TravelArk 2.0

Kamakhya Temple

Tuesday, February 10, 2015
Guwahati, Assam, India
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The Kamakhya temple is an old temple. Although it is said to have been there from ancient times, the current temple is dated to 1565. As is the case with many Hindu temples, it has seen destruction and rebuilding several times in the ancient past.

The temple is of Shakti , in the form of the mother goddess Kamakhya
The main gopuram
The main gopuram
. There are actually ten goddesses worshipped here in seven separate temples, but the main deity is Kamakhya. Its a very popular temple drawing big crowds and is the premier Hindu temple in the North East.

It is located on top of the Nilachal hill which offers a panoramic view of the city of Guwahati. The drive up is a nice short drive offering great views of the city. I went there fairly early to catch the least crowded time. The lines were long any way (its always long and is upwards of an hour's' wait at the minimum). Famous crowded temples are not my favourite and I don't attempt to pay the special entry fee to reduce the wait. I simply found a corner to sit inside the temple complex and spent a quiet little time.

A good feature of this temple is the total absence of heckling by the pandas (priests). They do not even approach you. They are there and available should anybody wish to engage their services, but otherwise they leave you alone. That is wonderful.

Assamese women have a tradition of bright coloured sarees ; yellow and red being the predominant colours. So its a colourful spectacle of devotees.

As is customary in India, no photos are permitted from inside the temple.

 I had mixed feelings about the temple. Animal sacrifice is carried out by the devotees, chiefly goats. I never disparage the religious practices of anybody, for after all devotion is a very personal thing, but for me the sight of small goats being led was not comfortable. I stayed only a little time at the temple and returned back.

Tomorrow, I leave Guwahati and proceed further in to Assam and then to Arunachal Pradesh. From now on, internet connectivity is going to be a challenge and I won't be able to post daily. But wherever I find connectivity, I'll post, for your company on the trip is something I deeply cherish.

Kaziranga is the next stop.
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Comments

A virtual traveler
2015-02-10

I tell ya, am so glad you are doing this journal ... This might be one of the gazillion places on this lovely planet that I might never get to in the remaining third of my life and, therefore, to experience it through a friend is enjoyable ...

BTW, am glad you parenthetically noted that pandas means priests, before the ferengis started imagining that you are in China feeding bamboo to the pandas before they were hauled out for animal sacrifice ;)

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indigoite
2015-02-11

Ha Ha A "panda" sacrifice ???? Might not be a bad idea in say Puri, where they are virtually rakshasas:)

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Anne in Salem
2015-02-11

You have not mentioned, nor does your picture show, the ubiquitous street salesmen I encountered in every city, at every site, on my trip. The worst were those selling selfie sticks, an object I had never seen before. Relentless, aggressive, obnoxious. Does India not allow them?

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Asha
2015-02-11

Oh got a virtual glimpse of the most famous shakti peetam in NE. Thanks to you.
I have heard much about this shakti peetam. My extended family and MIL were here last month. Glad to see some of the pics of the temple and that Assami saree is called Mekhola. And thanks for that lovely shots especially of the trinket store path way. Love such pics showing a vibrant India.

Drive on.....we are following....

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Vinod
2015-02-11

The Temple, the statues,carvings,, the lamps and even the street leading to the temple are so identical to the once we see in the south. How would these forms have been influenced and did it flow from the North to rest of the country or from the South upwards. We see similar structures in almost all countries in SE Asia where Indians have set foot. It is said that the Nagas moved south and spread out in South India and that is why they have similar names in the South and worship snakes! Never been able to validate that though.

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Deepa
2015-02-12

We lived in a place called Lekhapani (Assam and Arunachal Border) for about 2.5 years after Bengal. My school was in a place called Margherita. There are some beautiful tea gardens around that place too. Quaint and beautiful. I am not sure how it looks like now but it was sparsely populated and plain beautiful.

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Vincy Joseph
2015-02-12

as always a lovely narrative. and truly appreciate your unwaring commitment to take us along, to keep us posted about your travel.
you havent mentioned about the weather there? cold, cloudy? are you enjoying it ?
hungry for more pictures :-)

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indigoite
2015-02-12

@Anne - Oh they are everywhere, but they can spot from a mile that I am not going to buy anything and leave me alone. What's a selfie stick ?? I hope its not what it appears to be !

@Asha - Wow that's a lot of distance for your mil to go to a shakti peet. Now you have to go too :)

@Vinod - Not sure, but cultural influences always intermingle and travel far.

@Deepa - Wow you've been around. I'll go close to Margherita, but not to the town. I'll yell your name as I pass by :)

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indigoite
2015-02-12

Thanks Vincy. Its just pleasant where I am, but the coming week is going to be in really cold places. Shiver shiver.

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Shachi
2015-02-12

I should send my dad here - he will avoid temples in general for fear of being coaxed by the priests and bazaar people outside of the temple. He would love it if left alone to ponder. Isn't that what you go for anyway...some peace of mind?

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Anne in Salem
2015-02-13

Selfie stick - a wonderful invention, to be sure. (Do you sense the sarcasm?) It holds one's cell phone at a distance of approximately 3' so the owner can get more of the background in his selfie. I have not determined how the stick pushes the button on the phone. I think most of the salesmen took one look at me and sensed I have an archaic phone that renders a selfie stick useless.

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Ravi Rajagopalan
2015-02-13

For some strange reason I could not post this earlier - rushing to a meeting so will keep it quick. Read Diana Eck's wonderful book "India - A Sacred Geography". It traces the geography of India through its temples and pilgrimage routes and makes for fascinating reading. Kamakhya is one of the oldest and most sacred spots in the country and marks the eastern boundary of the sacred geography. Similarly Hinglaj temple in Baluchistan is in the west (surprisingly still not vandalised by the Taliban and protected by the local residents). Parts of the Devi, Shiva' s consort, are supposed to have fallen all over the land, and Kamakhya was where the Devi's yoni fell - or so legend has it. I am glad you went there.

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indigoite
2015-02-13

@Shachi - Well much closer to "home - Somnath. I remain completely fascinated by that temple.

@Anne - That's what I feared. God Noooooooooooo.

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indigoite
2015-02-13

@Ravi - Oh wow ! I had no clue of this. Thanks for the book tip - must read sometime when I'm back.

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Suja
2015-02-15

Why do stories of temple visits stir me to pack my bags and set off? There is a constant pilgrim within me which loves these stories.. I have the same discomfort at the Kali temple in Cal, I remember seeing the aftermaths of a sacrifice and shuddering at the thought (sacrifice...hmmm..i wonder if i can find content for a nice post for my music blog on that theme...). Enjoyed seeing your pics Ramesh.
BTW Ah another reader of Diana Eck's book amongst your commentators! I loved that book..

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indigoite
2015-02-17

@Suja - Ahh a true pilgrim. But this is not a temple I would recommend. The sacrifice is an issue and I didn't feel the feeling I get in other temples.

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2025-05-23

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