Daporijo, Arunachal Pradesh, India
Interesting drive from Ziro to Daporijo. Bad to horrible roads, but great scenery. We are up in the hills and its one twisty, turning drive , climbing one hill, dropping to a valley, climbing another hill and so on and so on. Absolutely deserted with not a soul on the road, an occasional village and an oncoming vehicle only once in 15 minutes or so. No mobile signal throughout the entire drive – after all this is hilly terrain with hardly any human settlement. Took me a good 9 hours to cover 180 kms , but that's how it will be in Arunachal all the way through. Passed a number of interestingly named villages – Raga, Saddle, Laa, Gigi …. What’s this with Arunachal names ?
We’ve crossed Apatani territory and now come into the realm of the Tagin tribe
. They are one of the more important tribes in Arunachal. Daporijo itself is a valley town, really far far away from anywhere and almost cut off. Even a little while ago there was no mobile connectivity at all, until BSNL (a state enterprise) erected a tower. Coverage is patchy, and was completely down when I was there. The town itself is smaller than Ziro – perhaps only 20000 in population, but is actually quite neat by Indian small town standards. As usual, all shops are manned by "outsiders" – mainly Biharis and Assamese (people of two states in India). Its amazing how mobile Biharis are and how they go to work in incredibly far off and remote locations.
This is not a tourist destination, but merely a stop over point to go further. Many tourists follow the same route as I am doing and they are used to seeing foreigners here. There’s an Israeli staying here going in the opposite direction – will maybe catch up with him at dinner. My car is eliciting curious looks – they don’t seem to have seen the KA number plate here before !
As it’s in a valley, its not freezing cold, so some respite before I hit serious cold weather again
. Surprisingly the hotel I am staying is very good. My room is completely disabled friendly. Wide doors, wheelchair access, all sorts of facilities for the disabled in the bathroom, shaving mirror at wheelchair height ..... in all my travels around the world, I have never come cross a room as good as this for the wheelchair bound. This in Daporijo .... ?? Wow !
By the way there was an Apatani wedding at the hotel in Ziro today. But it was a Christian wedding. If it had been a Donyi Polo wedding I would have stayed back for the interesting experience. Apparently Donyi Polo weddings are 3-4 day affairs (very much like Tamilian weddings) and ceremonies in the house go on for almost a month !)Much feasting and rice beer, I am told.
Connectivity will remain a challenge until I return to Assam I think. No photos again, but at least I am able to post text.
PS : Posted just a few photos
The Tagin
Wednesday, February 18, 2015
Daporijo, Arunachal Pradesh, India
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Comments
2025-05-23
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Gung hay fat choy
2015-02-19
Wow ... the odds of having dinner with an Israeli in a deserted off-the-beaten-path "South Tibet" ... now, that is some story to tell if you do connect with the Israeli. Maybe that's what your next post will be about, eh ...
As one who spent a few years in China, and who always has a soft spot for that county and culture, perhaps you are keeping track of the new year observations there ... but then maybe not because of the travel experiences you are immersed in ... anyway, happy new year!
Vincy Joseph
2015-02-19
Your trip sounds a bit scary for me, but from your accounts you seem to be unmindful of the distractions around, including the poor roads and enjoying the travel.
Good you found a great place to stay there – gods angels looking after you well.
Hats off to you Ramesh, after a terrible drive, long day behind the wheel, bad connectivity, you still have time and energy for us and write your travel account straight out of your heart.
You deserve to be ridiculously happy in this trip !!!
Sandhya Sriram
2015-02-20
this really sounds quite exciting. i also like Vincy want to wish you a "ridiculously happy trip" for you to brave such odds to make this trip work. obviously, the photos will come later and we will await them eagerly. I am quite surprised at the disabled friendly hotel, maybe i am being pessimistic, but the only time, some one realizes the importance of thsi is when they have gone through it. so, maybe wondering, if one of the owners or someone important to them was disabled and wanted to set an example to the world.
Suja
2015-02-20
180 kms in 9 hrs!! Oh !!!!!! I can well imagine how horrid the road conditions are. My husband and I always comment about how well the Swiss do it..decent roads in the hilliest and most difficult of terrains. One can drive at 50-60 kms/hr even over mountain passes. Accessibility and communication - seems to me every corner of India should be able to make a big tick for both....
asha
2015-02-20
Ohhh....quite a strenous, backbreaking and solitary drive especially on hilly terrains. But the best part is when you travel by road on your vehicle like this you can have pitstops and enjoy the countryside at your own pace. The journey and not the destination matters when you are at such places. What say?
indigoite
2015-02-21
@ Chinese - How did you get the Cantonese version of Happy New Year !!!! As for the Israeli, I bumped into him in Along again. Will be the subject of a later post.
@Vincy- Awwww - That's the best wish I can hope for. Thanks so much. Its not scary actually - after all I am still in India, speak the language and can look to help to many people if required.
@Sandhya - Very likely, I didn't ask, but that's probably the background.
@Suja - Yes, almost everybody bar th Indians make good roads. Actually in many parts of India, roads are great. Arunachal is a particularly bad example.
@Asha - Totally true. That's why I prefer the drive these days. Gives me the freedom to do exactly as I want and not follow somebody else's schedule.
The Chinese again!
2015-02-22
Lots of friends acquaintances over the years who are from HK. Once, a couple even took us to one of those grand banquets to celebrate the new year ... I, of course, couldn't eat 90% of the courses that kept coming one after another ...
Looking forward to your post on the Indo-Israeli interaction at the Chinese border. Suddenly it seems to be transforming into a James Bond setting ;)
Vinod
2015-02-25
Great that you are trippin' along braving the cold and the roads. Noted your comment on Biharis everywhere. The Biharis , Odishas and Bengalis do all the farming and menial labour in Kerala now. The Mallus are apparently doing other things. Even mahouts are from the East and they are learning the language.