - Either way, its very bad terrain for sedans. But that's the way it goes in India. Some good roads and many bad roads. We have to take it as it is.
The Ganges is a much polluted river. Bathing or swimming in it is only for the devout. Even in Varanasi, where its at its polluted worst; the Ganges is a majestic sight.
The event you probably read about in the National Geographic is the Kumbh Mela. It happens once in 12 years on the banks of the Ganges in Allahabad. Its the largest congregation of humans in on single place, by a long way. Despite the chaos and the pollution, the devotion is to be seen to be believed. Its on of the great spectacles on earth, But again, not for the faint hearted.
Asha
2015-02-09
I was going to mention siliguri in my previous comment but did'nt want to spoil the suspense. BTw, chicken's neck is only 17 km stretch. Is'nt it? From your post, i assume the narrow stretch has very bad roads. Sad:( the only land connect to NE should have such bad roads.
Suja
2015-02-09
Interesting info on the geography of the area..I was quite unaware! I have been to many places along the path that Ganga takes but have yet to see where the Ganga meets the ocean. Its on my bucket list..
indigoite
2015-02-09
@Suja - for that you have to go to Bangladesh. The two Begums have to stop squabbling for that - right now its a no go area. I toyed with the idea of driving through Bangladesh, but discretion overcame valour !
indigoite
2015-02-09
@Asha - I know you guessed long ago where I was going :)
Getting to Siliguri is the problem; after that its fine. But the NE states have little to complain about - their own roads are an equal mess. I will have lot of potholes to photograph - hence the title of this blog :)
Vinod
2015-02-10
Its so surreal to be able to travel with you virtually across the Ganga and experiencing it rhrough your blogs! Also equally wonderful are the comments from your other fellow travellers, each of them drawing on their experiences and sharing it as well here!
indigoite
2015-02-11
@Vinod - Yes Vinod, its so enriching to hear others' views. Social media, when put to good use is n amazing thing.