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Hello Arunachal Pradesh

Friday, February 13, 2015
Itanagar, Arunachal Pradesh, India
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After a short stay in Assam (Guwahati and Kaziranga), I am going up to the state of Arunachal Pradesh. This is truly an artificial state combining a whole host of different people, geographies and cultures into one state – well, isn't that the same with India too . On the west – Tawang and Bomdila, is mostly Tibetan in culture with Buddhism as the religion. This is the more popular tourist circuit, but it is bitterly cold now and in any case its strictly SUV territory; so I am not attempting to go there. The middle region is the Subansiri and Siang districts, extremely picturesque and where I am heading. There’s a whole assortment of tribes here, completely different from each other, with Donyi Polo as the main religion , although Christianity is also prevalent. Towards the east is Dibang and Lohit districts which are extremely difficult to access, so I might give it only a passing swipe. Lets see. Itanagar, the capital of Arunachal Pradesh is actually straight up north from Kaziranga on the other side of the Brahmaputra. But then, the nature of this area is such that straight line travel is virtually impossible. I have to go 100 kms east to get a bridge across the Brahmaputra and then come straight back 100 kms west ! Itanagar by itself is no tourist destination, being full of Ramamrithams, but I am taking a night halt here to avoid a very long journey to my next port of call straight from Kaziranga. We are now in the domain of hills and narrow twisting roads, full of potholes as well. Roads basically end at the Assam border - in Arunachal they are a disgrace. Progress will be slow, but the scenery will be so picturesque that it would be a shame to be zipping ahead. I suppose I shall make frequent stops to drink in the atmosphere and make even slower progress. Who cares. It’s a slow pace of life here.

The other feature of interest in the whole of the north east region, is the time zone
Tea to the left and Tea to the right
Tea to the left and Tea to the right
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. India has only one time zone, but its set to the longitude somewhere in Bihar. We are now well to the east of this. The sun rises at 5.00 AM and sets at 5.00 AM. By 9.00 PM most towns in the region have shut down – last orders for dinner are usually 8.30 PM. Early to bed and early to rise is not just a maxim, it’s the way of life here.

My faithful companion resembled a whitish brown car today rather than a blue one - 20 kms inside Arunachal did that to him ! I had to give some TLC and you can see the result in the photo !
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Comments

Sreekanth
2015-02-13

It has really been a pleasure visiting the North east vicariously through your blog. From the conquering of Ichchapuram to elephantine encounters in Kaziranga, each episode leaves me craving for more! It is indeed sad that we have not been able to develop basic infrastructure in what must be one of the most beautiful parts of the country. A bit about the cuisine and how it changes with a dash of masala in the form of your interpretation would add more spice IMHO.

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Ravi Rajagopalan
2015-02-13

What fun Ramesh. I envy you the time and space you have given yourself. Takes lots of guts.

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indigoite
2015-02-13

@Sreekanth - Welcome to the blog and thanks for your nice comment. Alas, I'm not a foodie. This area is all heavily non veg; so I am making do with basic roti, dal, subzi. When I find an interesting dish, will post :)

@Ravi - Envy or pity as the right emotion, only time will tell !!! Thanks for reading without fail and your wonderful comments. I know how stretched you are, so mighty thanks for this. It makes me feel as if I am traveling with the "string" again :)

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J
2015-02-13

I thought the day in kaziranga alone justified the long drive but looks like there's more excitement in store :) Great stories and pictures - keep them coming. I am so envious....

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indigoite
2015-02-14

@J - There's a long way to go and I hope there will be many a nice moment..

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Vincy Joseph
2015-02-14

I am now wondering how much farther would Ramesh be going. Though i have virtually travelled with you so far, this whole thing looks so unbeleivable and amazing. :-) I havent missed the "him" reference of your companion, i thought it was a "her" :-) :-)

BTW, Happy Valentines day to you!!! You couldnt be in a better picturesque place than the north east for a special day like this. :-)

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indigoite
2015-02-14

Ha Ha. Cars are supposed to be masculine I thought. Wish you a very happy Valentine's day too.

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Asha
2015-02-14

Kudos to you for taking your Sedan on such roads and testing hyundai's endurance.

//Who cares, its a slow pace of life here// is a nice travel attitude. I love slow travel too.

thanks for the write up and pictures......but sad, you are missing Tawang....i think tawang and the glimpse of tibetian culture would have been a memorable take away of NE trip but then one has to travel safe too.

Since you mentioned about slow life in NE, thought of sharing this link http://vikalpsangam.org/article/meghalaya-sparks-of-hope/#.VN8PtuaUfQA......ofcourse you can check only if you have ample net time.

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Malini
2015-02-14

With such beautiful scenery around, you absolutely should take time to smell the roses..ah..I mean tea! Following your progress provides a good opportunity to brush upon my somewhat fuzzy knowledge of the geography of the NE states. Interestingly according to google maps Subansiri is in Assam albeit on the northern side of the river. And it has no clue where Siang district is. Perhaps you will zig into Assam and zag right back to Arunachal?

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Ravi Rajagopalan
2015-02-15

Can you turn on a GPS tracker on your phone and give access to a few people? You have not blogged for a day - I called yesterday and could not reach you.

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Suja
2015-02-15

Reading with great interest as I have never been to Arunachal Pradesh, so great to travel along with you! The photos look gorgeous. Look forward to your next report.

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Anne in Salem
2015-02-15

Today's is an educational post. I have never seen a tea plant, let alone acres and acres. Your meal looks delicious.

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Sandhya Sriram
2015-02-16

Wow Ramesh, i caught up on a series of your blogs only today, thanks to travel pod that stopped sending me email updates, but i think, it was nice this way. it was like reading a book. one at a time is a nice suspense. all at once is like romance, flowing and beautiful.i really am feeling, we are all with you, there in the north east, seeing a new world through your exploring eyes and probably living a journey of a life time virtually. Lovely it is. And Belated Valentine's day wishes. (though i think, you can wish a happy valentine's day - any day of the year :-)), 14th feb is probably more a marketing thing.

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Shachi
2015-02-17

Wondering where you are? a bit worried since you have not posted!

You make a no-nonsense no-expensive-camera-needed terrific travel writer! Thank you for taking us along with you on this journey!

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indigoite
2015-02-17

@Asha - Yes, Tawang is a beautiful place to visit I believe. Not for me this time ; this is a driving visit and that's out of reach. Thanks for the lonk; will browse when I have some decent connectivity.

@Malini - Everything is in Arunachal, and I won't touch Assam for a little while. I'm up north, a fair way from Assam and tomorrow, going further north :)

@Anne - Trust chefmusicmama to notice the food :)

@Sandhya - Thank you thank you thank you !

@Shachi - Awww; thanks for the concern. I am good, just that where I am there's no connectivity at all. Barely can get the mobile to work even for a call

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