I stayed in Nana and Gebu's house and, with their permission, am writing about the Membas through the experience of living with this amazingly warm family.

The Membas are Buddhists and are the natives of the Mechuka area . They have some similarities with Tibetan Buddhists, but some differences too , since they migrated away from Tibet proper and Bhutan many centuries ago. They have long been considered an advanced tribe - for example they adopted the practice of milking cows long before the Galo or Nyishi did. They grow cash crops in terraced fields. Their population is very small perhaps 5000 in Mechuka and another 5000 in Tuting on the other side of the Siang. They speak their own dialect, but virtually everybody is fluent in Hindi. They have their own script and practice Tibetan Buddhism. But unlike other Tibetan Buddhist towns, you don't see lamas everywhere - in fact I didn't see a single one. Houses are made of wood, and raised on stilts. They are a very friendly , happy people. As I observed in my last post, I am intrigued as to how they have embraced a huge amount of change in such a short period and with gusto.

Nana and Gebu are an amazingly hospitable couple. Their four children are all studying in Along, so the household consists of Rupa and Omu, who are both Nana's sisters and studying here and Gebu's aged father. Ali, a hired help completes the household.

Consider their hospitality. When they learnt that I was vegetarian, they became vegetarians too for the days I lived in their house. Despite my protests, they just didn't cook any meat at all. When they discovered that I was a teetotaler too, the drinks stayed firmly under lock and key . I pleaded with them not to change their daily ways just because I was there, but they simply would not listen.

Everybody can speak English, but are more fluent in Hindi, so we all spoke in Hindi. They refused to let me stay in my room other than just to sleep. We all gathered together around the fireplace for warmth all evening and talked and talked and talked. Normally they don't light a fire everyday because firewood is expensive, but the days I was there, the fire was lit early in the evening and stayed lit as long as I was with them. They were of course very curious about what I was doing and totally floored that I was driving all the way alone. When they learnt that I had lived in China, they plied me with questions about that country and the differences with India. They were completely knowledgeable on both Indian and World affairs - thanks to the TV probably.

Gebu runs a tourist agency and is also a contractor. He is a jack of all trades, spotting any opportunity and taking it . Nana minds a shop - in Mechuka shops sell everything from basic groceries, to hardware items to petrol and diesel ! Rupa and Omu are in senior school but they help with the cooking - when I was there Omu had exams and so Rupa cooked every meal. Ali does everything in the household. The ladies are all addicted to saas bahu serials (soaps on Indian TV), much to Gebu's disgust !

Around the fireplace, it was getting time for dinner. They correctly deduced that I didn't want a table and a chair. We all served ourselves and ate holding our plates. They did the hosting routine perfect - asking me if I wanted more, but not pressing. In a wonderful move, Ali is a complete member of the household - he eats along with everybody, exactly the same food, in exactly the same way. In how many homes in India would you see this ? I was touched. Ali is a Muslim from Assam, but has completely adapted to the Memba way of life so much so that when I wished him "Salaam Aleikum", he struggled a bit for the correct response !

The food was familiar Indian food - dhal, rice and vegetables . They said that was what they ate normally as their food was somewhat intricate and they really had no time or patience to cook it. Their hot drink is however different. The name sounded somewhat like "geesai" - I am not sure how exactly it is written. It is a form of Tibetan tea. Since culinary minded readers have repeatedly asked me for recipes, here it is (as far as I could gather)

Boil some tea leaves in water. When it comes to boil, add milk (and butter milk I think). Whisk it vigorously. Add salt (not sugar). Keep it simmering in the fire place. Drink copious quantities of it all the time. They offered it to me. I took a sip. Lets just say that it is an acquired taste !

In literally two hours after arriving at their home, I was feeling as comfortable as in my own home - I put my feet up and warmed my toes and hands. They told me how their day went, they told me about their way of life and they suggested what I could do in Mechuka. When I asked them if could click photos and write about them, they were quite happy for me to do so. It was time to retire. They plied me with three huge fluffy woolen blankets and I drifted off to sleep in the biting cold, but with a lot of warmth, both physically and in my heart.

Nana and Gebu - thank you for accepting me in your family for a few days. I have rarely experienced such warmth and hospitality. Yours is both the coldest and warmest place for me on this trip. I am humbled by the experience. I wish you well and all the happiness in the world.

PS : I am sending them the link to this post and despite the bad connectivity, they will get to read this.