Guwahati, Assam, India
Six days and 2800 kms later, I am at the real starting point of my trip. On the banks of the Brahmaputra. In Guwahati. The gateway to the North East.
You would have guessed by now, where this trip was heading
. I am going to meander around the North East of India, wandering where the fancy takes me !
Today's drive was pretty uneventful and easier than I thought. For the first time on the trip the drive started turning picturesque. For a few miles from Siliguri, I went up the hills to cross the Teesta and then came down to flat plains. Remember the Teesta and Darjeeling ?? In the good old days, the hero and heroine would romp around this place. Nowadays they twerk in Switzerland. Ugh !
Thereafter it was all level ground. Past the tea country of the Dooars. Then past the Jaldapara wildlife reserve (I am not going there, but a distinguished commenter and star blogger went there last year and she might wish to share her experience !) Then through Bodoland keeping north of the river, only dropping to cross the Brahmaputra just before Guwahati. For quite the next few days, I'll be roaming up and down the land close to the Brahmaputra. This is, after all, the life giver to Assam
. It starts life as the Tsangpo in Tibet, then flows as the Siang in Arunachal Pradesh, before becoming the mighty Brahmaputra in Assam.
Guwahati is an oldish city and I am camping in the old city quarters in a home stay. This is a phenomenon rapidly growing in India. Families which built large houses long ago, are now turning into homestays, essentially targeting the foreign traveler on a budget. It usually is an old, not so nice building, cramped congested surroundings , but with nice interiors and a warm family as hosts. Very nice.
There's a nice promenade along the Brahmaputra in Guwahati. Despite being a typically bustling and not so clean town, the river banks are actually quite nice. Haven't yet gone into the town - that's for tomorrow.
Tomorrow is a pause, as my faithful companion needs some attending to and I have to fulfill some Ramamritham requirements. My right foot will appreciate the break, after having been vigorously exercised over the last week !
PS : Ramamritham is a fictional character invented by me to represent the pedantic, painful, useless bureaucrat that we unfortunately encounter everyday in India. His sole mission in life is to make poor us miserable !
On the banks of the Brahmaputra
Sunday, February 08, 2015
Guwahati, Assam, India
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Comments
2025-05-23
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Ravi Rajagopalan
2015-02-08
You have been in our thoughts this evening as we ate out prior to starting the week. Hope you have enjoyed the journey so far. Its a bit tricky here so please take care. Do visit the Kamakhya temple if possible. It is one of the oldest temples in the Hindu world - it was known when Alexander invaded India. Get some rest.
Ravi Rajagopalan
2015-02-08
A suggestion: Last year I recall you went to the Rajasthan border to the site of the Battle of Longowal. I suggest if possible you go as close as possible to the site of the battle of Rezang La. I believe there is a temple to the memory of Major Shaitan Singh, the Commander, Charlie COmpany, 13 Kumaon. This very same Kumaon Regiment fought the Pakistanis in Longowal. In Rezang La, 120 officers and men held off a vastly superior Chinese force, killing a couple of thousand Chinese troops. The company was destroyed - 114 killed and 6 taken prisoner. It was one of the very few victories of the 1962 War.
Vincy Joseph
2015-02-08
2800 kms and still counting !!! You are one tenacious personality.
Nice pcitures especially of the homestay. The warmth of the household quite evident in the pictures. And I notice a lot of greenery in the photos, the richenss of the north east beginning to show.
Asha
2015-02-09
2800 kms?! Absolutely amazing that too a lone driver ..... You take a bow sir !!
and enjoy NE. Fill us with stories and photos especially am waiting to see the beautiful sunrise pics of AP, cloud pics of meghalaya and many many picturesque places.
Suja
2015-02-09
Ramesh!!!! 'ugh' as a word associated with Switzerland? How could you? Think of the sensibilities of your swiss resident readers!!!
And you passed Jaldapara and didn't stop? Seeing the rhinos in the wild there was a highlight of my last trip to India as you seem to remember (I do like being called distinguished, if you say it often enough I might even believe it :) . And yes of course I am happy to share my experiences with your readers..(https://sujaa.wordpress.com/2014/04/06/incredible-india/ scroll down till you see the prayer flags).
I'be been to Gawahati some 26 years back..I remember a scary ride on a little plane from Kolkata. Lots of natural beauty within hand's reach..I am sure you'll enjoy your rest day!
And yes, liking your pics. The bridge shot is lovely :)
indigoite
2015-02-09
@Ravi - Thanks so so much. With you watching my back, what worry do I have :)
Oh yes - Shaitan Singh. The hero and 9th recipient of the Param Vir Chakra. The battle of Rezang La is an immortal battle. But its in Ladakh; not Arunachal.
The battle you probably refer to is Tongpen La - the hero Joginder Singh and the 8th recipient of the Param Vir Chakra. That's in Arunachal, No way to even think of going there in February and in any case, its off limits to civilians. For sure, I'll make a big salute to Joginder Singh from the nearest point, and there's another battle story I want to mention. Watch this space :)
indigoite
2015-02-09
@Vincy - Thanks. Yes, the scenery from here will be great. I am useless with a camera, but will try and capture at least something
@Asha - Yes, some of the places will b beautiful. I'll try with photos although I am hopeless at it
@Suja - Ahhhhhh ; The ugh was for twerking, not for Switzerland. Would I throw a barb at the wonderful Swiss lady :)
I am seeing the rhino in Kaziranga; so gave Jaldapara a miss.
Malini
2015-02-09
The mighty Brahmaputra! A legendary rivers that when looking at a map your fingers cannot resist tracing from its origins in the rarefied air of the Tibetan plateau until it empties into the Bay of Bengal. Will you have a chance to travel on the river itself ? Having never been to that part of the country eagerly looking forward to detailed updates. And very curious about the reference to ‘Ramamritham’ paperwork to travel further.
Malini
2015-02-09
An interesting piece of trivia about the Brahmaputra that I read somewhere - it is the only river in India with a 'male' name. I have no way of verifying this, but seems plausible.
Ravi Rajagopalan
2015-02-09
Ramesh I stand corrected. I am right about the temple though. I take it you will be visiting the Tennis Court at Imphal?
indigoite
2015-02-10
@Malini - Yes one of the most picturesque rivers in the world. There is a cruise on the Brahmaputra, but it is unbelievably expensive So I shall contend myself by crossing it many a time, traveling by it with one "scary" ferry ride coming :)
I didn't know that trivia. Could very well be true. I'll ask round on the origins of the name - there must be some story there.
@Ravi - Tennis court at Kohima. Inshallah .....
Anne in Salem
2015-02-10
"Ramamritham" - I assumed it was some sort of reference to bureaucracy. Are you sure his mission in life isn't to make miserable us poor? India's bureaucracy has a reputation of requiring much financial lubrication.
Take care and be safe.
indigoite
2015-02-10
@Anne - That too , yes ! But you can fight the financial greasing by remaining steadfast and simply refusing to pay.
Vinod
2015-02-11
Again, a pleasure to see your pics of the great Brahmaputra. Wonder how much damming the Chinese have completed on the river and what is the impact of it along its course both in China and India..
indigoite
2015-02-12
@Vinod - Its not yet a big issue, but will be in the future. Thankfully, the Brahmaputra is not easy to dam; its a ferocious river.
Shachi
2015-02-12
I've heard the story about Brahmaputra being the only river with a male name - would love to learn about the origin of its name!
And that bridge pic - were you mimicking Sriram clicking with the camera in one hand and the steering wheel on the other?
indigoite
2015-02-13
@Shachi - While most rivers have female names, there are some other rivers with male names too - Damodar, Rav, Bima etc. But as to why Brahmaputra is male, I don't have a clue.
Vinod
2015-03-09
I have travelled on a boat along the Yangtze from Chongqing in central China to Wuhan Shangha on the East Coast of China and crossed the mighty Yangtze and immediately drew parallels with the impact the Three Gorges Dam on the Mighty Yangtze has had on the flora, fauna of the region and displaced humans, culture and history along the catchment areas of the dam forever. It isn't unique to the Yangtze or the Brahmaputra, it would hold good for any big river on which civilizations have depended.